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I have a '93 LT1 & Brakes are weak. When braking hard the "SVC ABS", "SVC ASR", "BRAKES" lights all illuminate and stay on ("BRAKES" light goes out after a few sec and doesn't stay on). After turning the car off and then turning it back on, the lights go out.
I bought the service manuals at Carlisle and started reading through the brakes section. The manual says that those lights go on after the low fluid switch is tripped in the master cylinder. My fluid level isn't low though.
Is it possible that I have an air bubble inside one of the brake lines? I'm thinking that maybe the air bubble is being pushed into the master cylinder and causing the lights to go on, which would also be the reason for weak brakes.
On a side note- I have an LT4 Hotcam, but many people have said that it shouldn't effect the booster vacuum enough to cause horrible brakes.
Thanks in advance for any info. You guys are great
Last edited by Darkgh0st; Aug 28, 2006 at 06:25 PM.
I had my lights come on once and checked the fluid level and did not look low. I filled it more (had room) and it resolved the problem. Mine eventially set a code which I cleared thru the computer. The sensor just liked the fluid real full... at least on my car.
Off hand it sounds like 2 sepeate situations here. The weak brakes and the lights. If the adding fluid resoves the lights from coming on, then you can concecrtate on the weak brakes.
It sounds like you might have joined the rest of us with the C4 braking problems.
Is your master cylinder working correctly? Brake booster ok? Both checked out by my mechanic and he said they are both good. The vacuum line to the booster was checked but not measured
I checked for codes and there are none. The pedal is stiff. Brakes feel like they are 80-90%. When testing w/ panic stop, the brakes will not stop the car very well. You almost need to put both feet into the pedal as hard as you can and even then it's not too good.
Can't even come close to locking up the brakes or having ABS kick in. Also the lights I mentioned in the first post come on until the car is restarted.
Brakes are at their worst when the car is first started. Don't know if its because the pads are cold or because the vacuum pressure isnt there yet.
Last edited by Darkgh0st; Aug 29, 2006 at 10:10 AM.
I had my light come on once and checked the fluid level and did not look low. I filled it more (had room) and it resolved the problem. The sensor just liked the fluid real full... at least on my car.
Good to know. Maybe Ill have the entire system flushed and refilled to the very top that I can get in there.
Based on the above discription of your panic test, I would like to also point at your booster.
When my booster went, the petal was very stiff, and didn't seem to stop the car very well. I never had a dummy light trip, though.
What sucks is that the 93 booster (and - I believe all standard C4s) is plastic. You get a crack, and it is done for. Ask around and see if you can get your hands on a ZR1 metal booster, with two blatters. You will have to do a little modification inside to make it work, though. I believe that the push rod is shorter.
2006 seems to be the year of the bad brakes. My problems are similar. I replaced the booster = no difference. Measured the vacuum going to the booster and it was only 12 psi (10 with the AC on). This is with a retarded Hotcam. I bought a vacuum canister from Summit = no difference. I'm going to pull the Autozone booster and see if I can get my money back and by a GM booster. My ABS/ASR are also squirlley, but that's a different problem. If worse comes to worse, I'll stick with manual brakes and hope that I don't have to make an emergency stop.
2006 seems to be the year of the bad brakes. My problems are similar. I replaced the booster = no difference. Measured the vacuum going to the booster and it was only 12 psi (10 with the AC on). This is with a retarded Hotcam. I bought a vacuum canister from Summit = no difference. I'm going to pull the Autozone booster and see if I can get my money back and by a GM booster. My ABS/ASR are also squirlley, but that's a different problem. If worse comes to worse, I'll stick with manual brakes and hope that I don't have to make an emergency stop.
Very interesting. I see so many people with brake problems just like ours and they keep replacing all of the suspect parts and still can't fix it. Man this is getting discouraging.
Is your master cylinder working correctly? Brake booster ok? Both checked out by my mechanic and he said they are both good. The vacuum line to the booster was checked but not measured
Ghost, Buy a set (four) of speed bleeders and do a complete fluid flush and replace with Valvoline synthetic. With speed bleeders, its a 20 minute job and you will be able to tell the difference immediately.
2006 seems to be the year of the bad brakes. My problems are similar. I replaced the booster = no difference. Measured the vacuum going to the booster and it was only 12 psi (10 with the AC on). This is with a retarded Hotcam. I bought a vacuum canister from Summit = no difference. I'm going to pull the Autozone booster and see if I can get my money back and by a GM booster. My ABS/ASR are also squirlley, but that's a different problem. If worse comes to worse, I'll stick with manual brakes and hope that I don't have to make an emergency stop.
Why would you retard the cam? Do you mean advanced? That did nothing but make the manifold vacuum worse. ADVANCE the cam and you'd get more vacuum AND more usable power, down low.
Thanks for the help everyone. As per the suggestions, I've decided to flush the brake lines and change the pads before I go any further. I will keep you posted with the results
Why would you retard the cam? Do you mean advanced? That did nothing but make the manifold vacuum worse. ADVANCE the cam and you'd get more vacuum AND more usable power, down low.
How do I do that? This was an out-of-the-box, un-speced cam.