I just got hold of a Dana 44 yesterday. Before I install it is there anything I should order before the install while it's out to make it stronger and avoid having to drop it again later?

 

add a mid-plate...basically a 1/4'' flat plate made from 6061-T651 alum or steel with a hole for the ring gear and bolt holes as req'd...the plate goes between the case and the batwing...reduces distortion of the assy to maintain clearances and prevent gear bind...you can use a D36 batwing to compensate for the plate thickness (minor redrilling of the D36 batwing is req'd) or mod the body mounts if you use the D44 bat...local machine shop made mine, i've never seen a vendor.

 

This seems a bit strange to me...
1. Looks to me you just moved your driveshaft forward a 1/4 of an inch.
2. The batwing bolts have a 1/4 less thread to engage, or did you use longer bolts ?

No matter how you slice it... This seems to defeat the percieved benefit you are implying. Longer bolts do not add strenth imho, unless they are a higher grade and torqued to a higher torque.

Got any pictures ?

 

Install polly bushings on everything and be done with it.
Most say they only last about a year ,I am on my second year and all is fine.

 

They say a D44 will only last a year? If thats the case I couldve stuck with my 36 lol.

 

I just paid for it and brought it home. I'm happy to have finally got my hands on one. On the case it's stamped 3.54. What Vettes got the 3.54's stock?

 

What speedo gear should be used for the 3.54 gears?

 

1. C-beam sets driveshaft length and location of differential, neither change...batwing moves rearward if you use a D44 bat, stays oem if you use a D36 bat....if you use a D44 bat, the relocation of the tie rod mount is inconsequential
2. i used a D36 bat, with D44 bolts..thread engagement is satisfactory... longer bolts would have NO effect as these are operating in tension and clamping force is the only concern... moment does not apply...increasing bolt torque is not recommended due to possibility of case thread failure ( although possible if heli-coils are added to case)

this is not a ''percieved'' benefit, it is a proven method used in high-torque industrial gear reduction units.
if you look in the FSM, at procedure for removing the internals from the differential case, you will note a warning to not stretch the case more than .010''...that warning is important because the case is easily deformed...now visualize a plate resisting that same ''stretching'' force ...or squeeze your starbutts coffee cup with and without the lid on it and see how the open end deforms, and the rest of the cup with it...two cups bolted together (like the dana case+bat cover) is still far less rigid than a plate at the opening.

i don't have a plate loose right now for pics, but can get a pic of the cardboard template if you need it

 

Use a grey, 15 tooth drive gear, part number 8642620, with a green, 42 tooth, driven gear part, number 25513049, for P255/50R16 tires, or a purple, 43 tooth, driven gear, part number 25513050, for P275/40R17 or P315/35/R17 tires. If your present driven gear is 40 or more teeth, use your VSS, as is. It it is less than 40 teeth, the VSS is a different part number. I can't guess which VSS without an application. More often than not, if your driven gear is less than 40 teeth, you can rotate your VSS 180° to make the gears fit.

RACE ON!!!