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I did some work in the interior of the car and I had to disconnect
lights switch for a while. Now, when I connected it back, I've noticed
a problem with right headlight motor.
Both headlights open/close normally but right motor keeps running
for 2-3 seconds after headlight is open or closed.
What could be causing this?
I'm not sure if this problem was present before disconnecting lights switch.
It's probably your Delrin bushings. They turn to powder over time resulting in operation like you're describing. Check out the C4 TechTips section on this Forum for repair help.
You can order the bushings online from Eckler's or Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
Onedef92 is absolutely correct about the bushings. I just did this job on my '92. It's very simple. You can just replace the bushings or get a new gear as well. I went for both, pretty cheap from Ecklers. One note. In the directions that come with the replacement kit they tell you to back off the 2 screws that hold the motor to the gearbox. DON'T DO IT. This is an unnecessary step, just wiggle the gear out of the gearbox, it will seperate from the worm gear without loosening the 2 screws. The reason I mention this is because in trying to loosen these screws one broke. The kit warns you to not remove the screws just loosen them because if you take them all the way out you will NEVER get it back together. Now my light motor has one screw, hope it holds because a new assembly is NOT cheap! hope this helps.
Sounds like the bushings to me, also. Five bucks for a set of three bushings. Get a set for each side. The kits come with a set of directions with photos. The August 2006 edition of Corvette Enthusiast has a great how-to article on replacing C4 headlight bushings.
As for not loosening the screws: It depends on what type of gear is inside. Believe it or not, I had different gears in my motors. One gear has a ridge, or flange, on the inside edge of the teeth. That is, the teeth are not cut all the way across the face of the gear. That ridge makes it impossible to pull the gear up past the worm gear and out of the housing---unless you loosen the two screws that hold the motor to the gear housing (essentially, a transmission). This will allow you enough play so that you can wiggle the gear past the worm gear. In that case, apply a little PB Blaster to both screws and wait awhile for it to go to work. This is an aluminum housing with steel machine screws that are exposed to the elements---a bad combination. I replaced them with stainless steel (one at a time), after the head twisted off of one and I had to drill out and re-tap the hole. This was headlight #1.
Headlight #2 was A LOT easier. On that one, the gear pulled right out with no problems. It did not have the ridge on the inside edge of the gear, so it slid past the worm gear easily. But, thinking that they were the same (or mirror images), I had Blastered those screws in preparation for another battle. The gear came out easily, so I didn't need to loosen the housing screws like before, but I still replaced them with stainless.
I used white lithium grease on the new Delrin bushings. Also, use a "pin punch" of the right size to tap out the dowel pin. I split the pin while using a nail set (as shown in picture #4, page 73 of C.E.). It took me about 6 hours total. Your time may vary, especially if you don't have to drill and tap.
As to why I have different gears, I don't know. There is no evidence that either motor has ever been worked on. Both failed at the same time.
When I bought my 1990 Corvette, the owner supplied me with headlight motor bushings and metal gears. He told me the headlight bushings were going bad. Little by little, they got worse and worse and pretty soon, one night, they headlights wouldn't flip up. I had to manually raise them and secure them in place with coat hanger wire from a store at a shopping center. Very embarrassed as people in the parking lot watched me.
The bushings in the headlights had turned to something comparable to sand. Seeing that the plastic gears seemed to be made of the same material as the bushings, I replaced the plastic gears with the metal gears. I couldn't figure out how to open the casing containing the bushings, so I took the headlight assemblies to a Corvette shop, and they charged me only half the normal price because they didn't have to remove the headlights from the car or re-install them. They replaced the gears and bushings. -- Eric
I had this exact same problem with my 90'vert imeediately AFTER I repalced the bushings.
Now, over time both headlight motors run after turning on (originally only the one I "repaired' did) now both. Also, If you turn the running lights on, the motors run; also, if I disconnect battery (as I did to do other repairs), when battery is reconnected the motors on both run.
I agree that you should replace bushings in both headlights. I just did mine a few months ago. The bushings in the bad light were dust, the bushings in the good light were still intact but were cracked and about to go. It was an easy job. Use instructions off corvette forum, not the included instructions.
I had this exact same problem with my 90'vert imeediately AFTER I repalced the bushings.
Now, over time both headlight motors run after turning on (originally only the one I "repaired' did) now both. Also, If you turn the running lights on, the motors run; also, if I disconnect battery (as I did to do other repairs), when battery is reconnected the motors on both run.
Something else is going on here.
Advice would be appreciated!!
Sounds like a grounding problem to me. Something aint grounded well.