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Last I played with them..there was 4 models of the 305H cam...they differed in lobe seperation, with the tight one being for all out small block bracket racing. Any which way....they are all rough idle low vacuum hmid-high RPM horsepower cams.
I do not think they are well suited to an EFI engine. In fact...your vacuum will bounce so much...the computer probably won't be able to run unless you do tricks with the calibration to ignore just about everything at idle except for TPS voltage. Not a fun thing to try and tune I wouldn't think.
The 305 and the 306 are pretty good cams. The idle is lumpy in the 306, but very livable. I drove mine every day for a a year and a half. My vaccuum does not bounce around bad at all. If you tune it right and have your TB set correctly, you should not have a problem at all.
Let me know if I can help you with one of these.
Custom tuning is a definite when going with a cam such as this. The A/F ratio will be totally whacked with a "standard" chip or aftermarket. Low vacuum? Not a big deal. I don't have any problems with mine short of... when cruising in 6th gear ~65mph for an extended period, the ECM will set an EGR code because the vacuum doesn't match up with something related to the speed... don't know quite what it was, but as soon as I checked my troubleshooting guide, it smacked me in the face. The car barely pulls vacuum at idle and 1200rpm isn't much better... nope, no vacuum leaks.
Top end power? Wow! Look out... I've got the TPIS ZZ9x cam and the specs are similar. It'll rev easily over 6k with the fortified valve train, etc.
I have a couple of friends running the CC305 cam, very similar performance to the Hot Cam, maybe a little more choppy at idle. The CC 306 Cam is awesome up top but your low end will sufer alot. 4.10+ gears are a must with the CC306, I was thinking about doing the 306 in my car but a buddy of mine said its not worth giving up the low end for what you gain in the top end, he said his car was very hard to lauch on street tires....Bog or Burn
I personally like the Extreme Energy line of cams. Last year I used the 230/236 cam. The idle was excellent and it made power all the way up to 6500.
The Extreme line of cams has Comps newest profiles. I had no problem passing emmissions with this cam. You won't be disappointed.
By the way, this year I'm using an Extreme Energy Solid Roller. Great street manners and idle but still pulls to 7200!
How much tuning did you have to do to get the computer working with the 305/306 cams?
Actually, I was not tuning my own car way back then. LT1Edit was just comming out and I was a little leary at first. The program was done mail order and was absolutely NAILED the first time.
I personally like the Extreme Energy line of cams. Last year I used the 230/236 cam. The idle was excellent and it made power all the way up to 6500.
The Extreme line of cams has Comps newest profiles. I had no problem passing emmissions with this cam. You won't be disappointed.
By the way, this year I'm using an Extreme Energy Solid Roller. Great street manners and idle but still pulls to 7200!
The extreme energy cams are designed with a very steep ramp rate, high jerk, etc. They are good cams and make pretty good power, but they beat the cr@p out of your valvetrain. If you are going to use oneof these, I would definitly opt for some super lightweight titanium retainers and some very high quality springs.
Our custom cams fall somewhere inbetween there in agressiveness. They were designed to give maximum street drivability as well as power. There were a lot of cam doctor reports examined and a lot of trial and error before the lobes were finalized.
Now the solid roller series is awesome! I cannot say enough about the solid roller setup. It is a little more money upfront, but well worth the power, drivability, emissions, etc. !!!
I ran the 305 cam in my 396. I had no problems with vacuum or idle and I actually thought it was quite mild. It had gobs of torque but a lot of that has to do with the extra cubes. I am converting to a solid roller setup and sold the 305 cam to a forum member that is putting it in a 350 LT1.
2fast
I was running the 236-242(same as hi-tech5) soid roller. I had some dist issues. I just upgraded now to a 248/248 (adv 288/288) .615 lift wit h1.6rr.
Yes you can hear this cam. Drives really well though. (running a 7730 ecm)
Still have not done a vacum guage test. but kpa readings are about 68kpa. I would eatimate roughly 10"
My only problem is idle. still messing with the idle programming and TB. I am shooting for a 900 idle. Any lower will lose vacum. At 825 I was at 75kpa. Also a little to rough of a idle.
Will be attending the RT 66 this weekend and gettting some 1/4 times. Will post results .
I have a couple of friends running the CC305 cam, very similar performance to the Hot Cam, maybe a little more choppy at idle. The CC 306 Cam is awesome up top but your low end will sufer alot. 4.10+ gears are a must with the CC306, I was thinking about doing the 306 in my car but a buddy of mine said its not worth giving up the low end for what you gain in the top end, he said his car was very hard to lauch on street tires....Bog or Burn
Mike
Mike What times are the cars runninr with the 305 cam vs. the Hot cam? I had the hot cam in my 95 and went 12.38 with it. I'm looking for a bit more with the LT4 but still keep it drivable like the hot cam was.
I ran the 305 cam in my 396. I had no problems with vacuum or idle and I actually thought it was quite mild. It had gobs of torque but a lot of that has to do with the extra cubes. I am converting to a solid roller setup and sold the 305 cam to a forum member that is putting it in a 350 LT1.
Chris, what size roller are you going with?
RichS, why not go with a solid roller cam? You can get the same idle quality as a hot cam and make the same or more power than a cc306. If I could do it over again that would be my choice, LT4heads,solid roller,4.27gears :jester
I was thinking about a solid roller setup also. I'm torn :confused: I need more info about the solid setup. I'm not to woried about reseting lash once a year or so just the drivability.
From: Former NCM Drag Racing coordinator, National director Corvette Challenge Spring Hill, Tennessee: Whiting, New Jersey
Cruise-In VI Veteran
Cruise-In VII Veteran
Re: Comp cam 305 grind (RichS)
Rich, saturday at the track you may want to talk to Julio from Cartek about the comp cam he had built for my motor. He also had the computor program he developed for my car on the dyno to work with it. A form of this could be downloaded in your car. John
John, I thought Cartek sent out there computers. I'll have to talk to him Sat. I just don't want to put the wrong parts in the car. I was happy with the 95 but want a bit more :D It's a disease hehe
I was thinking about a solid roller setup also. I'm torn :confused: I need more info about the solid setup. I'm not to woried about reseting lash once a year or so just the drivability.
Over a hydraulic cam main difference will be lifters and springs. Crane makes a taller lifter (pn 155-22) if I remember correctly that drops right in to late model blocks, affordable as well. With more aggressive ramps on mechanical cams you'll need more spring pressure, around 200lbs on the seat and 600 open. Make sure your valvetrain is beefed up, comp pro magnum rockers and 7/16 studs is highly suggested. Driveability will depend on what size cam you use and tuning.
Not a monster cam, but it is a 240/250, .617/.625 w/1.52 RR (.649/.658 w/1.6rr) on a 114 lobe separation. It has made almost 470 NA rear wheel on a similar setup as mine. Also maintains quite a bit of streetability. I am looking forward to getting the motor back with the new pistons and check out how this baby is going to run with my heads.
So far it has cost me about $1800-$2000 just in new parts for the changeover from hydraulic, but it could be done for quite a bit cheaper if you used some cheaper parts. I am using the EndureX lifters, and some Tool Steel springs, with lash caps, spring cups, new titanium retainers, steel 1.52 roller rockers. It is necessary to machine down the springs seats in the heads to accomodate a little larger outside diameter spring for the solid roller, so you have to add some machine work costs for the heads.
Not a monster cam, but it is a 240/250, .617/.625 w/1.52 RR (.649/.658 w/1.6rr) on a 114 lobe separation. It has made almost 470 NA rear wheel on a similar setup as mine. Also maintains quite a bit of streetability. I am looking forward to getting the motor back with the new pistons and check out how this baby is going to run with my heads.
Sounds great, can't wait to hear about your new times/power!:D