What size rotors?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
The size of the rotors (13" vs 12") is meaningful, but a good compound in the pad is also very important. I have the J-55's and tried several pad and rotor combinations. What I'm using now is flat great.
13" Power slots and Hawk hps.
I think the key is the rotor AND pad combination.
Good luck.
13" Power slots and Hawk hps.
I think the key is the rotor AND pad combination.
Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 10,383
Likes: 4
The size of the rotors (13" vs 12") is meaningful, but a good compound in the pad is also very important. I have the J-55's and tried several pad and rotor combinations. What I'm using now is flat great.
13" Power slots and Hawk hps.
I think the key is the rotor AND pad combination.
Good luck.
13" Power slots and Hawk hps.
I think the key is the rotor AND pad combination.
Good luck.
My wife's '92 is stock flat 12" and I've wondered if a change to 13" is as simple as callipers and rotors or is there a needed braket too.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 59,243
Likes: 0
From: Driving a hybrid in Hipsterville
I'm confused a bit. Please help me understand something. Many on CF are not fans of cross drilled rotors while they are in favor of slotted. It was my understanding that slots removed pad dust so the initial bite of the brake was better. And also my understanding that cross drilled holes allowed the off-gassing a place to expand to which helped with fade. So it seems that slotted and cross drilled is the best. But taking the opinions of other members here into account I'd rather just get slotted only. But when I look at rotors all I seem to find are flat, cross drilled, and slotted and cross drilled. I can't seem to find slotted only w/o cross drilled too. FWIW my current rotors are stock 13" flats.
My wife's '92 is stock flat 12" and I've wondered if a change to 13" is as simple as callipers and rotors or is there a needed braket too.
My wife's '92 is stock flat 12" and I've wondered if a change to 13" is as simple as callipers and rotors or is there a needed braket too.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 36,453
Likes: 2
From: Overwhelmed as one would be, placed in my position.... DFW, TX
St. Jude Donor '05
Your problem is poor brake pad choice, not brake fade. Brake fade is a result of excessive heat in the pad (and/or fluid) causing the pads to overheat. This is usually caused by repeated stops from high speed. In some cases, this can even lead to boiling the fluid which will generally end in a lawnmowing expedition. (Off-track). Normal driving (even autocross) will not generate enough heat in the stock pads to "fade" them. You're wasting money if you think you need new brakes for your driving style.
1st- bleed all the fluid out. That dark black crap in the lines is not helping.
If that doesn't "fix it"-
2nd- replace the pads with a more aggressive compound. Pad chocie makes a TON of difference.
Only then, if you plan to track the car, do you need to upgrade the brakes.
1st- bleed all the fluid out. That dark black crap in the lines is not helping.
If that doesn't "fix it"-
2nd- replace the pads with a more aggressive compound. Pad chocie makes a TON of difference.
Only then, if you plan to track the car, do you need to upgrade the brakes.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 5
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
C4 brakes are very straight forward. I have J55 brakes on my Z51 and they work well. However, I agree you may only need a complete "brake job", pads, rotors(or turn rotors), and flush the fluid system. If that doesn't satisfy, you can go to 13" brakes on the front. Make sure you use a high quality pad.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 13,348
Likes: 233
From: SCMR Rat Pack'r Charter Member..Great Bend KS
