Hey guys, I was hoping you all could help me out with this one. I've been experiencing an intermittent Low Coolant light since I bought the car back in June. I had taken it to the dealer soon after and was told that the sensor the sets the code was loose. The dealer adjusted, and the problem went away for about 4 days. Sure enough, it came back.

The light only comes on under acceleration, when the motor goes above 1900 RPM. It will shut back off when I reach cruising speed (< 1900).

I have been checking pretty closely for leaks, and had not found any until last week (showed up real good on my parent's new driveway :( ) There were 2 small drops under the front of the car on the passenger side. After further inspection, I found some white specks on the underside of the hood right above where the upper hose connects to the radiator. I also found a few white drip marks right around where the host connects. I could not see anywhere it was split. The clamp was a bit loose, so I tightened it down.

I've checked the coolant level since I've had the problem. The level has not really appeared to go down at all. I've also noticed that the coolant level doesn't really fluctuate much, whether hot or cold. The hot and cold line markings on the reservoir would make me think that this should not be.

The only guess I have is that there is a small leak around the upper hose is inhibiting the vacuum effect of the coolant being pulled from the reservoir under acceleration. I would also like to find out where the sensor is (can't seem to find it in Haynes) so I can check that as well.

One other thing...the car runs about 4-6 degrees cooler on the highway :confused: My operating temp seems to be fine, between 188 -192 on the street and 196 - 198 on the freeway. I've currently go a 160 deg stat and the fans adjusted for 180.

Sorry for the long description, but I figured if anyone could help it would be you all What do you guys think??

Thanks,

Scott

 

They are fussy! Repair all the leaks, make sure the clamps on the hose from the tank to the radiator are tight and leak free. It may take some time for all of the air to be purged from the system. I sprung a leak at a hose and changed my coolant on the road, after the repair it took three weeks before the light went out and stayed out.

 

I had this same problem... Open the cap and start the engine... Look in and see if water is moving while car is running cold... If it is, replace thermostat... If not, let it run until you see the water start moving (warmed up)... Once it is full, cap it and shut it down...

That should be it... Have to fill it open and at temp and stopped mine so assume it will yours too...

 

You should fix all leaks and purge the system of air. Start the car with the radiator cap off and get the engine up to operating temperature. You will then see the the coolandt flowing in the radiator. Reve the engine slowly to approx. 2000-2500 rpm. You will then see the coolant level drop. While the engine is reving, add coolant to top off the system, and replace the cap. Then let the engine idle. This should fix the problem.

 

Thanks for the responses guys! :cheers: I'll give it a shot when I get home next weekend. I'm guessing that I need to add coolant to the cap and not the resovoir after removing the cap. I have noticed that when I loosen the clamp, I can hear water gurgling in the system...I've just kind of guessed that it's going back into the resovoir. Do you purge the air out of these at the water pump?

Thanks,

Scott


[Modified by Hurricane_777, 1:17 AM 9/10/2001]

 

There is a bleeder screw in the water neck mounted to the water pump. Loosen it a bit and you will hear the air coming out till water squirts out. Are you sure the water pump isn't leaking through the weep hole. I had marks on the hood above the a/c compressor and found my pump leaking very slightly.

 

Correction.. water should be flowing through the pressure tank... just not throgh the radiator.