I've been reading past posts into the night. I had a problem with my dash cluster and I think I may have somewhat cured part of the problem to some degree. My dash lights were very dim, would spontaneously go completely off, and would not dim with the dimmer switch. I read an article about checking the ground strap that runs from the rear of drivers side cylinder head to an area on the frame near the battery for corosion. I decided to take the job on because it made sense to check for a bad ground. So I took out the winshield wiper motor, and like a contortionist removed the bolt that holds the ground strap as well as a few other ground wires. The strap on that end looked okay but when I removed the battery to access the other end of the strap (which I found that I really didn't need to but made life much easier) I found that the end that mounted to the frame was badly corroded. I removed the strap and put the ends on a wire wheel to clean them up. I then reinstalled the strap to the engine side first (had to feel my way, couldn't see it) then I decided to ground the other end to the lower brace bar near the battery by drilling a small hole and using a self tapping bolt. I then put everything back together, and started the car. The dash lights lit up very bright and it also worked with the dimmer. I thought I was all set until they just when clear out. When I tapped the bezel lightly they came back on, then would go on and off. Could this be the plug on the back of the cluster that may be loose? I read on another thread that one of the pins may tend to heat up and unsolder itself? Can anyone give me any kind of insight to this? At least I know the cluster isn't bad, right? All gauges and tach functioned nicely when it was working. Any help would be appreciated, naturally. Thanks!!! Malo

 

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Let me type this yet one more time. The cluster has two circuit boards that plug together with a single row of pins on the front board to a socket on the rear board. The end pin closest to the center of the circuit board carries the lamp current and this current flowing through the resistance of an age relaxed spring on the socket causes enough heat to unsolder the pin and the dash backlights become intermittent or go out. The solution is to solder a small piece of insulated hookup wire from the pin to the socket. Resoldering the pin will not cure this problem. I did this 10 years ago in my 87 and have had no trouble since and I drive my 87 everyday.