I want this unit out of the car--sick of it going off when I have to reach in and unlock the car, doesn't sound nice anyhow while beeping. Does this unit use the vehicle horn for the noise or is there another horn somewhere that beeps..? thanks
85 vette, where do I start to remove this?

 

bump...this couldn't be difficult is it? just a little box that is wired into car...

 

Try removing the 10amp in-line fuse from the Multi-Use Center, behind the DIC.

 

not sure where either of those are, multi use center ? DIC ?

 

Center Dash area, above the Radio and HVAC controls is the DIC (Driver Information Center. This is where your Security, Brake, Check Engine, Door Ajar, etc. lights are located. With trim removed as if you were going to remove the Radio, you'll see a few screws that fasten the DIC. Behnd the DIC is the Multi-Use Center. This is where the Horn Relay, Hazard Flasher, Starter Interrupt Relay, etc. are located. You'll also find a 10amp Anti-Theft Fuse. Remove it.

 

ohhh ok, thanks Ray

 

I was wondering is it the same in an 87 convertible. My alarm will work fine for a week or two then next time you unlock the door it will start going off. I had to un hook the horns to just to beable to drive it. I tried unlocking the door, putting the key in the ignition, but nothing worked the horns just kept on hooking. I think there is something wrong with it because the car would still start and drive but it would click in the dash for about 2 min after you opened the door.

 

No. In 85, the alarm is powered off the horn fuse. If you want to keep your horn, you'll have to just unplug the alarm module. It's behind the ECM, mounted at a 45deg angle. You'll have to remove the hush panel to get to it.


But since I had it handy, here's everything behind the DIC panel.

 

Terribly sorry about that. I was sure the '85 was the same as the '84. Again, my apologies.

 

Speaking of this subject. would this completely disable the VATS, or can I (using that cool diagram posted above) short out a few of those relays, etc?


Reason asking, I have done the VATS bypass from my lock cylinder to fix my bad lock cylinder or key, or whatever the issue was at the beginning of the year.

Yesterday when leaving work, the VATS had kicked in somehow. Luckily I was able to wait it out 5 mins and it started right up.

I am sick of this system as well and I have a feeling it will only get worse.

Would removing the above mentioned fuse disable this system? or is there other things I will need to also do?

VATS is the most horrible thing to ever plague the C4's and other 80's GM vehicles (my dad had non stop problems in his 89 Camaro too)

anyway...

 

Sorry Joe, but the info CC gave is for the '84-'85 only. These cars have no VATS and the Theft Deterrent System is used to cause a no start condition if the alarm is triggered. The Starter Interrupt Relay uses the NC (Normally Closed) contacts to route power to the Starter Solenoid. The Theft Deterrent Module energizes this relay to kill power to the Starter if the alarm is triggered. With the module disconnected, the relay can't energize and the starter will turn completely bypassing the Theft Deterrent System.

Your '89 has VATS and is different so disconnecting the Theft Deterrent Module will do no good for your problem. You have a Starter Enable Relay in place of the Starter Interrupt Relay. This realy is wired with the NO (Normally Open) contacts connected to the Starter Solenoid and is energized by the VATS Module to allow power to the Starter when the VATS Module is satisfied the proper key has been inserted. The VATS Module supplies a ground to the Starter Enable Relay. The Green wire at the Starter Enable Relay can be tied to ground to bypass this part of the VATS, but the VATS Module also provides a square wave signal to the ECM to enable fuel. To bypass this part, you either need to supply the correct square wave signal to pin B6 of the ECM or have a new PROM burned with 10h subtracted from the value at 0014, causing the ECM to ignore the signal at pin B6 and always allowing fuel.

 

wow.

I think ill do the wire bypass stuff, then (hopefully having this done soon) I am having a new custom chip burned. I will definately ask them to subtract what you mentioned out of it.

Thanks for the help!!!