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Alot of people hate this transmission because it does not hold up to the power they are making. I have been very LUCKY. I put in in caps because I am smart enough to realize that luck is sometimes a big part of the equasion. As many of you know, I build them and race them as a hobby. Without bashing anyone or any company, share the horror stories and broken parts. Pics are good if you have them. I am especially interested in broken hard parts and the power it takes to snap them. Unfortunately, I do not have the budget to build enough power to tear up my own trans, in the name of r&d.
I am very interested in focusing my attention on the weak links I have not found yet
Hey Pete I am considering one of yours trans. I am making 350 to the wheels now with 450 in the future. Which trans would you suggest. I am 7 hours away and would consider driving down for an install with a converter from your buddy. What would you give me for my stock 4L60 and could you install down there. PM me and I will give you a call this weekend.
Alot of people hate this transmission because it does not hold up to the power they are making. I have been very LUCKY. I put in in caps because I am smart enough to realize that luck is sometimes a big part of the equasion.
Luck is overrated. Have you ever noticed how often the usual winners at the track get LUCKY? The good get luckier more often than the rest. HUMMM, maybe it really isn't so much LUCK, after all.
Pete, Jeb had my car pulling 389 hp at the wheels with my current tranny slipping. Here are some parts from what it did to the first trans. I want to eventually add about a 250 shot at the track, but it sure doesn't seem like a 700 will handle it.
Pete, Jeb had my car pulling 389 hp at the wheels with my current tranny slipping. Here are some parts from what it did to the first trans. I want to eventually add about a 250 shot at the track, but it sure doesn't seem like a 700 will handle it.
Perfect. This is what I am looking for.Show me the carnage!
The parts shown are the rear planetary and the lo roller clutch assembly. I have heard of the snout snapping off the planetary, but it is rare. The lo-roller clutch breaking so violently suprises me. It is quite strong. Luck was not with you. I almost suspect a bushing failure caused improper lubrication to the back of the trans resultion in the breakage. Thanks for posting. If anyone has more please post them as well. Everything I can learn on this thread can help me do a better job down the road.
Hey Pete I am considering one of yours trans. I am making 350 to the wheels now with 450 in the future. Which trans would you suggest. I am 7 hours away and would consider driving down for an install with a converter from your buddy. What would you give me for my stock 4L60 and could you install down there. PM me and I will give you a call this weekend.
Thanks
FredK
Fred,
The trans I have listed in the 4 sale section (listed as Hardcore) is, in my opinion, slightly overbuilt for your needs. Nothing wrong with overbuilt. I would recommend the same components in your trans. I appreciate that you may want me to do it, and would be happy to. If something changes, and it is more convenient for you to do locally, use that parts list. It is quite complete and is what I would use in my own car. I will pm you on the weekend.
Pete, it did this to the Dana 36 w/3:54s before the tranny failure. I saw your post in the for sale section and was wondering if that tranny could handle my 396?
Pete, it did this to the Dana 36 w/3:54s before the tranny failure. I saw your post in the for sale section and was wondering if that tranny could handle my 396?
The toughest motor I have in front of my transmission is a 540 hp and 625 ft lb(at the flywheel) 434 small block in a 92 firebird.He runs slicks and cuts 1.525 60' times. His trans has tan clutches and does not have the high rev springs. He is currently at the end of his 3rd race season with no issues. I intend to refresh it this winter. I want to see what is starting to hurt. The trans I have for sale is built much better than Tom's f-body trans.
With that said, I feel I could look you square in the eye, shake your hand and tell you it "should" easily take the power you are making. All I can honestly say is, if it were my car(with your 396) I would expect it to work well.
That is a roundabout way of saying- It should!
I don't want to jinx myself, but I haven't touched my trans in the 5 years I've raced it, but then again, the engine is still stock, only change was to a 2800 stall converter and I added a trans cooler.
Mojo, how's the driveability w/ the 2800? a couple of friends advised me that anything over 2500 owuld be irritating to drive. I'd sure like to hear from one w/ experience driving it like you have.
Mojo, how's the driveability w/ the 2800? a couple of friends advised me that anything over 2500 owuld be irritating to drive. I'd sure like to hear from one w/ experience driving it like you have.
Thanks,
Steve
*if this ia a hijack..... apologies.
Steve,it's not a hijack. Any trans info that is tossed in this tread is appreciated. Keep it coming. Talk to you saturday
You'd hardly know you have a high stall converter.
The car behaves very well on the street. I drove it to Bowling Green this year, on my crab trip and to Carlisle with no issues at all.
With the 3.45 gears and only overdrive(not double OD like the 6 speed) I'm only getting about 360 miles per tankful(actually about 17 gallons).
You'd hardly know you have a high stall converter.
The car behaves very well on the street. I drove it to Bowling Green this year, on my crab trip and to Carlisle with no issues at all.
With the 3.45 gears and only overdrive(not double OD like the 6 speed) I'm only getting about 360 miles per tankful(actually about 17 gallons).
The beautiful part about a lock up converter is that stall becomes a non issue once the converter locks up. On the highway and locked up, a 5000 rpm stall will yield the same fuel economy as a 1000 rpm stall. Same heat generated and same efficiency when they are locked.
Without bashing anyone or any company, share the horror stories and broken parts.
When I was 16 I rebuilt a 700R4 for my 69 Chevelle, open diff, street tires. I used the B&M complete rebuild kit set for the second level of shift firmness...I think out of a possible 3 levels. It was over 10 years ago. Anyhow, it worked great for 3 weeks and then on the 1-2 shift I snapped the 2-4 band lug (the one in the VB). Just a mild SBC so I rebuilt it the same way again and the same thing happened within 2 months.
I probably messed something up during the rebuild but that's my story of carnage.
For what it's worth. Last year I had my 700R4 done by a local guy who does alot of trannys for drag racers. I was concerned about the toughness of the 700R4 and when I told him my mods and and an estimate of my HP he just smiled and said "If you double the HP I'd still not worry about a warranty issue" In other words he believes the 700R4 is a solid tranny if built right with attention to the details. Not the best drag racing tranny but a good tranny for our cars.
When I was 16 I rebuilt a 700R4 for my 69 Chevelle, open diff, street tires. I used the B&M complete rebuild kit set for the second level of shift firmness...I think out of a possible 3 levels. It was over 10 years ago. Anyhow, it worked great for 3 weeks and then on the 1-2 shift I snapped the 2-4 band lug (the one in the VB). Just a mild SBC so I rebuilt it the same way again and the same thing happened within 2 months.
I probably messed something up during the rebuild but that's my story of carnage.
I have not seen that happen yet. I will look very closely at the band pin when I do the rebuilds. If I see hairling cracks, or some other warning sign, I will look into new replacement pieces. The more I think about the B&M shift kit, the more I regret installing them. Although they have been good to me, locking the accumulators seems to strain the drivetrain pretty hard.
For what it's worth. Last year I had my 700R4 done by a local guy who does alot of trannys for drag racers. I was concerned about the toughness of the 700R4 and when I told him my mods and and an estimate of my HP he just smiled and said "If you double the HP I'd still not worry about a warranty issue" In other words he believes the 700R4 is a solid tranny if built right with attention to the details. Not the best drag racing tranny but a good tranny for our cars.
Actually I meant above the valve body, not in but you seemed to catch my drift about the band anchor pin. I found the B&M manual that I used to rebuild it and the second level seems to have been RV and towing so actually I most likely did the highest level because it was titled "street and strip"
Looking over the directions, it had me replace the 1-2 accumulator spring that looks like it fits under the piston with 2 spacers (3/8" + 3/4") that went on top of the piston. That was the only thing I think I could think of at the time that was causing it to apply the band so violently. I ran a trans temp and a trans pressure gage...they had been normal.