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Easy enough, but WHY? The 2149 has an O2 bung in the collector and you had to mess up the ceramic coating.
RACE ON!!!
The 2149 has the bung on the #7 primary, NOT the collector.
Also I relocated the sensor to the passenger side. I have a ZF6 trans. Cars with the ZF6 have a slave cylinder where the 2149's collector ends up. The tunnel doesn't give much room on that side. On the passenger side, there is a ton of room. The sensor is heated. Nothing has happened to the area where the bung was welded in.
I installed my own O2 bung like so. Drilled a hole and welded it. 2151's won't come with one. This would be the easiest, least expensive, and fastest route as opposed to what you are considering. Loosing a bit of ceramic coating in that area is not something to worry about. Know where you need to place the hole, so you don't F up. I did a trial fit of the header to know.
note: I don't need a heated O2. My car goes into closed loop just fine as is.
The 2149 has the bung on the #7 primary, NOT the collector.
I forgot. You are right. You were able to weld the bung into the collector without affecting the ceramic coating? Surely the weld isn't coated. Couldn't rust or corrosion start at the weld and progress underneath the coating?
Originally Posted by 86PACER
Loosing a bit of ceramic coating in that area is not something to worry about.
Hooker 2151s don't come coated. They do make a coated version, 2151-1.
I installed my own O2 bung like so. Drilled a hole and welded it. 2151's won't come with one. This would be the easiest, least expensive, and fastest route as opposed to what you are considering. Loosing a bit of ceramic coating in that area is not something to worry about. Know where you need to place the hole, so you don't F up. I did a trial fit of the header to know.
note: I don't need a heated O2. My car goes into closed loop just fine as is.
What happens in 40-50k miles when you need a new o2?
I am getting 2151's ceramic coated and want it on the reducer. Where can I get one already there, because most of the reducers I have seen do not have room for both the bung and the pipe to fit properly.
What happens in 40-50k miles when you need a new o2?
Uh, turn it with a wrench and remove? Seriously, it seems like you think that I welded on the actual sensor solid in place which I did not. It's threaded onto an O2 bung which is welded. This means I can simply remove the O2 with a wrench whenever I need. And it could not be anymore easy to get to.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Hooker 2151s don't come coated. They do make a coated version, 2151-1.
I never said those came coated. I own 2151-1's I know. It was in general refference to your comment which said this:
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
Easy enough, but WHY? The 2149 has an O2 bung in the collector and you had to mess up the ceramic coating.
In 3 1/2 years and having driven it in rain, ect. the loss of some coating in the welded area has not caused any issues. I see no reason for anyone with the coated versions to be concerned.
Originally Posted by CFI-EFI
I forgot. You are right. You were able to weld the bung into the collector without affecting the ceramic coating? Surely the weld isn't coated. Couldn't rust or corrosion start at the weld and progress underneath the coating?
RACE ON!!!
That was my concern several years ago when I installed my FL headers and added the O2 bung. Since doing this, I've driven this car in rain and changing weather conditions both in North Carolina and California in freezing cold and hot summer. The car has seen 6 months of indoor storage, and has been parked indoors and outdoors. The pic I provided shows what it looks like today. So I say don't worry about it. You can always just have that one part recoated if you wanted.
I never said those came coated. I own 2151-1's I know.
And I never said that anybody said that 2151s were coated. I was simply stating fact.
Originally Posted by 86PACER
In 3 1/2 years and having driven it in rain, ect. the loss of some coating in the welded area has not caused any issues. I see no reason for anyone with the coated versions to be concerned.
That was my concern several years ago when I installed my FL headers and added the O2 bung. Since doing this, I've driven this car in rain and changing weather conditions both in North Carolina and California in freezing cold and hot summer. The car has seen 6 months of indoor storage, and has been parked indoors and outdoors. The pic I provided shows what it looks like today. So I say don't worry about it. You can always just have that one part recoated if you wanted.
That is reassuring. I have always been afraid that any breach of the ceramic coating would allow rust and corrosion to get a toe hold, and once it got a start, it would continue to grow. How much time have you spent on salted roads? The photo is pretty dark, but do I see rust coming through the ceramic?
That is reassuring. I have always been afraid that any breach of the ceramic coating would allow rust and corrosion to get a toe hold, and once it got a start, it would continue to grow. How much time have you spent on salted roads? The photo is pretty dark, but do I see rust coming through the ceramic?
RACE ON!!!
The rust is from driving in the rain and not wiping down the headers which would be a hassle. The rest of the headers look excellent. The thin surface rust you see has nothing to do with the bung. It's the same on the other side where there is no bung, again from driving in the rain. Some Nevr Dull helped remove some of it. As to how much time on salted roads, I really don't know to be honest.
What concerns me is rust deep inside right where the primaries mee the collector, were you can't reach. My concern would be that after years, rust can eat a hole through the pipe, trashing the headers. For that, I shot some rustoleum inside there where I can't reach.