C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Im adding a vortech supercharger

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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 01:44 PM
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Default Im adding a vortech supercharger

Well I finally purchased a kit (used) for my car. I have been going back and forth over this or nitrous. Had really decided to go with nitrous when I came across a great deal on the SC kit.
Anyways, if any of you would be so kind to look at my signature and let me know what you think about adding this kit I would appreciate it.
Just to add to this, I just ordered a set of 30lb injectors about 3 days ago. Not sure if I can use them with the fmu or not.
Again, thanks in advance.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 02:01 PM
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How many psi do you plan on running?
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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well for now, somewhere between 5 to 8. Hopefully.
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 06:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
well for now, somewhere between 5 to 8. Hopefully.
Due to the belt routing on the crank pulley on the '93, that model year was the hardest to get boost. Good luck with your ventures.

Aaron
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Old Aug 31, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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That Hot cam might not be your best choice as a cam for that SC. But,your combo was built way before this idea took charge. Hope you install a larger,more friendly cam to suit that Vortech. GOODLUCK and keep us posted!
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 12:25 AM
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with SHINOBI-X you may have a little too much cam for a supercharger... i'm running a 218 / 228 due to CA emissions... If you are running about 8 pounds you will probably need an FMU... as you would probably need to end up with an effective equivelent of ~ 42 pounds. Yes I ran 30 pounders for a while with the FMU you can still use them...

You didnt mention about forged rods or pistons... they are a major plus. You can run the stock pistons and rod but you really need to be careful...

I would also suggest investing in a water alky injection system as well. There are a lot of good benefits using one.

You can contact greg@blowerworks.net for pricing on one... Many folks use his system...

Good luck on you project

Mo
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 04:33 AM
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Originally Posted by AKS Racing
Due to the belt routing on the crank pulley on the '93, that model year was the hardest to get boost. Good luck with your ventures.

Aaron

Aaron, could you give me a little more details about this. I was looking on Vortechs site, and it appears they use the same brackets, blower, etc. for 92-96. The main difference I found is the 92-93 orig. came with injectors, and the 94-96 did not. Then there is the difference in the air intake housing due to the 92-93 being speed density, and 94-96 being maf.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 04:36 AM
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Originally Posted by SHINOBI-X
That Hot cam might not be your best choice as a cam for that SC. But,your combo was built way before this idea took charge. Hope you install a larger,more friendly cam to suit that Vortech. GOODLUCK and keep us posted!

Yes, I understand a blower cam would be better suited for the car and eventually I want to rebuild the bottom end. At that time hopefully a better cam will be used.
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Old Sep 1, 2006 | 04:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Mo_Bandy
with SHINOBI-X you may have a little too much cam for a supercharger... i'm running a 218 / 228 due to CA emissions... If you are running about 8 pounds you will probably need an FMU... as you would probably need to end up with an effective equivelent of ~ 42 pounds. Yes I ran 30 pounders for a while with the FMU you can still use them...

You didnt mention about forged rods or pistons... they are a major plus. You can run the stock pistons and rod but you really need to be careful...

I would also suggest investing in a water alky injection system as well. There are a lot of good benefits using one.

You can contact greg@blowerworks.net for pricing on one... Many folks use his system...

Good luck on you project

Mo


Right now, my tune was done with stock injectors. Would this be as simple as installing the 30lb injectors, setting the constant in the programming to 30, then use the fmu that comes in the kit, along with the crane boost retard to get the fueling right? Or should I try to get it on a dyno somewhere?
At this time I am running the stock bottom end, other then the cam change. I was hoping to get it up and going for a little while on the stock bottom end. This is not a daily driver, I only put about 2,000-3,000 miles on it a year, but the car has 106,000 on it now.
Hopefully this winter I can start putting together a shortblock with forged pistons, rods, crank, and a better suited cam.
Thanks for the water injection idea, I will check into that as well.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:46 AM
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I'd say you'd definately need the fmu with 30's. Your car runs pretty strong n/a, so with the addition of the blower, you'd be running a really high duty cycle. Before you even put the blower kit on, I'd definately talk to greg and have the bracket modified for the additional idler pulley. It is 100% worth it. Without it, belt changes take about 3 hours. Keep in mind in the future if you change pullies, you'll need to swap the belt too. The only other recommendation that I would give is to use as tight of a belt as possible. With the stock kit, I was using a 50.7" instead of a 51". The extra couple tenths made a difference as far as belt slip is concerned.
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Old Sep 3, 2006 | 12:47 AM
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+1 on the alky injection. I love it!!! 10 lbs and full timing here.
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Old Sep 4, 2006 | 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 93 ragtop
Right now, my tune was done with stock injectors. Would this be as simple as installing the 30lb injectors, setting the constant in the programming to 30, then use the fmu that comes in the kit, along with the crane boost retard to get the fueling right? Or should I try to get it on a dyno somewhere?
At this time I am running the stock bottom end, other then the cam change. I was hoping to get it up and going for a little while on the stock bottom end. This is not a daily driver, I only put about 2,000-3,000 miles on it a year, but the car has 106,000 on it now.
Hopefully this winter I can start putting together a shortblock with forged pistons, rods, crank, and a better suited cam.
Thanks for the water injection idea, I will check into that as well.
hey 93 ragtop,

Yes you would put 30 in the constant, and yes at this point I would use your FMU, then you can dial in your PE based on what your FMU is doing once you are into boost... to be able to go with uot the FMU you would want to be in the neighborhood of about 42 pound injectors...

This of course depends on how much boost you are making. A place to start would be about 1 degree per pound of boost until you see where things are... I strongly urge you to get a like PLX wideband O2 and a boost gauge and a fuel pressure gauge... they are invaluable... The water injection is the BEST investment I made... I was able to pull back fuel and timing, on my stock block system I would guess it netted me an additional 50-75 hp and reassurance I was not knocking. I had about 106K miles on mine when i added my supercharger. For occasional "romps" you are probably good... however it only take a second or two to punch a piston. I'm just being upfront with you that it is important either by dyno or logging software to know what the knock is... The FMU and the Crane with retard with certainly help...

hope this helps... feel free to contact me if you have questions...

Mo
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Old Sep 5, 2006 | 03:17 PM
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Hey Qwiketz and Mo, Thank you for the info. Running a supercharger is all new to me so I have been reading everything I can about it. This obviously is not going to be a weekend job for me to install Im going to have a bunch more questions and I do appreciate everybodys input!!
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