C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

draining rear?

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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 03:31 AM
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Default draining rear?

how do you drain the rear on a d36? there is suppost to be a drain bolt in the bottom of the rear but that doesnt go all the way through.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 05:22 AM
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There is no provision for draining, in the constant effort to save a penny the factory chose not to provide one. Most people use a suction gun to remove the old lubricant through the fill plug, you can also drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a pipe plug. Don't buy one of the expensive "kits" all you need is a 5/16 drill an 1/8 X 27 pipe tap. Center punch a spot 1/2 inch left of the lowest bolt centerline, 1/2 inch forward of the batwing cover. Use care when drilling, to avoid nicking the ring gear, a "stop" on your drill at about 1 inch should work. The draining lubricant will remove any chips.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by bigwave71
how do you drain the rear on a d36? there is suppost to be a drain bolt in the bottom of the rear but that doesnt go all the way through.
Go to andy bogus's web site. He goes thru the entire process with pics. When it the site, go to "tech library".
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by elefkow
Go to andy bogus's web site. He goes thru the entire process with pics. When it the site, go to "tech library".
Did a search on user name Andy Bogus and came up empty. What is the address of the site?

Jim
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by LT1inaMGB
Did a search on user name Andy Bogus and came up empty. What is the address of the site?

Jim
If you look on the Forum, it "bogus" On the net its"c4guru.com" (www.c4guru.com)
Its very well done.

Last edited by runner140*; Jan 5, 2007 at 11:45 AM. Reason: completeness...
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by toptechx6
There is no provision for draining, in the constant effort to save a penny the factory chose not to provide one. Most people use a suction gun to remove the old lubricant through the fill plug, you can also drill and tap the bottom of the housing for a pipe plug. Don't buy one of the expensive "kits" all you need is a 5/16 drill an 1/8 X 27 pipe tap. Center punch a spot 1/2 inch left of the lowest bolt centerline, 1/2 inch forward of the batwing cover. Use care when drilling, to avoid nicking the ring gear, a "stop" on your drill at about 1 inch should work. The draining lubricant will remove any chips.

If you're going to go this route (for future lube changes) you might want to suction the old lubricant out anyway before you drill into the housing. Gravity has a way of making your drill a real mess once you've poked the hole through.
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jrzvette
If you're going to go this route (for future lube changes) you might want to suction the old lubricant out anyway before you drill into the housing. Gravity has a way of making your drill a real mess once you've poked the hole through.
You just have to be fast!
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by toptechx6
You just have to be fast!
Not if it's freezing cold out
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Old Jan 5, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by jrzvette
If you're going to go this route (for future lube changes) you might want to suction the old lubricant out anyway before you drill into the housing. Gravity has a way of making your drill a real mess once you've poked the hole through.
but then the metal files are still in there
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 04:40 AM
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Originally Posted by AGENT 86
Not if it's freezing cold out
Good Point Agent86, guess I've been living in Florida too long In the future I'll revise my drain plug install procedure to include the first step "Drive north until ambient temperature is freezing or below."
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Old Jan 6, 2007 | 12:29 PM
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