1994 Corvette

OK my key pad does not work at all. So I had the battery in the pad tested and it was good. I also tried to hold down the lock button thinking I some how turned it off...no luck. So then I tired to reprogram the pad. When I get to the step where the light is supposed to flash then bring the pad into range, it never happens. The light doesn't come on at all so I tested the light in the dash and it was good too. So i'm not sure where to go from here. Also the locks work when I hit the switch on the door. Please help me to get this PKE woking again.

 

Check these threads, click around on some links in them. In the last link I posted here there's a troubleshooting guide and further along after the fix a programing DTC guide.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=PKE

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=PKE

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...&highlight=PKE

 

with key in the ignition snd the driver side door open i get no chime so i guess the key ignition switch is messed up. How do i go about fixing this?

 

Yeah, you have to have that working or the thing will never enter program mode. Also the system won't work right either. You could easily lock yourself out with your keys in the ignition. When the system works; if the keys are left in the ignition the locks will automatically unlock when you shut the doors.

I'm tired right now so this will be short.

You have to dismantle the steering wheel, be real careful of the airbag coil when you take that out. Just take stuff apart until you can get to it.

DO NOT slide the switch out with the key inserted or you will destroy it. When you get it out, or down to the contact legs, OHM it out for continuity when you press the spot where the key cylinder arm would push on it. You'll probably find it's "iffy" or just not making contact at all.

 

Any word, 94blue6spd? If you want any more help I'll be around the forum most of this morning and then later tonight.

I couldn't live without my PKE system although others hate it. When it works correctly there's a lot of features a lot of folks just don't know about because they don't read the manual. Not all, some.

 

ok took off the wheel today....checked the switch made contact even checked it with the ohom meter. So that checked out ok. Now maybe the buzzer is burnt out. Any idea where that thing is?

 

1) Do your chimes work when the headlights are on and door open or seat belt is unbuckled when you start the car. If your chimes don’t work at all that could be a separate problem, when did they stop and did the PKE work when you had no chimes?

Notes: (The chime box sits on top of the PKE receiver inside the dash in the middle behind the DIC. The column switch interfaces with the CCM and PKE receiver. If the chimes box does not work, it will not interfere with the PKE. If you have to go into the dash, much work, we can troubleshoot the chimes at the same time)


2) Does the PKE light come on for 2 seconds when you turn the key to ignition on position?

3) Can you get to the point where you enter the programming mode and get a solid PKE light?

4) When you turn the key to off does it start flashing?

5) When the key Fob (pad) is brought into range exactly what happens.

6) It sounds like when you turn the key to off after you get the solid light it does not flash, is this correct? If not please re-state at what point exactly.

When you insert the key the contact (switch) closes in the steering column. If you got to step 3 (above ) successfully the contact in the column would be OK. This can be determined without taking the column apart.

So until it is clear that you have a PKE receiver problem, programming problem or bad Fob, it is hard to go beyond this point. In case we end up at the Fob, I have heard of some cased where they re-soldered the board and had success.

Alot of info in the suggested links.

 

1)Ok I get no chime when headlights are up nor with the open door or the seatbelt.
To be honest with you I didn't even realize the chime was not working. So the PKE could have been workin without the chime I ready don't know.

2)The PKE light doesn't come on for the 2 secs. when I turn the key to ignition on position.

3)I can not get the solid PKE light during the programming.

4)WHen the key is off still no light.

5)When I bring the fob into range I get nothing.

6)The light never comes on at all. I replaced the blub thinking it might be that but I still never got the light to go on.

So basically I never get the PKE light to go on. Also I get no chime. The security light does work as do the door looks. The fob battery is good but the fob does nothing.

So i'm unsure where to go from here?

 

My usual banter on this subject...

This pertains to my 96 but should work for 95, 94, maybe others you’ll have to look and see. I’m assuming you have a known good transmitter. You know how to program it correctly. If not do a search and you should find many tips on it or use your manual.

A few preliminary checks should be done first to rule out anything stupid and not so obvious.

Fuses…
#40 RDO BATT 5A=provides constant power to the module.

#26 PKE 5A=provides switched 12 volts in run, bulb test and start.

#42 POWER LOCK= provides voltage to the indicator bulb and power door lock relays in the module.

If all those are OK you need to make sure your “Key in ignition switch” is working, this is easily tested by opening your door with the key inserted and listening for the warning chime. If no chime is heard you have either a defective switch in the ignition, the chime itself is just dead, or there is a wiring problem between the switch and CCM and/or the PKE receiver.

Now you’re saying, “that’s all good but it still won’t program” You need to make sure the module is actually alive and responding. Enter the diagnostic mode by jumping pins 8 to 5 on the DLC and inserting your key in the ignition with it in “Lock” position. Take your transmitter out of range for this. Do you have any PKE light activity? If NO the module will have to be accessed, if it’s working it should flash DTC 13 (one flash, pause, three flashes) bring your transmitter into range and make sure to move it around shake it, the DTC should change from 13 to either 14 or 15.

14 is good, it means your transmitter isn’t programmed or has a bad battery. (Unlikely since you can’t program it anyway.)
15 is bad, you have some system the CCM is looking at that isn’t in a ready state, door lock switches, courtesy light switches on the doors etc… you need to figure why the CCM isn’t happy. You’ll need the service manual for this there’s no way to figure it out without it.

In the case of no DTC’s the module just isn’t ready for some reason, you need to access the module by removing the dash cap. It isn’t that hard; don’t cut apart your dash frame inside behind the radio to get to it that’s what hackers do. Do it right and pop the dash off it’s only a number of screws.

You will see two boxes in the middle of the inner dash velcro’d together. The PKE receiver module is the one underneath. It can positioned to gain access to the terminals but it’s not easy.



Check all the inputs the thing needs in order to work…

A1=Ground, BLK wire.

A4=will go from 12 volts to 0 when you stick the key in the ignition. LT GRN wire.

A5=PKE fuse input, switched 12 volts. PNK wire.

A6=LH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. GRY/BLK wire.

A7=RH door ajar, 12 volts with door closed, 0 with it open. BLK/WHT wire.

A8=RDO fuses input, should be 12 volts at all times. ORN wire.

C=Lamp indicator, ground this BLK/ORN wire and the indicator should light.

F=Power Door Lock, hot at all times. ORN wire.


Your module may have some broken connections where the connectors finally make their way into the PCB of the module. It can be taken apart easily but re-soldering the connections isn’t so easy. The board has a coating on it for protection, you have to dig through the stuff in order to re-solder things.

I’ve included a picture of the pin outs from the receiver for reference and aid. Do yourself a favor and buy the Helms service manual. Even if you can’t fix your PKE with it you’ll need it for many other things.

I’m sure this isn’t all inclusive but it should help solve many problems folks have.

 

Take my advice, it is not worth the trouble of repairing it. I had the exact same symptoms as yours with my '94 and went through the trouble of replacing the PKE module and tone generator. It lasted about a year before it quit working and gave me all sorts of problems ranging from the door locks actuating themselves randomly to the hatch opening itself randomly.

It is an inconvenience to not be able to open the hatch remotely, but if you are not having any other problems, I would leave it as is.

 

Well you have a point. I am also familiar with the PKE causing strange problems or just not working right. But there are many that have the system working right and likening it, like me. That doesn’t mean we should rip the thing out or be negative on it. Sounds like you might have been thru the wringer on it and can understand your personal opinion.

However, I have been battling a ridiculous brake problem on my 94 that should not even be happening with some strange symptoms also. It’s really putting me thru the test and think about possible solutions and work on it to much. But that doesn’t mean that I am going to rip out the brakes. There are many others that have normal functioning brakes.

If I can just get my brakes to work as well as the PKE (just got done fixing it), I would be real happy.