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I get no fuel pressure from my 89.
I went around a conner and when dead.
I've tested and replaced:
Oil Sending unit, Fuel Pressure Relay and Fuel Pump
Check out the fusable link near the battery tested good.
I also tested the Terminal G of the ALDL +12 volts and the pump does not turn on.
If a direct +12v to the tan/wht on the fuel pump connector I get normal pressure(58 psi).
Questions that I have.
Is there another fusable link for the fuel pump? If so where is it?
I have not changed out the module under the cap.
And if there is a broken connection how is the fuel pump wiring routed?
I get no fuel pressure from my 89.
I went around a conner and when dead.
I've tested and replaced:
Oil Sending unit, Fuel Pressure Relay and Fuel Pump
Check out the fusable link near the battery tested good.
I also tested the Terminal G of the ALDL +12 volts and the pump does not turn on.
If a direct +12v to the tan/wht on the fuel pump connector I get normal pressure(58 psi).
Questions that I have.
Is there another fusable link for the fuel pump? If so where is it?
I have not changed out the module under the cap.
And if there is a broken connection how is the fuel pump wiring routed?
Thanks...
You didn't mention the Fuel Pump Fuse. It's in the Fuse Panel on the passenger side dash.
Correct, this is the first thing I thought..fuse 10a. Check it and if good, energize terminal G and check for 12v at the connector at the tank. If no 12v go to the fuse and use a test light to see if there is current there. Disconnect terminal G and take the fuel pressure relay off and use a short jumper wire and insert it into the first terminal and the last terminal of the fuel pump relay connector. Turn the key "on" and if the new relay is bad this will send the 12v to the fuse. You know the pump is working and just not recieving 12v through the circuit. Let us know what you find.
Last edited by RRT vette; Oct 11, 2006 at 08:39 AM.
58 psi????? sounds awefully high to me! Only 1 fusible link runs both the oil pressure switch (backup for the fuel pump relay) and the fuel pump relay. Sounds like you have an open somewhere between the fuse box and the pump.
Looked at your profile MODS alot, so that may explain the high pressure...curious, what size injectors are you running?
Last edited by rick lambert; Oct 11, 2006 at 11:04 AM.
If the pump doesn't run with terminal "G" energized and it does run when you energize the connector at the tank, then it is pretty obvious that there is problem is between the two. The fuse IS between the two, but you say it checks out.
Originally Posted by Coupe89
I've tested and replaced:
Oil Sending unit, Fuel Pressure Relay and Fuel Pump
It is amazing to me that all these parts failed at one time. And STILL the problem exists.
58 psi????? sounds awefully high to me! Only 1 fusible link runs both the oil pressure switch (backup for the fuel pump relay) and the fuel pump relay. Sounds like you have an open somewhere between the fuse box and the pump.
Looked at your profile MODS alot, so that may explain the high pressure...curious, what size injectors are you running?
If the pump doesn't run with terminal "G" energized and it does run when you energize the connector at the tank, then it is pretty obvious that there is problem is between the two. The fuse IS between the two, but you say it checks out.It is amazing to me that all these parts failed at one time. And STILL the problem exists.
RACE ON!!!
All these parts did not fail. I tested and replaced them with new ones that I tested also. Need to get some sort of baseline.
BTY just checked the fuse box with the test light. All power.
So from the fuse box does the wire route its self to the pump or does it go thought the ECM? Dont have the book with me right now
From the fuse panel the wire goes to the pump. Did you test for 12v at the pump connector with terminal G energized? If the fuse is good and it shows it, and there is no voltage at the pump connector...then there is a problem between the fuse and the connector. Looks for insulations shrinking and or bare wires. Also test the ground on the connector. The other wire is for the guage.
(On my 86) The pink wire (ckt 30) goes from the fuel pump assembly to the dash guage. Tan/white wire (ckt 120) is the 12v to the fuel pump. Black wire (ckt 150) is the ground to the fuel assembly/pump.
From the fuse panel the wire goes to the pump. Did you test for 12v at the pump connector with terminal G energized? If the fuse is good and it shows it, and there is no voltage at the pump connector...then there is a problem between the fuse and the connector. Looks for insulations shrinking and or bare wires. Also test the ground on the connector. The other wire is for the guage.
(On my 86) The pink wire (ckt 30) goes from the fuel pump assembly to the dash guage. Tan/white wire (ckt 120) is the 12v to the fuel pump. Black wire (ckt 150) is the ground to the fuel assembly/pump.
The pump does not go on when a 12v is applied to terminal G. I'll rase the car and look under it....
The pump does not go on when a 12v is applied to terminal G. I'll rase the car and look under it....
I understand that. Unplug the fuel pump connector (3 wire connector). Enegize terminal G and use a voltmeter at the connector. Stick the red lead in the tan/white wire pin and the black lead on the ground on the fuel pump assembly. Apparently you don't have 12v there or the pump would run with terminal G. If you don't get 12v check the pins in the connector, the wiring from the connector to the front of the car and check the wiring behind the fuse panel. Wish I was there to help..it would take less than 10 min to find the problem.
EDIT: Wiggle the connector/wires while testing with the voltmeter
Last edited by RRT vette; Oct 11, 2006 at 01:58 PM.
All these parts did not fail. I tested and replaced them with new ones that I tested also. Need to get some sort of baseline.
So why did you waste your time testing parts you were going to replace anyhow? A baseline consists of checking components and replacing the bad parts. You are going to have a lot of money tied up in what would have been a very inexpensive repair.
Originally Posted by Coupe89
Dont have the book with me right now
No matter. You haven't used it yet. Why start now?
So why did you waste your time testing parts you were going to replace anyhow? A baseline consists of checking components and replacing the bad parts. You are going to have a lot of money tied up in what would have been a very inexpensive repair.
True. But I'll have spair parts for later on.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
No matter. You haven't used it yet. Why start now?
RACE ON!!!
I've used it. It doesn't tell me to look behind the fuse box. Nor how the car is wired.
When you directly apply 12v from the battery to the fuel pump connector tan/white the pump will run and supply fuel pressure?
With a hot wire from the positive side of the battery to terminal G of the ALDL and the fuel pump connector is connected the fuel pump does not run?
You have 12v at the fuse panel on the fuel pump fuse (10a) or it lights up with a test light? You should touch both sides of the fuse to make sure the connection in the back of the fuse panel is good and both sides should light up.
Still having terminal G going, you go to the rear of the car and take the fuel pump connector loose. Use a voltmeter on the fuel pump connector that goes back toward the front. You should have 12v there and it sounds like you don't, which means there must be an open in the circuit 120 or a bad ground.
There is a whole parts book full of spare parts you haven't ordered, yet.
Originally Posted by Coupe89
I've used it. It doesn't tell me to look behind the fuse box. Nor how the car is wired.
It doesn't tell you to breathe in and breathe out, either, but when it says to trace a wire or a circuit, it may be necessary to look behind the fuse box. And the Helms, factory service manual certainly DOES tell you how the car is wired. Besides schematics for each individual system, there is a whole car wiring schematic.
Originally Posted by RRT vette
When you directly apply 12v from the battery to the fuel pump connector tan/white the pump will run and supply fuel pressure?
With a hot wire from the positive side of the battery to terminal G of the ALDL and the fuel pump connector is connected the fuel pump does not run?
You should have 12v there and it sounds like you don't, which means there must be an open in the circuit 120 or a bad ground.
That was all covered back in post #7. Except if there were a bad ground, simply running 12 volts to the pump wouldn't make it run either.