C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

700r4/4L60 question

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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 01:14 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
I have not seen that happen yet. I will look very closely at the band pin when I do the rebuilds. If I see hairling cracks, or some other warning sign, I will look into new replacement pieces. The more I think about the B&M shift kit, the more I regret installing them. Although they have been good to me, locking the accumulators seems to strain the drivetrain pretty hard.
Pete I don't have any pictures of carnage, but the inside of my 700R4 (1993 LT-1 coupe) was a mess. It was almost like the the friction material and metal created a paste or putty in some areas. The sleeves in the valve body were virtually seized in place. I got another valve body from one of the parts houses that I use.

Also found a cracked TCC solenoid (snout), no thimble filters in the valve body, and a butchered 1-2 throttle valve sleeve and bore.

As you know I have been rebuilding my unit for the past 2 months. Thanks for all of the information and advice you have given All of my tolerances are within the specs you recommended, and I am very confident that the outcome will be over the top.

I just bought a B&M kit today, and read the instructions. I am a little uncomfortable with replacing springs with spacers, espically with the 2-4 band apply nightmares that I have been reading about. I am running a stock LT-1, and will refresh my tranny when I decide to increase horsepower. Do you recommend that I use the Heavy Duty performance level, or the street level? BTW I put a .500 boost valve in, bigger reverse boost valve, 29 element sprag, all new bushings, torringtons, oil cooler, 2025 RPM stall.....
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 03:43 AM
  #22  
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I have had problems with the 700r4 and the 4L60E.
My end result is .Don't put a trans kit in the valve body.Use the Trans go plate and don't drill any holes in the valve body.I would add the springs and crap.
All I know is ,for me they don't hold together.687 HP 577 TQ.
I have a D44 but I do take the time to TQ the C-brace to 49 front and 59 rear ,Havent broken yet!!!
60' 1.48 to 1.60.I have broken the 3-4 clutches without a kit and not 1-2 .
Installed a trans go kit from a local trans shop which my buddy ownes and he races also.
The trans go kit took out 1-2 gear and not 3-4,he installed the extra steels and up graded the clutches,and all that crap.
I bought a trans from Monster in Fla.I ran the trans down the track 18 times and took out the 1-2 gear.The car launched and as I shifted into 2 nd gear it went,No first and second 3-4 still good.
The trans from Monster is a reverse valve body and up graded clutches 5 gear sprag ,steel drum , shaft, x clutches.
I have a 3500 stall .I sent the trans back and they installed the GM 5 gear sprag and the first trans had the after market 5 gear.
The trans wines loud when you decelorate.I don't know if you have ever done this? but being leary for the big bucks and the quirks to say the least about these transes,I have noticed that if you have the car up on jack stands and put it in gear,just idleing and shift to second gear the rear wheels will come to a complete stop before the tires will go foward .I have only checked this on my manuel valve body trans I have now.
I asked Monster trans about it, I got the flat fore head and round shoulders.I haven't tried this with my 4L60E.
The wheels stopping at anytime when shifting can't be a good thing.
The manuel valve body from Monster has no trans go type kit in it.
The trans shifts real soft and on the launch it is almost like taking off in a plane.All shifts are smooth.On my 4L60E with the trans go kit the trans will jerk your head off,stock engine and trans except for the trans go kit in it.I have purchased the new trans go kit 4l60e-hd2 series-c and it says tq valve body to 50 inch pounds and then to 90-95 inch lbs,that is suposed to make the shifts softer,haven't put it in yet.
Sorry so long,just venting

Last edited by REDC4CORVETTE; Sep 20, 2006 at 03:29 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 04:37 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by miris32
Pete I don't have any pictures of carnage, but the inside of my 700R4 (1993 LT-1 coupe) was a mess. It was almost like the the friction material and metal created a paste or putty in some areas. The sleeves in the valve body were virtually seized in place. I got another valve body from one of the parts houses that I use.

Also found a cracked TCC solenoid (snout), no thimble filters in the valve body, and a butchered 1-2 throttle valve sleeve and bore.

As you know I have been rebuilding my unit for the past 2 months. Thanks for all of the information and advice you have given All of my tolerances are within the specs you recommended, and I am very confident that the outcome will be over the top.

I just bought a B&M kit today, and read the instructions. I am a little uncomfortable with replacing springs with spacers, espically with the 2-4 band apply nightmares that I have been reading about. I am running a stock LT-1, and will refresh my tranny when I decide to increase horsepower. Do you recommend that I use the Heavy Duty performance level, or the street level? BTW I put a .500 boost valve in, bigger reverse boost valve, 29 element sprag, all new bushings, torringtons, oil cooler, 2025 RPM stall.....
I used to use the spacers under the accumuators.Street version if I recall. With a .500 boost valve it will make for some violent part throttle shifts. I have been experimenting with the B&M kits. I install it per the instructions, but use white accumulator springs with no spacers. Make for a pretty nice shift. If it is still desired, you could change 1 or both to the green spring. For the cost of springs and gaskets, it is worth experimenting with. Although transgo makes the better kit, B&M still sells a ton of theirs. Can't beat them for easy of install and price. I currently have one in my car. I am going to build a kick *** trans for my car over the winter and give the transgo a try. Sami85L98 mailed it to me as a gift. Thanks sami
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Pete K
I used to use the spacers under the accumuators.Street version if I recall. With a .500 boost valve it will make for some violent part throttle shifts. I have been experimenting with the B&M kits. I install it per the instructions, but use white accumulator springs with no spacers. Make for a pretty nice shift. If it is still desired, you could change 1 or both to the green spring. For the cost of springs and gaskets, it is worth experimenting with. Although transgo makes the better kit, B&M still sells a ton of theirs. Can't beat them for easy of install and price. I currently have one in my car. I am going to build a kick *** trans for my car over the winter and give the transgo a try. Sami85L98 mailed it to me as a gift. Thanks sami
Thanks Pete. I have heard several refernces to "violent" shifts - are we talking tire-chirping, or neck breakers? I will give the B&M kit a whirl since I already have it, but the next time I tear one down I am going to go with the Transgo products. I will probably have some carnage for you soon because I plan to drive it like I stole it!
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Old Sep 20, 2006 | 09:58 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by miris32
Thanks Pete. I have heard several refernces to "violent" shifts - are we talking tire-chirping, or neck breakers? I will give the B&M kit a whirl since I already have it, but the next time I tear one down I am going to go with the Transgo products. I will probably have some carnage for you soon because I plan to drive it like I stole it!
I would say that they are between tire chirping and neck breaking. B&M's kit was the coolest thing to me @ age 20. Now that 40 is around the corner, not so cool. Use the B&M with confidence. I have had alot of luck with it. I would use the spacer under the 3-4 accumulator and the white spring in the 1-2 accumulator as a starting point. I know it contradicts my previous post, but the more I think about it, I think that would be a better starting point. The shift that is most harsh is the 1-2. That can be firmed by swapping the white spring for the sleeve, or softened up by swapping the white to green.
Beat it like it owes you money.
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Old Sep 21, 2006 | 07:29 AM
  #26  
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[QUOTE=Pete K]I would say that they are between tire chirping and neck breaking. B&M's kit was the coolest thing to me @ age 20. Now that 40 is around the corner, not so cool. Use the B&M with confidence. I have had alot of luck with it. I would use the spacer under the 3-4 accumulator and the white spring in the 1-2 accumulator as a starting point. I know it contradicts my previous post, but the more I think about it, I think that would be a better starting point. The shift that is most harsh is the 1-2. That can be firmed by swapping the white spring for the sleeve, or softened up by swapping the white to green.
Beat it like it owes you money. [/QUO

I remember the neck-breakers too - there's nothing like makin it shift hard when pullling out of your high school parking lot The ladies think you have the coolest car on the planet, and the gearheads are green with envy. But alas, I see 50 coming up, and the brain and body are over in the conservative lane.

I'll go with the 1-2 spring and the 3-4 spacer. Sounds like a reasonable starting point. I can always ease back over to the wild side .

I will PM you later about Sami's offer - I would like to help with his offer. Keep your chin up!!
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