Pulling/Installing the crankshaft hub
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
Pulling/Installing the crankshaft hub
This is not an unusual happening -- I've seen several posts about this.
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496163
For those trying to get away without using the Kent-Moore puller/installer on the LT1/LT4, be careful.
Tom Piper
http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthread.php?t=496163
For those trying to get away without using the Kent-Moore puller/installer on the LT1/LT4, be careful.
Tom Piper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Jan 16, 2007 at 08:24 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
Read about four posts down in this thread for another one:
http://lt1tech.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...c;f=6;t=005310
Tom Piper
http://lt1tech.com/cgi-bin/ultimateb...c;f=6;t=005310
Tom Piper
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
I took your advice Tom and obtained the Kent Moore tools before I took my 96 apart and I'm glad I did. I can see how it would be easy to screw the crank snout up without the proper tools. Folks are in a hurry to get the hub off with whatever is on hand I guess and your posts are a good example of how easily the job can go South and turn into a huge project!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 2,137
Likes: 5
From: Howard PA
I can't understand why folks just don't buy some longer bolts that thread into the crank snout for the puller to push on. I re-installed mine in a similar fashion with even longer bolts and a series of washers. It was a piece of cake and Kent Moore can keep their tool.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
Part of the enjoyment of working on these things is derived from having the correct tools to do the job. Different strokes as they say. The Kent Moore stuff is a little pricey but then it works likes it is supposed to too. If you wanna use a homebrewed tool I say more power to you
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 9,935
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Another good thing of the tool is when you put it back opn. I mean, how much pounding can the crank take if someone is trying to get th ehub back on without pressing it back on. I know forged pieces can take allot, but what about bearings etc.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
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From: CLT, North Carolina
Part of the problem is the crankshaft snout is soft cast iron, not a case hardened forging and will not take much abuse. In addition the damper hub and timing gear (if you are in there to change that) have more interference fit than is necessary possibly because of production tolerances. The Kent Moore tool just worked well and made the job much easier than how it apparently turned out for some of the others reported above.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I took your advice Tom and obtained the Kent Moore tools before I took my 96 apart and I'm glad I did. I can see how it would be easy to screw the crank snout up without the proper tools. Folks are in a hurry to get the hub off with whatever is on hand I guess and your posts are a good example of how easily the job can go South and turn into a huge project!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
It was expensive for sure but not that much. I called SPX to find out the cost and the customer service rep explained the J-39046 puller/installer would be discounted if I ordered something for a few dollars more and shipping would also be free so I added the J-39087 water pump front cover seal protector. The J-39046 was 249.38 and the J-39087 was 45.29 shipped. If you have the engine out of the car and on a stand then just about anything will work but if you want to pull the front off the engine in the car you don't have much room for the usual pullers everybody has in their tool box due to close proximity of the steering rack and crossmember. I was going to make a puller and an installer in our shop but decided not to after I learned what the actual cost was and it will be nice to have the Kent Moore stuff anyway for future jobs seeing as I have gotten interested in C4s.
Le Mans Master
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From: South Carolina
St. Jude Donor '03 & '05
Race Director
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
You see all kinds of stuff here on the forum. Guys hammering on dampers and damper hubs or using giant pry bars. The snout is cast iron folks. I read one a while back where the guy bought the Kent Moore hub puller and didn't have a wrench to fit the arbor so he used vice grips to turn it. This is the kind of stuff that happens if you have one and loan it out! A Kent Moore J-39046 sold on eBay last night for $105. The description said it was missing a few pieces. I wonder if the high bidder noticed one of them was the threaded arbor? I just bought a new one because I didn't want to deal with stuff like that. I also honed the damper hub and timing gear to reduce the press fit to .001 interference before I put it back together which is more than enough and easier to deal with than the .0018 the parts originally had. Your mileage may vary.
Last edited by Greg Gore; Jan 17, 2007 at 10:13 AM.
Thread Starter
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
I don't think anyone is saying it can't be done without the Kent-Moore tool.
I think it depends on the comfort level, experience, and even luck of each individual.
Destroying a crankshaft, not to mention the hassle of getting the crank out, may cause some to think the risk is too great.
My opinion is the Kent-Moore tool is designed to assemble in that confined area where the steering rack is in the way and it has a large ball-bearing thrust bearing.
That thrust bearing reduces the load on the crankshaft threads when installing the hub -- a lot less turning friction than a stack of washers.
Of course you could find a thrust bearing if you wanted to.
I, personally, don't like the idea of using a bolt in the crankshaft threads to push against to remove the hub.
The tool is designed to push against the blind end of the crankshaft without touching the threads.
If you look at the link in the first post above, that individual actually thought he was not touching the threads with his setup, but ruined the crank threads anyway.
Tom PIper
I think it depends on the comfort level, experience, and even luck of each individual.
Destroying a crankshaft, not to mention the hassle of getting the crank out, may cause some to think the risk is too great.
My opinion is the Kent-Moore tool is designed to assemble in that confined area where the steering rack is in the way and it has a large ball-bearing thrust bearing.
That thrust bearing reduces the load on the crankshaft threads when installing the hub -- a lot less turning friction than a stack of washers.
Of course you could find a thrust bearing if you wanted to.
I, personally, don't like the idea of using a bolt in the crankshaft threads to push against to remove the hub.
The tool is designed to push against the blind end of the crankshaft without touching the threads.
If you look at the link in the first post above, that individual actually thought he was not touching the threads with his setup, but ruined the crank threads anyway.
Tom PIper
Last edited by Tom Piper; Jan 17, 2007 at 10:42 AM.
