C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Brake Line Help.

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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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Default Brake Line Help.

I have a set of Earl's SS brake lines. I have been wanting to install these for a few months now. Tonight I get home a bit early and start phase one of the brake upgrade. Well it appears that a previous owner or his "mechanic" had already worked on the brake lines.

This is what I appear to be stuck with right now. Stripped components and seized lines. Just lovely working on a 12 year old car! #@*&!!

So any suggestions. Do Lose my temper and cut it all out and them buy new components?
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:38 PM
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You didn't specifically say what the problem is. Are your flare nuts stripped? Anytime I touch a nut on a hydraulic line, I hit it with a little WD40 and let it soak. I've seen a lot of guys here recommend PB Blaster for rusted stuff.

After that, I give it one or 2 good trys using a flare nut wrench. If the wrench flexes, I get a good grip with a pair of vice grips and that usually does it.

If you destroy the nut, you'll probably be better off replacing the nut and re-flaring the line with a flaring tool than trying to replace the whole line.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by C4boy
You didn't specifically say what the problem is. Are your flare nuts stripped? Anytime I touch a nut on a hydraulic line, I hit it with a little WD40 and let it soak. I've seen a lot of guys here recommend PB Blaster for rusted stuff.

After that, I give it one or 2 good trys using a flare nut wrench. If the wrench flexes, I get a good grip with a pair of vice grips and that usually does it.

If you destroy the nut, you'll probably be better off replacing the nut and re-flaring the line with a flaring tool than trying to replace the whole line.
You hit the nail on the head. What are the proper tools to do this? The damage was already done on the left front. I want to avoid damaging the other 3 lines. Can I get a flaring tool at Advanced Auto or at Sears?
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:55 PM
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either place sells them. to do it right , get a double flairing tool and a mini tubeing cutter will be helpful.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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Yes, you can get a flaring tool at Advance, I've seen them there for maybe $25 ?. I don't know if autozone or anyone rents them. Here's a few at Sears.

You'll have to cut the metal line (hacksaw or whatever), just behind the nut. take the nut into any autoparts store and get a new one. Slide nut over the hydraulic line then use the tool to flare the line. Good luck.

--Sorry, meant to say cut the line just behind the flare so you can keep the line as long as possible.

Last edited by C4boy; Oct 17, 2006 at 09:24 PM.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:41 PM
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Originally Posted by C4boy
Yes, you can get a flaring tool at Advance, I've seen them there for maybe $25 ?. I don't know if autozone or anyone rents them. Here's a few at Sears.

You'll have to cut the metal line (hacksaw or whatever), just behind the nut. take the nut into any autoparts store and get a new one. Slide nut over the hydraulic line then use the tool to flare the line. Good luck.

--Sorry, meant to say cut the line just behind the flare so you can keep the line as long as possible.
Thanks! I have one more question, what about the piece just above the nut in the brake line? Does this seperate from the OEM rubber brake line? It is damaged also. The Earls SS lines appear to need this piece.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 09:53 PM
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Do you mean the clip that holds the line in place?

If so you might not need it, my set of Earl's lins had a nut to hold the line in place.

I bought a cheap set of tubing (I think thats the right name) metric wrenches from Harbor Freight and they mad the line swap very easy.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 10:29 PM
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Default Missing something.

Jaa1992

Thanks for taking the time to chime in. On my Earls Hyperfirm Part # 28A010ERL the flair nut does not appear to fit directly into the bottom of the SS line. I appear to be missing something from my kit? Or I need to reuse something from the OEM set up. I am not sure as this is my "first rodeo" with this corvette SS brake line thing.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 10:37 PM
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Jakers, you have a '94.

Unless GM went backwards to the double-flare, then your lines
will have a metric bubble flare. A double-flaring tool will not
create the correct flare for your fittings.

The proper wrenches for working on flare nuts are, not surprisingly,
called Flare Nut wrenches. You will need metric ones.

For some insight into what it is like to repair C4 brake lines from
someone who has been there:
The pictures, part numbers and links may be helpful.

.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 10:42 PM
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Honestly, I'm not sure what your configuration or hoses look like. I was speaking generally about salvaging the metal brake lines that come from your master cylinder or ABS unit out to the wheels. Whatever your replacement looks like, I'm sure there's a female fitting where the steel lines will screw into it. New hoses typically come with replacement washers or horseshoe clips if needed.
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 11:11 PM
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From the other thread.

Inverted versus ISO/DIN Flare



.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 09:06 AM
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Default Ok

Thanks to C4boy, Slalom4me, 5pinball and Jaa1992! Thanks for the quick response and the lessons. My wife just did not understand She did tell me to buy a C5. She has a hard time understanding why I want to own something that needs to be worked on?!

Of Course, I know this but I needed to be reminded:
1.) Get the right tools for the job. Of course, I did not last have what I needed last night.
2.) Be Patient, read up on what you plan to do before you do it.
3.) Understand the basic way things go together and come apart.
4.) Soak stuck parts overnight in penetrating oil.

I must have been tired last night . It all looked better this morning. Soaked over night in WD40. I see how it all fits together. Going to buy the things I need. Still have shoulders on the flare nut so maybe I can get it off.

Thanks for nudging me in the right direction.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 12:11 PM
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Default Bad Tools - Who Knew

This year I bought a flare wrench set from Auto Zone (there was a reason) in preparation of changing the flex lines. I could hardly get the lines loose and nearly wrecked my first nut, but had the sense to back off. Was it that tight or something with my tools. I got the vice grips and loosened it with out to much trouble.

The second one went the same. Got to the third and got out my open end 12 mm wrench and had no problem, as with the fourth. I didn’t quite know what to make of this, was it me.

A few weeks later I bought a 3 wrench set on Ebay for $3 + shipping. I started comparing both sets of wrenches on some 12 mm nuts because I had some more brake work coming up. I found the new wrenches fit tighter and obviously the proper size. The A/Z wrench was definitely larger, at least the 12 mm size. This was a krapy made tool which I returned to A/Z. I then bought a 6 wrench Sears Craftsman set (Ebay) which covers my from 9 to about 21 mm flare wrenches.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 12:17 PM
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good luck, you may want to just cut them out and start from scratch
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 01:51 PM
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I agree on the Craftsman flare nut wrenches. I've seen them in Sears and they look like good stuff. I have a few sets and one of them is from a parts store - not the same quality. I've cut up a few combination wrenches that worked well, too. My experience has been, if the flare nut wrench doesn't break the nut loose in the first couple trys, it's going to strip the nut.

My '86 also uses bubble flare lines like Slalom has pictured (I'm assuming your '94 is the same). My guess is that GM went with the bubble flare because of the Bosch ABS unit. The lines, fittings and flaring tools are readily available. I've bought and seen them at Advance. Good luck, let us know how you make out.
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Old Oct 18, 2006 | 05:07 PM
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Default Bought the wrenches

Picked up the flare nut wrenches (5 piece set) for 19.97 at Sears this afternoon. Believe it or not, the wrenches were on the clearance rack!? I guess I got lucky as I had the $36.00 set in my hands at the time. I am going to try and get the line loose again tonight. Wish me luck. I hope to get away without buying the flaring tool...
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 10:02 AM
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Default Got the nut off, however...

Well I got the nut off but I rounded the nut. Now I am debating on how to proceed.

1. re-use the old nut and tighten with vise grips. (My car will never be a show car or NCRS item)

2. Redo the brake line with a new nut and a new iso flare on the line.

What do yall think?
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 11:37 AM
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My well-adjusted friend who always seems to have a smile on
his face, money in his pocket and plenty of free time would
snug the fitting up with Vice-Grips and move on.

OTOH, I would hunt down new fittings, buy the ISO/DIN flaring
tool, spend an inordinate amount of time replacing the fitting
in a manner that made the new one look OEM - and then stay
up late to post about it all.

.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 12:42 PM
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I had a similar experience with a Shucks bought cooler line wrench. The 12mm would open up to ~13-14mm when torqued. Took the @!#$ back and got some craftsman ones and popped the rest off.

Its good to get this out here. So when people are looking at replacing brake lines they don't strip all the nuts and if they do, they now know how to fix them.
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Old Oct 19, 2006 | 01:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jakers
What do yall think?
Clean up the threads, put it back together, and in another 10 years the next owner will have have something to post about!

P.S. You scored on that Craftsman set!
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