Brake Line Help.




This is what I appear to be stuck with right now. Stripped components and seized lines. Just lovely working on a 12 year old car! #@*&!!
So any suggestions. Do Lose my temper and cut it all out and them buy new components?
After that, I give it one or 2 good trys using a flare nut wrench. If the wrench flexes, I get a good grip with a pair of vice grips and that usually does it.
If you destroy the nut, you'll probably be better off replacing the nut and re-flaring the line with a flaring tool than trying to replace the whole line.




After that, I give it one or 2 good trys using a flare nut wrench. If the wrench flexes, I get a good grip with a pair of vice grips and that usually does it.
If you destroy the nut, you'll probably be better off replacing the nut and re-flaring the line with a flaring tool than trying to replace the whole line.
You'll have to cut the metal line (hacksaw or whatever), just behind the nut. take the nut into any autoparts store and get a new one. Slide nut over the hydraulic line then use the tool to flare the line. Good luck.
--Sorry, meant to say cut the line just behind the flare so you can keep the line as long as possible.
Last edited by C4boy; Oct 17, 2006 at 09:24 PM.




You'll have to cut the metal line (hacksaw or whatever), just behind the nut. take the nut into any autoparts store and get a new one. Slide nut over the hydraulic line then use the tool to flare the line. Good luck.
--Sorry, meant to say cut the line just behind the flare so you can keep the line as long as possible.




If so you might not need it, my set of Earl's lins had a nut to hold the line in place.
I bought a cheap set of tubing (I think thats the right name) metric wrenches from Harbor Freight and they mad the line swap very easy.




Thanks for taking the time to chime in. On my Earls Hyperfirm Part # 28A010ERL the flair nut does not appear to fit directly into the bottom of the SS line. I appear to be missing something from my kit? Or I need to reuse something from the OEM set up. I am not sure as this is my "first rodeo" with this corvette SS brake line thing.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Unless GM went backwards to the double-flare, then your lines
will have a metric bubble flare. A double-flaring tool will not
create the correct flare for your fittings.
The proper wrenches for working on flare nuts are, not surprisingly,
called Flare Nut wrenches. You will need metric ones.
For some insight into what it is like to repair C4 brake lines from
someone who has been there:
The pictures, part numbers and links may be helpful.
.




She did tell me to buy a C5. She has a hard time understanding why I want to own something that needs to be worked on?!Of Course, I know this but I needed to be reminded:
1.) Get the right tools for the job. Of course, I did not last have what I needed last night.
2.) Be Patient, read up on what you plan to do before you do it.
3.) Understand the basic way things go together and come apart.
4.) Soak stuck parts overnight in penetrating oil.
I must have been tired last night
. It all looked better this morning. Soaked over night in WD40. I see how it all fits together. Going to buy the things I need. Still have shoulders on the flare nut so maybe I can get it off. Thanks for nudging me in the right direction.
The second one went the same. Got to the third and got out my open end 12 mm wrench and had no problem, as with the fourth. I didn’t quite know what to make of this, was it me.
A few weeks later I bought a 3 wrench set on Ebay for $3 + shipping. I started comparing both sets of wrenches on some 12 mm nuts because I had some more brake work coming up. I found the new wrenches fit tighter and obviously the proper size. The A/Z wrench was definitely larger, at least the 12 mm size. This was a krapy made tool which I returned to A/Z. I then bought a 6 wrench Sears Craftsman set (Ebay) which covers my from 9 to about 21 mm flare wrenches.
My '86 also uses bubble flare lines like Slalom has pictured (I'm assuming your '94 is the same). My guess is that GM went with the bubble flare because of the Bosch ABS unit. The lines, fittings and flaring tools are readily available. I've bought and seen them at Advance. Good luck, let us know how you make out.








1. re-use the old nut and tighten with vise grips. (My car will never be a show car or NCRS item)
2. Redo the brake line with a new nut and a new iso flare on the line.
What do yall think?
his face, money in his pocket and plenty of free time would
snug the fitting up with Vice-Grips and move on.
OTOH, I would hunt down new fittings, buy the ISO/DIN flaring
tool, spend an inordinate amount of time replacing the fitting
in a manner that made the new one look OEM - and then stay
up late to post about it all.
.
Its good to get this out here. So when people are looking at replacing brake lines they don't strip all the nuts and if they do, they now know how to fix them.
P.S. You scored on that Craftsman set!







