C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 12:44 PM
  #21  
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COOLANT SEALER SUPPLEMENT - None required
POWER STEERING - Valvoline Synpower

JMO

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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:00 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
There are some downsides to the BMW 10w60 though, including cost and double the viscosity recommended. There are fluids out there, such as the AMSOIL MTF that I linked above that are specifically designed for your C4 tranny and labeled to meet the specifications for GM Part 1052931. They are not gear oils. These aftermarket synthetics have the proper additives and viscosity (5w30). While I'm sure the BMW 10w60 will work as so many recommend and use it, you will be losing HP and fuel economy due to increased drivetrain friction.
Good point. (manual reads 5W30)
Why is the higher viscosity recommoneded?
Is the increased viscosity (10W60) to provide more protection and help with that common failed axle seal??
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
There are some downsides to the BMW 10w60 though, including cost and double the viscosity recommended. There are fluids out there, such as the AMSOIL MTF that I linked above that are specifically designed for your C4 tranny and labeled to meet the specifications for GM Part 1052931. They are not gear oils. These aftermarket synthetics have the proper additives and viscosity (5w30). While I'm sure the BMW 10w60 will work as so many recommend and use it, you will be losing HP and fuel economy due to increased drivetrain friction.
I'm currently running the Castrol 10/60. But, will give the Amsoil MTF a try next tranny oil change.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 01:58 PM
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I changed the fluid in my ZF6 about 6 months ago, and went with the Amzoil that Subdriver recommends. I am very happy with this fluid. It shifts extremely smooth
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #25  
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all look good but I would go with the GM clutch fluid, or else you will get a squeeky master cylinder.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 02:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mekanic
all look good but I would go with the GM clutch fluid, or else you will get a squeeky master cylinder.
GM Clutch fluid P/N 12345347 (Dot3 grade with friction modifiers). While the Valvoline Synpower is a good fluid it does not contain the additives used by GM for the clutch system.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 03:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mekanic
all look good but I would go with the GM clutch fluid, or else you will get a squeeky master cylinder.
I use SynPower. No squeaks. Works fine. Price is right. Availability is great.

Larry
code5cope
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 03:30 PM
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Originally Posted by rocco16
I use SynPower. No squeaks. Works fine. Price is right. Availability is great.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Subdriver
There are some downsides to the BMW 10w60 though, including cost and double the viscosity recommended. There are fluids out there, such as the AMSOIL MTF that I linked above that are specifically designed for your C4 tranny and labeled to meet the specifications for GM Part 1052931. They are not gear oils. These aftermarket synthetics have the proper additives and viscosity (5w30). While I'm sure the BMW 10w60 will work as so many recommend and use it, you will be losing HP and fuel economy due to increased drivetrain friction.
If you read the results from the independent lab tests (posted on ZFDoc website) on the 10w60 oil that was removed from the test ZF box, you'll note that after a very short time in service, the viscosity of the lube was cut approximately in half as a result of shear forces, etc in the gearbox. I wouldn't worry much about added driveline friction losses killing your fuel economy, as I doubt you'll notice much real-world difference...

Be well,

SJW
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 06:34 PM
  #30  
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Your choices are pretty much the same as I did to my 96

1. You don't need two bottles of LS additive with the Syntec diff oil.

2. Thoroughly flush the brake and clutch system because you don't know what was in there.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 08:07 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by SJW
If you read the results from the independent lab tests (posted on ZFDoc website) on the 10w60 oil that was removed from the test ZF box, you'll note that after a very short time in service, the viscosity of the lube was cut approximately in half as a result of shear forces, etc in the gearbox. I wouldn't worry much about added driveline friction losses killing your fuel economy, as I doubt you'll notice much real-world difference...

Be well,

SJW
Anybody run Royal Purple oil in their ZF? They show an aplication for their 5w30 oil listed for the ZF. Royal purple has always tested high in comparisons.
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Old Jan 11, 2007 | 11:15 PM
  #32  
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A few things that I see here disturb me...

1) The NEW coolants are green, again. Prestone makes a version that is compatible with both old green and newer orange. Nothing to fret there.

2) I have been using Valvoline Synpower for the last 4 years in both my clutch and brakes and have had ZERO issues with either... infact, my clutch hydraulics are almost 5 years old. They leak, yes, but not to the point where they quit.

3) All this talk about oils... as far as motor oil is concerned, if you get a major brand (Mobil, Castrol, Valvoline, Amsoil, Royal Purple, et.al.) synthetic, and change it every 4~5k miles, you will never experience an oil failure. I know some of the modern synthetics will go farther, but I have issue with that. I need some more empirical data to go with before I risk that. Also use a good filter, such as the AC Gold, the Mobil 1 or K&N. Stay clear of the $4.00 cheapo's.

4) As for the rear end. I prefer the mixture of conventional gear oil with the additive. For some reason, it just makes more sense to me. Essentially, with the LSD, it's the way Dana engineered it (the ZF accepts the Castrol, both via ZF Doc AND ZF themselves), if Dana has an alternative product, I would be willing to listen. But experiementing with a $1000.00 diff seems silly to me. Change the fluid every 30k.

C4 Guru - Changing Differential Fluid.

5) The BMW oil may be a higher viscosoty, but it hasn't hurt my ZF in 100k miles... it has 160k and shifts just fine.

C4 Guru - Changing ZF6 Fluid.
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 10:51 AM
  #33  
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Default My conclusion....

Thank you all very much for the inputs!!!
I understand that half of the brand types are personal perference and work fine.

So with that, I've concluded the following for my vehicle:
(selected in Blue)

OIL
-Mobil 1 Synth (most common)
-AMSOIL Series
-[Other synthetics]
NOTE: Change every 6mo/3k miles (I drive low miles).

COOLANT
-DexCool with distilled water 50/50 (for 1996 ONLY!!!) <-until I find research otehrwise...
-Prestone Extended Life (says its compabile with all colors)
NOTE: Change every 5yr/30k miles.

COOLANT ADDITIVE
-Redline Wetter Water or other (Not required but it wont hurt)

DIFFERENTIAL FLUID
-Castrol Syntec Gear oil (and add GM addtivie)
-Mobil 1 (and add GM addtivie)
-AMSOIL Synthetic (already has additive)
-Royal Purple (and add GM addtivie)
-Redline Synthetic (and add GM addtivie)
-[Other synthetics]
NOTE: Change every 30k miles.

MANUAL TRANS FLUID
-AMSOIL Synthetic Synchormesh MTF (5W-30)
-BMW M5 Castrol 10W-60 Oil <-zfdoc says only use this... (not Mobil1)
NOTE: zfdoc.com says change every 15k per tests. GM manual says Never. I don't believe either (somewhere between).
NOTE: Change every 30k miles.

BRAKE FLUID
-Valvoline Synpower
-Delco Sumpreme 11 (PN 1052535)
-[Other synthetics]
NOTE: Found artile says change every year. Seems excessive.
NOTE: Change every 50k miles.

CLUTCH FLUID
-Valvoline Synpower
-GM Clutch Fluid w/ modifiers (PN 12345347) <-zfdoc says only use this...
-[Other synthetics]
NOTE: Change every 50k miles.

POWER STEERING FLUID
-Valvoline Synpower
-Redline Synthetic
-[Other synthetics]
NOTE: Change every 50k miles.


Thanks all!! U guys are awesome!!
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Old Jan 12, 2007 | 12:06 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by RollaMo-LT4
1996 Corvette came from the factory with Dex-Cool coolant. Do not ever mix the two! If you insist on changing over the the geen stuff, you better make sure you have a complete flush and no trace of Dex-Cool left. Otherwise you'll create "sludge".

I have Dex-Cool in my LT4, and have had no problems. The Dex-Cool vs. Green coolant seems to stir up more debate than any other topic. I would stick with what it came from the factory with.
Dexcool seems to often be more than able to produce plenty of sludge on its own, without the help of older style green antifreeze...
plus, Dex does seem to be more leak prone for some reason.

if you keep the Dexcool, just be sure to keep a close eye on its condition...
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