When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hey guys. how long does it take to actually install the spring, not including the bleeding of the brakes. It seems pretty straightforward but nothing ever goes smoothly in my car when I'm installing things. I'm going to have a buddy who is a mechanic do it, but neither of us know what to expect. Are there any special tools you'd recommend?
I'm not a fan of those springs, but they aren't hard to install. My car's an 86, but I don't think yours is much different. Before you unbolt the master cylinder from the booster, loosen the large nut on the front of the master. You risk cracking the casing or the ears if you try and undo it while the master is off the car or in a vise.
Once the master is off and you unscrew that front bolt, you can see the proportioning valve in the cylinder. It's going to be stuck in there. You will have to bang on the side and back of the cylinder where the proportioning valve is with a rubber mallet. Eventually it should come out far enough where you can pull it out. Be careful not to damage the valve or the cylinder bore.
With the early Vette style masters you don't need to remove it from the booster at all. Just unscrew that main bolt (foremost on the master cylinder). Put a catch can below to catch all the brake fluid and then use a small headed nail to catch in the lip of the valve body. It then pulls out.
From: Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction.
St. Jude '03 thru '24
Like C4Boy said; its kinda tough.
Well.. more like a real PITA!
Getting the proportional valve out is just the first part. Then you have to remove the snap ring which releases the spring. Best to have someone nearby with a rag to keep these parts from flying all over the place. That person also needs to be deaf..
Thank your lucky stars that you'll only do this once....
Hey guys, it's not that tough. I had mine done in 10 minutes flat and had never done it before. I did a write up on it last year. See if you can search it in the archive. I had all the details in it but now I can't remember everything. You don't have to take off anything on a later style C4.
Let me see what I can remember. Remove the low brake switch and wire on the side of the housing. It's plastic so be careful, not much pressure to unscrew and to screw back in. Remove the cap on the end of the master cylinder and pull out the cylinder housing inside. A couple of o-rings hold it in place so it may be a little hard to slid out. I used a small mechanics pick. Be careful not to scratch the inner sleeve. Once you get that housing out, remove the snap ring in the end of it; it's under pressure from a spring so it can be a little tight. Once it is off, remove the spring inside and replace it with the DRM spring. Shove the snap ring back in making sure it firmly locks into the grove because it is under pressure from the new spring. I used a flathead screwdriver that was sized to fit inside the cylinder but yet large enough to firmly push on the snap ring. I guess I was lucky to have a screwhead just the right size to do that. Replace the housing in the master cylinder and put the cap back on, replace the switch and wire on the side of the housing, bleed the brakes.
I had my wife put mine in. After a half hour of me cursing, she took the pick and snap ring pliers away and did it in about 2 minutes.
The first time I tried the spring shot out across the garage. It took me about 15 minutes to find the snap ring and spring again. Second time, only took me about 2 minutes.
Hey guys, it's not that tough. I had mine done in 10 minutes flat and had never done it before. I did a write up on it last year. See if you can search it in the archive. I had all the details in it but now I can't remember everything. You don't have to take off anything on a later style C4.
Let me see what I can remember. Remove the low brake switch and wire on the side of the housing. It's plastic so be careful, not much pressure to unscrew and to screw back in. Remove the cap on the end of the master cylinder and pull out the cylinder housing inside. A couple of o-rings hold it in place so it may be a little hard to slid out. I used a small mechanics pick. Be careful not to scratch the inner sleeve. Once you get that housing out, remove the snap ring in the end of it; it's under pressure from a spring so it can be a little tight. Once it is off, remove the spring inside and replace it with the DRM spring. Shove the snap ring back in making sure it firmly locks into the grove because it is under pressure from the new spring. I used a flathead screwdriver that was sized to fit inside the cylinder but yet large enough to firmly push on the snap ring. I guess I was lucky to have a screwhead just the right size to do that. Replace the housing in the master cylinder and put the cap back on, replace the switch and wire on the side of the housing, bleed the brakes.
That's it. Hope this helps.
man, I'm bummed. i've been digging around the archives for about 30 minutes and I haven't seen anything yet. Anyone know the link? Thanks in advance.