Well, I had the brite idea of using a nitrous solenoid as an electronic boost controller. I hooked it up inline just like you would for a nitrous system, but it isn't working. Here's how I had it

Intake--Solenoid--boost controller--wastegate


I had to put the boost controller inline with it because it has the bleed port to let the boost back out when the solenoid closes. But here's whats happening, I'm not getting any more boost than normal, just like the solenoid was not in there. I've got it programmed with my Accel DFI Gen7 and it is set to go off at 10psi, but I'm not getting more than 5, which is what the boost controller is set at. Its almost like the solenoid is leaking or opening prematurely. There is an indicator light on the laptop screen and it never goes off. And it never should since it doesn't hit the pre-determined boost for it to go off, but I'm not sure how air is getting around it to make it to the wastegate.

Just to make sure that I didn't have things wired up incorrectly I pulled the hoses while it was idling and it was blocking off the intake vaccume like it should. So I'm out of ideas, can anybody help???

 

I see what your trying to do - but my suggestion would be to try what your doing with a fuel solenoid - only for the purose of psi - a nitrous solenoid operates at huge psi compared to the 10 your looking for.

Who knows the fuel solenoid might be the answer, might not but its as easy as swapping the solenoids and giving it a shot.

 

Is the solenoid directional?

 

the point I am trying to make is the operational psi of the nitrous solenoid is to great for this application and the only lower alternative I know of is a fuel solenoid.

 

It is the nitrous solenoid, and I did try it both ways. I origionally had it the opposit way that you use it with nitrous which would put the pressure at the bottom of the plunger and I thought it was pushing the plunger up. But after switching it around it didn't help.

 

Brian, I have made one using the canister purge solenoid. It t'd into the boost line made a "leak" in it. on= high boost off = low boost

 

Brian,

something seems wrong here.. if the nitrous solenoid is not letting boost to the wastegate lower section.. that puppy should scream to the moon.. if it is only making 5 psi.. I wonder if your setup wrong somewhere.. this may also be the reason for your boost problem initially that you had. I was using the silicone hose from autozone the colored when I put mine together the first time and it was splitting and becoming a major issue so I switched to FI rated 1/4" hose and have had rock steady pressures using this hose.. I also switched to fuel rated hose clamps to make sure of perfect sealing on the brass nipples. I think your on the right track but still having issues somewhere else. have you tried disconnecting the wastegate refernece line and rolled into the throttle? be weary trying this because it should spike pretty damned fast.. if its not you are experiencing a leak in your exhaust pre turbo or having turbo problems perhaps due to oiling? check the discharge on the compressor cover.. mine had aluminum dust in it from the compressor wheel hitting the comrpessor cover when oil pressure dropped and the thrust bearing went bad... I misinterpereted this as an ignition miss but now believe that the wheel was stalling from digging into the housing.. which makes sense.

just check these things to make sure everythign else is functioning as it should.

Chris

 

Hey Chris,

You need to clean out your PM inbox, it says you are at your limit. I think its more of a problem with the solenoid not seeling when its shut. I can check it when I'm idling, but when I had just the solenoid it was going at 4 psi and when i put the boost controller inline with it behind the solenoid it bumped it up to 5 or so. This leads me to believe that the wastegate is working ok, but just getting boost when it shouldn't.

I remember trying this when the engine was on the dyno and it sealed off just fine, but it had some issues with the leakout past the solenoid. I'm going to try and see if I can find a cheap EGR solenoid that will do the same thing. But it kind of bothers me that the nitrous solenoid doesn't work.

 

PM box is completely empty now..

 

Well, I'm going to have to get a new solenoid if mine is leaking some how. I was thinking about it and I'm going to use a line lock solenoid set up in exactly the same way.

This will keep it open most of the time and it will then run what the boost controller is set at. But when I need more boost I will be able to hit the button on the steering wheel and that will activate the control to allow the solenoid to close and stay closed until max boost is reached.

I'm not 100% sure about the speed and heat disipation of the line lock solenoid, but I think its a good cheap starting place, and if it doesn't work I can still use it to put the line lock on the car that I need for when I go to the track.

I'm going to have the solenoid turn on under 12psi and over 3k rpm, and off at over 12.1 psi. psi values might need to be adjusted, but I shouldn't need it under 3k so the solenoid won't be on unnesicarily if I forget and leave the button on.

 

Brian just out of curiousity.. instead of trying to reinvent the wheel.. why not get a boost controller solenoid? I am sure you can find one decently priced and they are duty cycle rated for boost? I know my greddy unit is kinda expensive but its because its says Greddy on it.. maybe an XS power unit if they have one?

Chris

 

I looked into getting one of those and they are between $90 and $175 for just the solenoid. So for $40 I can get a line lock one and it should behave close enough for my standards.