Head/Cam Packages
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Head/Cam Packages
(1995 LT1 C4-A w/a 3.07 Rear Axle) Early stages of mapping out what I want to do. It's got 120K+ miles on it so I feel I should start to think about rebuilding (WRIGHT ???)... Any-way my question is concerning the Head/Cam Package kits. I'm wanting to add 100 rwhp and some nice low-end torque....
1. Who offers the best quality for the cost ?
(Advanced Induction http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...TFSAFRLTx.html)
2. Who is all encompassing, Head/Cam/Valvetrain/etc. ?
3. Do I need to change my rear axle to 3.54 or higher ?
4. What about my tranny???
I'm learning as I go, so I hope you wont mind private messages as my questions develop, and yes I'm sure there will be some dumb ones. Thanks...
101st Airborne
1. Who offers the best quality for the cost ?
(Advanced Induction http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...TFSAFRLTx.html)
2. Who is all encompassing, Head/Cam/Valvetrain/etc. ?
3. Do I need to change my rear axle to 3.54 or higher ?
4. What about my tranny???
I'm learning as I go, so I hope you wont mind private messages as my questions develop, and yes I'm sure there will be some dumb ones. Thanks...
101st Airborne
Last edited by Ruff Rider; Nov 22, 2006 at 12:31 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 18
From: Raleigh, NC
This one has been done alot on here, some searching would probably yield most of the information you are looking for.
Lloyd Elliot seems to provide one of the best bang for the buck options out there. Try searching for him on Google or www.cz28.com.
Good luck!
Lloyd Elliot seems to provide one of the best bang for the buck options out there. Try searching for him on Google or www.cz28.com.
Good luck!
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 3,692
Likes: 5
From: Hayward CA
Originally Posted by Ruff Rider
(1995 LT1 C4-A w/a 3.07 Rear Axle) Early stages of mapping out what I want to do. It's got 120K+ miles on it so I feel I should start to think about rebuilding (WRIGHT ???)... Any-way my question is concerning the Head/Cam Package kits. I'm wanting to add 100 rwhp and some nice low-end torque....
1. Who offers the best quality for the cost ?
(Advanced Induction http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...TFSAFRLTx.html)
2. Who is all encompassing, Head/Cam/Valvetrain/etc. ?
3. Do I need to change my rear axle to 3.54 or higher ?
4. What about my tranny???
I'm learning as I go, so I hope you wont mind private messages as my questions develop, and yes I'm sure there will be some dumb ones. Thanks...
101st Airborne
1. Who offers the best quality for the cost ?
(Advanced Induction http://www.advancedinduction.com/AiP...TFSAFRLTx.html)
2. Who is all encompassing, Head/Cam/Valvetrain/etc. ?
3. Do I need to change my rear axle to 3.54 or higher ?
4. What about my tranny???
I'm learning as I go, so I hope you wont mind private messages as my questions develop, and yes I'm sure there will be some dumb ones. Thanks...
101st Airborne 2 - see #1
3- Depends on your goals. Drag racer - go with 3.45's. Street/highway cruiser - stick with the 3.07's
4- Can't help there - I have a manual, and don't know crap about A4's
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 4,030
Likes: 6
From: Maryland
As the others have said, Lloyd Elliot and AI have good names.
That said, how do you use this car? When you change the cam, you have to change the timing chain set and it will be a problem if you want to road race. Honestly, if you track the car on a course, I would keep it stock.
I would leave the diff alone for now. Realize that most of the $ you spend on these endeavors is gone once the work is complete if you decide to sell. If you have a lot of $ invested, you should get collector insurance to protect the full investment, should some idiot run over your car. Of course, most of these policies want to restrict your mileage. If you continue to insure under a regular carrier, then if some idiot runs over your car, they will not give you 1 dime for the mods.
That said, how do you use this car? When you change the cam, you have to change the timing chain set and it will be a problem if you want to road race. Honestly, if you track the car on a course, I would keep it stock.
I would leave the diff alone for now. Realize that most of the $ you spend on these endeavors is gone once the work is complete if you decide to sell. If you have a lot of $ invested, you should get collector insurance to protect the full investment, should some idiot run over your car. Of course, most of these policies want to restrict your mileage. If you continue to insure under a regular carrier, then if some idiot runs over your car, they will not give you 1 dime for the mods.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Originally Posted by sothpaw2
As the others have said, Lloyd Elliot and AI have good names.
That said, how do you use this car? When you change the cam, you have to change the timing chain set and it will be a problem if you want to road race. Honestly, if you track the car on a course, I would keep it stock.
I would leave the diff alone for now. Realize that most of the $ you spend on these endeavors is gone once the work is complete if you decide to sell. If you have a lot of $ invested, you should get collector insurance to protect the full investment, should some idiot run over your car. Of course, most of these policies want to restrict your mileage. If you continue to insure under a regular carrier, then if some idiot runs over your car, they will not give you 1 dime for the mods.
That said, how do you use this car? When you change the cam, you have to change the timing chain set and it will be a problem if you want to road race. Honestly, if you track the car on a course, I would keep it stock.
I would leave the diff alone for now. Realize that most of the $ you spend on these endeavors is gone once the work is complete if you decide to sell. If you have a lot of $ invested, you should get collector insurance to protect the full investment, should some idiot run over your car. Of course, most of these policies want to restrict your mileage. If you continue to insure under a regular carrier, then if some idiot runs over your car, they will not give you 1 dime for the mods.
101st Airborne
Last edited by Ruff Rider; Nov 22, 2006 at 01:29 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
If the trans is healthy, It can take approx 6400 rpm before centrifically applying the clutch packs. If you plan to spin it hard, you may want to get in it and have the hi rev spring kits installed. Under 6500, I would not worry at all.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Originally Posted by Pete K
If the trans is healthy, It can take approx 6400 rpm before centrifically applying the clutch packs. If you plan to spin it hard, you may want to get in it and have the hi rev spring kits installed. Under 6500, I would not worry at all.
101st Airborne
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
Originally Posted by Ruff Rider
The tranny is very healthy, was wondering about quick shift kits though
101st Airborne
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Originally Posted by Pete K
There are 2 common kits. The B&M and the Transgo. $60 vs $120 for the transgo. B&M is the simplest to install and works by locking the accumulators. This gives a hard, firm almost bang shift regardless of throttle position. It is very tough on the rear trans drivetrain pieces, especially the planetaries. The transgo kit is very complex to install, and is not at all recommended for the average backyard wrench. It takes me approx 3 hrs to install one if the trans is on the bench and being rebuilt. I could not imagine going it in the car. The pcm can also be reprogrammed to give quicker, firmer shifts. I have never done this myself though.
101st Airborne
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,695
Likes: 0
From: Chicago Illinois
Ruff rider, your cars going in for a operation this winter and with all your marbles in place it will be a great experience except on your wallet. I went with A.Is 190 full CNC, new ferra valves, 1.6rr, behive springs, 11.3 compression and a small cam. I netted 90 rwhp 50 rwtq. My cam is similar to hot cam with a 110 LSA. A bigger cam would of added even more power. I changed the chain , opti, plugs wires. I would go with 3.73 or 4.10 gear. This car will still be very streetable but you will be faster then 99% of cars out there now. you will have close to 450 chp. Ive dealt with A.I and if you need info from me send me a PM. Glad to help. I love this chit.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 484
Likes: 0
From: Redwood City CA
Ruff rider, your cars going in for a operation this winter and with all your marbles in place it will be a great experience except on your wallet. I went with A.Is 190 full CNC, new ferra valves, 1.6rr, behive springs, 11.3 compression and a small cam. I netted 90 rwhp 50 rwtq. My cam is similar to hot cam with a 110 LSA. A bigger cam would of added even more power. I changed the chain , opti, plugs wires. I would go with 3.73 or 4.10 gear. This car will still be very streetable but you will be faster then 99% of cars out there now. you will have close to 450 chp. Ive dealt with A.I and if you need info from me send me a PM. Glad to help. I love this chit.
