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Having never worked on a trans. before this was daunting. But it turned out to be not so bad. It probably took me eight hours. I had to run and get a different snap ring pliers that I ended up grinding down anyways. It only takes a hour to pull the valve body. Putting it back in took a while, I ended up using a small jack to lift it. That thing is HEAVY! The weight wouldn't be a problem if there were not many parts to line up. I used the TCI kit. Don't ever get one that doesn't include a new separator plate.
The car shifts nice! At part throttle it is not harsh, at WOT it'll snap your neck if the tires hook. I'm very happy with it.
The only problem now is with the TV cable. I did the reset procedure and it always resets fully extended. This leaves slop in the cable. Driving it this way results in shifts that are close together and no down shift. If I take the slack out of the cable by pushing the TV pintle half way back, it shifts almost normal. I think I need to tension it slightly more yet. Why does it do this?
Having never worked on a trans. before this was daunting. But it turned out to be not so bad. It probably took me eight hours. I had to run and get a different snap ring pliers that I ended up grinding down anyways. It only takes a hour to pull the valve body. Putting it back in took a while, I ended up using a small jack to lift it. That thing is HEAVY! The weight wouldn't be a problem if there were not many parts to line up. I used the TCI kit. Don't ever get one that doesn't include a new separator plate.
The car shifts nice! At part throttle it is not harsh, at WOT it'll snap your neck if the tires hook. I'm very happy with it.
The only problem now is with the TV cable. I did the reset procedure and it always resets fully extended. This leaves slop in the cable. Driving it this way results in shifts that are close together and no down shift. If I take the slack out of the cable by pushing the TV pintle half way back, it shifts almost normal. I think I need to tension it slightly more yet. Why does it do this?
I had the same problem with a bit of slack in my TV cable on my 82. I ended up adding a couple of spacers in the cable crimp end. Now I get a click or two after resetting the adjuster back and going through the setting procedure. Pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/craigi1968 Double click on the picture to get all the text if it doesn't show up on the right. Not exactly like the C4, but the principle applies.
Last edited by CraigandJanet; Oct 30, 2006 at 07:54 PM.
I had the same problem with a bit of slack in my TV cable on my 82. I ended up adding a couple of spacers in the cable crimp end. Now I get a click or two after resetting the adjuster back and going through the setting procedure. Pics at http://community.webshots.com/user/craigi1968 Double click on the picture to get all the text if it doesn't show up on the right. Not exactly like the C4, but the principle applies.
Push the release tab and inch the cable forward till it suits you.
Push the release tab and inch the cable forward till it suits you.
Sorry, but that just puts more slack into the cable. There should be no slack in the cable at any time. The purpose of the racheting tab is to allow the cable housing to move back beyond where it should be - removing all slack in the cable. Then, opening the throttle to the full open position pulls the cable and the cable housing forward to a preset "setting" (usually a click or two). You should never "adjust" anything. Factory manuals and all trans shop instructions empasize this point. Wow, Eddie! Is that a good looking Red on your Vette!!
Last edited by CraigandJanet; Oct 31, 2006 at 07:49 AM.
You need a new cable. Buy one from the dealer. The aftermarket cables suck. $23 is the price.
Best suggestion. That's what I'm doing this winter after layup. I just wanted to get by until I had a chance to get into it, so the shims really do work for that. Those stacked shifts are hard on things.
Always start with the TV cable being tight at WOT, see how the shifts are, then if need be, back off a click or two, no more than this. You should be able to get a 2-1 downshift immediately after a 1-2 upshift at light throttle, if not then the TV cable needs to be tighter. If you cannot do this (get a 2-1 downshift immediately after a 1-2 upshift at light throttle) without the TV cable coming out of adjustment, then you will need the Sonnax TV cable corrector, and/or if the part throttle shifts are late while still being able to get the 2-1 downshift immediately after a 1-2 upshift at light throttle. They are simple to install (about 5 minutes), and run about $4.00.
Having drove the car a while, I really like the shift kit. I put in the TCI kit, it was really cheap, twenty bucks I think I paid. It wasn't to bad to install. Driving at part throttle, the shifts are smooth like stock, at WOT or a throttle forced down shift, it'll rip your head back. Very nice!
If anyone does this, get a new seperator plate. One does not come with most of these kits, my stock one was very worn at the check ball holes. 100k miles.
Having drove the car a while, I really like the shift kit. I put in the TCI kit, it was really cheap, twenty bucks I think I paid. It wasn't to bad to install. Driving at part throttle, the shifts are smooth like stock, at WOT or a throttle forced down shift, it'll rip your head back. Very nice!
If anyone does this, get a new seperator plate. One does not come with most of these kits, my stock one was very worn at the check ball holes. 100k miles.
I used transgo. A little more involved, a few more parts, and more money but worth it. I think it was $139.
anyone know the correct GM part number for the TV cable for an 85. I was going to order a new one from gmpartsdirect as I am about to have the trans gone through.
anyone know the correct GM part number for the TV cable for an 85. I was going to order a new one from gmpartsdirect as I am about to have the trans gone through.