Dead Clutch
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
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From: Hanover Ontario
Dead Clutch
Ok so its now brutally obvious that the clutch in my car is almost dead. It's still the original from the factory so I figure that it has served me well. My question is this: I would like to keep driving the car for the next month of decent weather that we have here in Ontario and replace it during the winter when I can't drive the car anyways. Will driving the car with a worn out clutch cause any more damage to the rest of the car or is it no big deal?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
My thoughts...
...if the clutch is slipping alot then it could overheat and explode or just overheat and break apart. That would leave you stranded. It could also ruin an otherwise good flywheel by increasing the number & depth of hot spots.
Are you having issues with slippage and or gear changes? If you are having issues with gear selection then you may want to consider what exactly is happening to the internals of the transmission. Gear clash and or the inability to smoothly engage any gear will result in undue wear to the blocker rings and the syncronizer dog teeth. That is the kind of wear that you don't want to have happen for too long at all. That kind of wear will lead to tranny rebuilding.
Another thought...how are the hydraulics...master & slave & hydraulic line?? If they are going out to lunch, they will create shifting difficulties also.
JMHO
Tom
Are you having issues with slippage and or gear changes? If you are having issues with gear selection then you may want to consider what exactly is happening to the internals of the transmission. Gear clash and or the inability to smoothly engage any gear will result in undue wear to the blocker rings and the syncronizer dog teeth. That is the kind of wear that you don't want to have happen for too long at all. That kind of wear will lead to tranny rebuilding.
Another thought...how are the hydraulics...master & slave & hydraulic line?? If they are going out to lunch, they will create shifting difficulties also.
JMHO
Tom
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Ontario
Thanks for the reply. I'm having no trouble at all as far as actual gear changes. The biggest issue at this point is that the clutch only engages at the very top of the pedal travel and it seems to always be engaged a bit. If I punch the accelerator, then it just revs as though the power is leaving the engine and not making it to the ground. I really want to be able to drive the car for the rest of September to take advantage of the weather and fix it after this but if it will result in more damage maybe I'll just park it now. Any thoughts???????
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
My thoughts
My 90 is the only C4 I've ever owned and it is the only car I've ever owned with a hydraulic clutch system....only other vette was a 72, straight mechanical linkage for the clutch.
I know clutch slippage in the extreme will eventually fry the disc, cover(p/plate), and flywheel. I believe all C4's have a dual mass fly wheel and they are expensive, like over $600.00, and they have a service life of about 100k miles. You may want to factor that into your thinking.
I would urge you to check on the condition of the clutch hydrulic system as "the clutch grabs at the top & always seems to be slightly engaged" troubles me a bit. Okay maybe not a word for word quote but I think I got the salient points. That could point to bad hydrulics also and should be checked. I would say to visit zfdoc.com for info on the hydrulic system. I believe your trans & the one in my 90 are different but the facts about the hydrulic system should apply to your year C4 just as well....unless I'm totally mistaken.
Tom
I know clutch slippage in the extreme will eventually fry the disc, cover(p/plate), and flywheel. I believe all C4's have a dual mass fly wheel and they are expensive, like over $600.00, and they have a service life of about 100k miles. You may want to factor that into your thinking.
I would urge you to check on the condition of the clutch hydrulic system as "the clutch grabs at the top & always seems to be slightly engaged" troubles me a bit. Okay maybe not a word for word quote but I think I got the salient points. That could point to bad hydrulics also and should be checked. I would say to visit zfdoc.com for info on the hydrulic system. I believe your trans & the one in my 90 are different but the facts about the hydrulic system should apply to your year C4 just as well....unless I'm totally mistaken.
Tom
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 121
Likes: 0
From: Hanover Ontario
Hydraulics...
So I checked the hydraulic system and it looks as though there is some water in the system. There doesn't appear to be any leaks within the system but, obviously, water got in somehow. I replaced the master clutch cylinder about 2 years ago and it looks to be fine. Is there a way to figure out how the water could have entered the system? It seems pointless to bleed the system and refill it, if I'll have the same problem again in a week.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 3,284
Likes: 51
From: Jacksonville, FL
St. Jude Donor '08 thru '26
I guess it could just be absorbed thru the cover on the reservior? I think that the ECM is on top of the master, at least it is on my 90, and that blocks any direct water contact?
I would think that the GM clutch fluid is similar to brake fluid...it will absorbe some over time? You could suck it out with a turkey baster and just refill the reservior...do that until all the water is gone. Or you could bleed out the system using new fluid, like a flush, till you are sure you got all the old stuff out. If your slave has the bleeder at the 6 oclock position just open it while keeping the level in the reservior covering the opening at the bottom so no air gets in.
Tom
I would think that the GM clutch fluid is similar to brake fluid...it will absorbe some over time? You could suck it out with a turkey baster and just refill the reservior...do that until all the water is gone. Or you could bleed out the system using new fluid, like a flush, till you are sure you got all the old stuff out. If your slave has the bleeder at the 6 oclock position just open it while keeping the level in the reservior covering the opening at the bottom so no air gets in.
Tom
