don't pull it unless it's leaking.
Plenum finally off
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
BTW hope your water heater isn't in your garage..........
otherwise we will call you dad's 90 kaboom
be careful
otherwise we will call you dad's 90 kaboom
be careful
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
Originally Posted by Dads90
Stupid question, is the anti seize the same as loctite ?
No, locktite keeps bolts from loosening, anti seize makes it possible to get an steel bolt out when screwed into alum. Like your spark plugs.
Last edited by RandyJ75; Dec 10, 2006 at 08:17 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
Your logic is good, but....it is a steel bolt into aluminum. You will not find to many aluminum bolts. You should use anti seize on steel bolts and your spark plug threads if they are threaded into aluminum.
Loctite is used when you don't want things to come apart. Usually steel on steel.
Loctite is used when you don't want things to come apart. Usually steel on steel.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
anti-sieze
anti-sieze is something you put on threads that are usually in a high heat area, or a area that rusts so that you can get the assembly apart again.
Loc-tite is something you put on assembly threads that keeps the nut or screw or bolt from backing off temporarily so that you can tighten a bolt or screw or nut and it will stay put till you want it to come off with a wrench. Think of it as paint for the threads. when the paint dries, the nut is tight till you turn it.
Then there's no locking feature to the loc-tited threads if you re-tighten the nut/bolt/screw.
Loc-tite is something you put on assembly threads that keeps the nut or screw or bolt from backing off temporarily so that you can tighten a bolt or screw or nut and it will stay put till you want it to come off with a wrench. Think of it as paint for the threads. when the paint dries, the nut is tight till you turn it.
Then there's no locking feature to the loc-tited threads if you re-tighten the nut/bolt/screw.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 898
Likes: 1
From: Pearland Texas
I basically only have the thermostat left to pull and the manifold will be ready to come off. It has visible oil leakage on the back side, slightly in the front. I had to order the Fel-Pro gasket kit, no hurry, I'm this far and I hate leaks !! Also got gaskets for the valve covers I noticed oil leakage around these as well. Nothing that is causing a drip spot, but I want to stop any chances of it getting worse. I figured the valve covers wouldn't be any easier than right now while the runners are out of the way. I will place the runners on and mark the covers to grind down for future removal. The oil pressure switch looks like it is leaking where it is screwed into the block. Is it possible to remove it clean it up and reset ? Or is replacement the only alternative ? Today would have been a good day to make loads of progress, but wasn't feeling well
and had to put the project on hold, will use this down time for more research.
and had to put the project on hold, will use this down time for more research.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 5,107
Likes: 171
From: Dublin CA
If you do pull off the intake, before installing it again think about this.
It has been suggested by others on the FORUM and I have used this on my Corvette and also my Blazer. Dimple the front and rear of the block between the heads (where the rubber gasket is installed) with a center punch. Do the same on the intake. Forget the rubber gasket and use Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the intake gaskets and run a bead about 3/8" in diameter on the front and rear of the block. These dimples help hold the Permatex in place. The Right Stuff is better than silicone, you can torque the manifold in place (and put everything back together) and fire the engine up without a wait period. If you use silicone you should wait about 24 hours.
You don't have to hit the center punch hard, you don't want deep holes, just small depressions. Hey it works.
It has been suggested by others on the FORUM and I have used this on my Corvette and also my Blazer. Dimple the front and rear of the block between the heads (where the rubber gasket is installed) with a center punch. Do the same on the intake. Forget the rubber gasket and use Permatex "The Right Stuff" on the intake gaskets and run a bead about 3/8" in diameter on the front and rear of the block. These dimples help hold the Permatex in place. The Right Stuff is better than silicone, you can torque the manifold in place (and put everything back together) and fire the engine up without a wait period. If you use silicone you should wait about 24 hours.
You don't have to hit the center punch hard, you don't want deep holes, just small depressions. Hey it works.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 8,753
Likes: 9
From: Louisiana
Remember preperation work goes along way, especially with the intake manifold and most anything else. If everything is not cleaned and ready for installation, you will have a poor outcome. JMO.
I agree, go ahead and replace the oil pressure switch.
I agree, go ahead and replace the oil pressure switch.
