C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

battery not charging

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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 03:54 AM
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Default battery not charging

hello everybody, I've been reading this form for a while now and decided to join up. the info here is always great and very detail. thank you in advance. my question is I have a 1987 vette that was running fine except it needs new injectors. I had new mufflers and rear y-pipe put on my car by a local muffler shop. two days after getting my car back the battery will not hold a charge. so i bought a new (cheap one) from wal-mart. still will not hold charge. bought a new alt. still no charge. check voltage based on what one of the other form members suggested at alt.& bat still no charge, can some one pls give me more insite as to what i am missing? thanks sorry about this being so long
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 07:19 AM
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If the battery is not holding the charge and its a new battery, the alternator is at fault or its a defective new battery (possible). I also purchased a battery at Walmart.

Are you sure your alternator is putting out 14.+ ?

Is it possible that you have a draw on the battery after you've turned off the engine (stuck door switch etc.)

You might have to get out your multimeter and start doing tests for an abnormal draw on the battery.

Get back to us, for the next round of tests.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 08:09 AM
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I agree with the door switch, they're famous for sticking...look around for other drains as well such as under-hood lighting, vanity lighting, aftermarket audio, etc.

On another note, Feb. of last year I replaced my battery only to find the new one had a bad cell from the start. To test this, remove your battery and put it on a charger and see if it holds a charge while isolated (or have it tested).
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 08:16 AM
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This is one of the reasons why I buy 'dual post' batteries.

I disconnect the negative lead from the battery and use a jumper cable from the negative 'top post' of the battery to the engine, usually alternator bracket.

Start the car and then disconnect the cable. If the car stays running chances are the alternator is good. If it dies, it's bad or you have a bad connector on the alternator.

Of course, the diode pack could also have one leg bad, in which case the car will still run but the battery won't charge because the voltage will be too low and it won't put out enough current.

Hope this helps.

Last edited by Keystring; Dec 29, 2006 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 09:25 AM
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Charge the battery up. Start the car and read the voltage at the back of the alternator, the large cable that goes to the battery. You should see 13 to 15 volts at the back of the alternator. Check the battery voltage when the engine is off, you should see this at the back of the alternator when the engine is off, if not check the cables between the two.
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Old Dec 29, 2006 | 10:23 AM
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[QUOTE=elefkow;1558289461]If the battery is not holding the charge and its a new battery, the alternator is at fault or its a defective new battery (possible). I also purchased a battery at Walmart.

QUOTE]

Did you clean your terminals? I got a bad alternator from advance and in the process of replacing it. It was rebuilt. Got a bad Durasal battery from Autozone also. They are known for **** parts.
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Old Dec 30, 2006 | 09:12 PM
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Default battery not charging

thanks everybody for all the info. I feel kinda stupid though. it was a 10 amp fuse for the hot run in test or start. but I did buy a new battery die hard.......
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