C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Plenum finally off

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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:16 AM
  #1  
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Default Plenum finally off

In pursuit of new injectors ( or whatever else ) I started the teardown phase. Following some advice I'm trying to remove the Plenum with only the torx bolts, vacuum hoses and all other things unattached. Well things don't normally as planed. The darn thing wouldn't come loose by tapping up on the plenum with a rubber mallet. I finally had to remove the lower runner bolts on one side to allow for some play to work it free. I used a wide putty knife to gently wedge between the runner and plenum and pry, ever so gently while working it along the length of the joint freeing it up enough to pull it up. I noticed that some gasket material was missing and broken after it was removed. I'm planning to remove the runners, intake manifold (to check for leaks) clean and reseal anything that looks leaky. Hopefully the gasket material is recoverable at the bottom of the runners. Any suggestions to what I might replace, check on or look for while removing and inspecting?
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:22 AM
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Replace all the gaskets... take the bolts down to a bolt store, and get some grade 8 allen head bolts to replace the torx bolts. Clean the TB and the plenum (TB cleaner works fine)...watch out for vacum hose breakage.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 01:27 AM
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I wonder if someone used some RTV to seal as it should not have been that tight.

You should be able to get the gaskets at Auto Zone. You could pick up a "Top End" kit which has the intake base gaskets too. Once you have fresh gaskets installed they will be reusable.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 03:37 AM
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This would be a good time to port your plenum.

Clickage
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 04:50 AM
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Default gaskets

I replaced all my intake aluminum with stuff off an 88, and it sticks together like glue. I would think you are doing just fine, I wouldn't replace the manifold gasket. if they don't get moved, they seal just fine
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 07:03 AM
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I removed mine about 2 years ago on my 86. That darn thing would not come loose. I made the mistake of taping the runners with a rubber mallet. That was a big mistake. I didn't realize they were so thin. Well I had to replace one of the runners. I guess 18 years of never being remove and 90,000 miles make them stick a bit.
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Old Dec 4, 2006 | 11:18 PM
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Default Runners turn

Well I went to bed after getting the plenum off. The runners didn't seem to want to budge much. I did work them around a little and I can see a gap occuring. I might be using a small steel putty knife and work it into the gap and slowly pry it free. I do want to remove the intake manifold to clean and inspect it. Im woried about gasket matter falling in the intake. If it does find its way into the manifold can it travel any further ? Any suggestions or hints getting the runners off ?
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 01:02 AM
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Are you sure you have all the bolts out. There is one on each set of runners that is removed from the other side.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 01:36 AM
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Did you consider plenum porting? I do it and I am very affordable. Do yourself a favor and get some aftermarket runners.

If you want to check out my stuff go to Corvetteplenum.com

-Mike
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:17 AM
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When removing the plenum for the first time, I believe there are stock plastic pins. These have to be busted or there must be enough gap that they don't prevent upward movement. When I took mine apart I removed the drivers side runner first.

Yeah check the bolt that goes in from the other side.

Gasket matter could fall through the runner into the intake. Once the runner is off you should be able to clean it up fine.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 12:18 PM
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Are you sure you have all the bolts out. There is one on each set of runners that is removed from the other side.
Exactly; check the inside front & rear of the intake base for Torx bolts going into the lower runner flange.

The one on into the left rear runner flange is tough to access due to the dist being in the way.

BTW, when you install the pieces be sure to well start all the Torx bolts before using a wrench on them to avoid stripping. The plenum will likely require some grunting to get all the bolts hand started as the offset of the runners from one side to the other tends to skew the plenum.

Last edited by 65Z01; Dec 5, 2006 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 01:10 PM
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When you decide to to get the gaskets...get Felpro for the complete intake. You can buy the whole set. Use "The Right Stuff" on the intake manifold and leave out the front and rear S-shaped gaskets and jsut use the RTV. I believe a 5/16" bead is what you need there. Inspect everything good. When you get the injectors make sure they have 0-rings around them and use a little oil on them and they just pop in. Also replace the fuel rail to fuel line o-rings. They are brown colored and made for fuel. If you use regular black o-rings there will be a fuel leak. Make sure to connect all the sensors back when installing. I forgot to connect the MAT sensor and it is very difficult to reach once everything is togather. You might want to replace the vac lines while your at it.
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 11:24 PM
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I found those pesky little plastic pins, PITA. Plenum was fun cleaning off the old gasket, stuck good. Will probally report myself, the attachment showing how is good info, the corners in my plenum don't seem as square as the diagram shows, mine as slightly more rounded off. Oh the gas line on the fuel rail, kind of comical, once removed the darn thing wouldn't stop pouring gas. Nurse ! clamp! Oh its only me at midnight, after 5-10 minutes I got a bolt with teflon tape in there to stop the bleeding, patient stabilized. But the whole house stunk like gas and my wife had to wake me at 6am to tell me about it.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:14 AM
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While you are there, replace the oil pressure switch. Its near the distributur with the oil sending unit. These tend to leak. The oil will run down the wiring conduit to the oil filter and make a mess. When this happened to mine I had a real hard time figuring out where the leak actually was. Only a $13 part but it made a nasty mess.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
While you are there, replace the oil pressure switch.
Good to know, thanks for mentioning that.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Spankyellow
While you are there, replace the oil pressure switch. Its near the distributur with the oil sending unit. These tend to leak. The oil will run down the wiring conduit to the oil filter and make a mess. When this happened to mine I had a real hard time figuring out where the leak actually was. Only a $13 part but it made a nasty mess.
Thanks Spankyellow, will replace that. Today was productive day, got the day off from work, didn't call my wife and went to the garage. Got the driver side runner off, got the fuel rail off, got the EGR valve off, got the Distrib. out. Drained the coolant. Saturday, will remove the thermostst, and manifold. Questions,,, the gasket kit, does it have the gasket for the front and back of the manifold ? Should I use it ? Should I use Right Stuff only ? With gaskets being more advanced today then yesterdays batch can't decide which way to go.
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 11:37 PM
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Use the RTV on the ends. Run the bead about a half inch up the head overlaying the intake to head gaskets. Let it skin up for a while before installing the intake. I think that is what most people do today. What I did on my last rebuild without a leak.
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To Plenum finally off

Old Dec 7, 2006 | 11:58 PM
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BTW hope your water heater isn't in your garage..........

otherwise we will call you dad's 90 kaboom

be careful
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 12:02 AM
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Default Don't forget this

Anytime you are running a steel bolt into aluminum you should coat the bolt with anti-seize. If you don't, you run the risk of the bolt seizing the next time you try and take it out. It usually galls the bolt threads with aluminum and then you really have a problem .
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 12:33 AM
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Stupid question, is the anti seize the same as loctite ?
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