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Well my car crapped out after a minor spark plug change out today. It ran around the block and never restarted once parked. I did put the ohm meter to the injectors. Is this right, the Ohm meter set to 1x and zero'd out with leads touching together ? The numbers are as follows, #1-17 #3-8 #5-18 #7-12,,, #2-16.5 #4-17 #6-9 #8-20 Ohms. The injectors are another problem. I will address the car not starting in another thread.
Kodavette has seen a GM service bulletin that indicates the resistance should be 16.5 +/-.3 ohms. I have changed out the injectors in my 89 and know others that have had Multec problems. The resistance has always been in the 16 to 17 ohm range. A reading of less than 16 ohms indicates that injector coil is starting to short out. Good luck with this problem. I suggest you try and keep the same injector rating when you get new parts. For your reference, here is what the GM Multecs look like:
Will 21.5 lbs compared to my present ones make at 22 lbs. make a differance in performance ? Probally anything working right is better than the multecs working bad. I dont want to shortchange myself.
Will 21.5 lbs compared to my present ones make at 22 lbs. make a differance in performance ? Probally anything working right is better than the multecs working bad. I dont want to shortchange myself.
No difference in performance but more than likely a difference in drivability. Assuming one or more leak and have a short in the coils. There are different brand injectors out there. Look around and make a choice and report back what you are look at getting... for feedback (good/bad). The FSM's should be a good choice. 21.5lb/hr and 22lb/hr are about the same, no difference if any.
Example: Stock injectors for my 86 are 21.6lb/hr and is accepted at 22lb/hr.
Yep, the majority of those are shot......and probably the cause of your no start...they're most likely flooding the hell out of it, bet your new plugs are fuel foulded now.
Thanks for all the info guys , one more thing.... Does the Ohm readings change if the car is hot or cold ? These readings were made on a cold engine. Looking for injectors now. Will stay in touch.
I tried a new set of Bosch's in my 1991, and it ran great. I just couldn't get over the clatter they make. It sounded like I had a solid lifter cam in the car. I went back to the Multitechs, and I got them from FiveO, no problems now, and the car runs like normal.
Thanks for all the info guys , one more thing.... Does the Ohm readings change if the car is hot or cold ? These readings were made on a cold engine. Looking for injectors now. Will stay in touch.
....change hot vs cold reading. Usually if the coil's insulation is at fault the hotter (more the car is driven) the injector gets the worse the electrical fault makes evidence of itself. The reading should be taken cold and hot to get a pictuire of what is happening, that's what the FSM says about ohm testing. The most common cause of the coil shorting is the methanol in today's gas. The OEM GM injectors were not designed with the use of methanol accounted for so the epoxy that insulates the coil windings degrades with time causing a short that gets worse once the situation starts to happen.
Just in case you go with GM replacements be aware that there is some question that GM actually changed anything to address the methanol's effect on the coils of the replacement parts with respect to the specific model yr vette the replacement part is desiginated for. I think that is the reason that most replace injectors using parts other than GM's.
For yours an FMS (ford/bosch)22# should be a good choice, check summit racing for prices.
Originally Posted by RRT vette
And stay away from Multecs there are not a good injector. Five0 has a policy of charging $35.00 to return bad injectors and you pay the shipping see their website for info. Some members have had problems with five0. Buy from Summit Racing or another reputable dealer.