That can't be good. ......:
" drilling thermo stat mod "
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
johnny thanks for that info mate!
so what plug do i need to buy for the block of plug for the "block"?
do you have any photos johnny you can post up please some time mate r.e this mod?
also your beast in your avatar picture,is that a zr1?, as it looks like it has very large wide body standard flare/rear guards thats all mate!
its a nice rear photo of your car there mate!
any way thanks for your great tips and help johnny!
cheers
glen
so what plug do i need to buy for the block of plug for the "block"?
do you have any photos johnny you can post up please some time mate r.e this mod?
also your beast in your avatar picture,is that a zr1?, as it looks like it has very large wide body standard flare/rear guards thats all mate!
its a nice rear photo of your car there mate!
any way thanks for your great tips and help johnny!
cheers
glen
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 2
From: Thomson Georgia
Glenn,
Use the same size plug and tap for the block, 1/4" NPT. If you do the block you'll need 2 taps. 1 to start with and the 2nd you'll have to take about 2mm off of it, so that you can tap the hole big enough to get the plug in. You'll need to drill the hole a little bit bigger to get the tap to start. If you look in the by pass hole you'll see the cylinder about 1/4" behind it. You don't want to drill into that! Fills the oil pan with water! That's why I suggested doing the water pump. The engine won't know the difference.
I'd think any good parts store, or machine shop supplier, down under would have the yank parts you need.
johnny
Use the same size plug and tap for the block, 1/4" NPT. If you do the block you'll need 2 taps. 1 to start with and the 2nd you'll have to take about 2mm off of it, so that you can tap the hole big enough to get the plug in. You'll need to drill the hole a little bit bigger to get the tap to start. If you look in the by pass hole you'll see the cylinder about 1/4" behind it. You don't want to drill into that! Fills the oil pan with water! That's why I suggested doing the water pump. The engine won't know the difference.
I'd think any good parts store, or machine shop supplier, down under would have the yank parts you need.
johnny
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,251
Likes: 2
From: Thomson Georgia
Sorry, forgot.
That's the primered rear of my 90. ZR1 offset 17"X 11" wheels with flared rear wheelwells. Flared around 32-40mm to cover the tires. Nothing is add on, it's all Corvette. Getting ready to go to 18" X 12" wheels and bigger rubber, going to try to get some 345s under there.
I've got an L98 sitting in the shop, I'll do that block and snap some pics for you in a day or to.
johnny
That's the primered rear of my 90. ZR1 offset 17"X 11" wheels with flared rear wheelwells. Flared around 32-40mm to cover the tires. Nothing is add on, it's all Corvette. Getting ready to go to 18" X 12" wheels and bigger rubber, going to try to get some 345s under there.
I've got an L98 sitting in the shop, I'll do that block and snap some pics for you in a day or to.
johnny
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
[QUOTE=johnnyevans;1558608710]I do this mod on all Gen I builds. I normally do the tap in the block, but it's easier to do on the water pump.
Take a 1/4" NPT and tap the water pump face where it bolts to the block, then take a 1/4" allen head plug and thread it into the pump so that it's flush with the pump face. If it's not flush, you'll end up with water leaks end QOUTE.
johnny, i think i would just do the water pump mod for now mate as the block one is getting a bit dicey for me at this stage!
so is there any thing else do with the water pump job?
just what you mentioned above yeah?
do i need any other parts or specail sealants?
thanks again mate!
glen
Take a 1/4" NPT and tap the water pump face where it bolts to the block, then take a 1/4" allen head plug and thread it into the pump so that it's flush with the pump face. If it's not flush, you'll end up with water leaks end QOUTE.
johnny, i think i would just do the water pump mod for now mate as the block one is getting a bit dicey for me at this stage!
so is there any thing else do with the water pump job?
just what you mentioned above yeah?
do i need any other parts or specail sealants?
thanks again mate!
glen
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,858
Likes: 7
From: Santa Maria CA
I've done the holes. Basically all it does is allow some coolant to keep circulating even when the stat is closed. Your car will still reach the temps as before, but it will just take a little longer to reach them. So you are not really fixing anything, just delaying. In trade you car takes that much longer to warm up during cold start. About the only benefit I noticed from this mod was that I did not have to sweat the temps as much at a red light. Not worth the effort to pull the stat for what you get. Do it right by kicking the fans on ealier via a chip or low temp switch.
Safety Car
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 4
From: Hinckley Ohio
I might have over done it.....4 small holes......at temps below about 60F you never reach operating temperature..
At least on an LT4 there are "burp" valves provided, so do it right and you don't need burp holes in the stat..
IMHO, don't do it
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
skyvet: You wanted a photo of the t'stat drilling process and here it is:
When you ask for opinions from this forum, expect to get them! Here are my comments on the drilling of the t'stat:
1. Mod to improve performance - No.
2. Waste of time - No. I consider the coolant burping process to be a waste of time. The drilling is done only once and the burping will be required each time you drain and refill the cooling system.
I usually drill two 1/16 inch (1.59mm Down Under) holes in the housing. The difference in the amount of time to warm up the engine is very small.
The throttle bypass is a similiar situation. The major improvement here is to "clean up" a very busy part of your engine (throttle body area). Let me know if you want a picture of the throttle by pass on a 89 model.
When you ask for opinions from this forum, expect to get them! Here are my comments on the drilling of the t'stat:
1. Mod to improve performance - No.
2. Waste of time - No. I consider the coolant burping process to be a waste of time. The drilling is done only once and the burping will be required each time you drain and refill the cooling system.
I usually drill two 1/16 inch (1.59mm Down Under) holes in the housing. The difference in the amount of time to warm up the engine is very small.
The throttle bypass is a similiar situation. The major improvement here is to "clean up" a very busy part of your engine (throttle body area). Let me know if you want a picture of the throttle by pass on a 89 model.
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,662
Likes: 8
From: Knoxville Tennessee
I have drilled a couple small holes in t-stats for the last 20 years after having problems with air pockest is british sports cars. Warmup time is insignificant and I never have to burp the system after. A great tip which saves time and aggrivation!
Bernie
Bernie
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 13,943
Likes: 705
From: WI
skyvet: You wanted a photo of the t'stat drilling process and here it is:
When you ask for opinions from this forum, expect to get them! Here are my comments on the drilling of the t'stat:
1. Mod to improve performance - No.
2. Waste of time - No. I consider the coolant burping process to be a waste of time. The drilling is done only once and the burping will be required each time you drain and refill the cooling system.
I usually drill two 1/16 inch (1.59mm Down Under) holes in the housing. The difference in the amount of time to warm up the engine is very small.
The throttle bypass is a similiar situation. The major improvement here is to "clean up" a very busy part of your engine (throttle body area). Let me know if you want a picture of the throttle by pass on a 89 model.
When you ask for opinions from this forum, expect to get them! Here are my comments on the drilling of the t'stat:
1. Mod to improve performance - No.
2. Waste of time - No. I consider the coolant burping process to be a waste of time. The drilling is done only once and the burping will be required each time you drain and refill the cooling system.
I usually drill two 1/16 inch (1.59mm Down Under) holes in the housing. The difference in the amount of time to warm up the engine is very small.
The throttle bypass is a similiar situation. The major improvement here is to "clean up" a very busy part of your engine (throttle body area). Let me know if you want a picture of the throttle by pass on a 89 model.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 469
Likes: 1
hi sam lam,
thanks for posting up pictures and your help/advice mate!
really good of ya mate!
also to ultraviolet70 ,hi there mate yep it would great if you could post up a couple of photos of your water pump mod you have done!
hi bernies vette thank you also for your input mate as well!
cheers guys
glen
Australia
thanks for posting up pictures and your help/advice mate!
really good of ya mate!
also to ultraviolet70 ,hi there mate yep it would great if you could post up a couple of photos of your water pump mod you have done!
hi bernies vette thank you also for your input mate as well!
cheers guys
glen
Australia
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,118
Likes: 0
From: St. Charles, MO Route 66 Corvette Club
I think someone (perhaps me) should resize that t'stat pic before I post it again ...... firzt misteke today
Bob
St. Charles, MO
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,991
Likes: 5
From: The Pines South Jersey
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1604255
here is another thread that could spur some debate
here is another thread that could spur some debate
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 26,598
Likes: 0
From: Hampton, VA Yea, i'm a redneck... but you love it
Cruise-In 8-9 Veteran
aka/Trunk Monkey/Banned For Life/Corvette For Life
looks like a good idea, i will have to do that with my '84 next time i change the thermo.
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 13,717
Likes: 5
From: RI
I did this on my achieva because the temp would rocket to 220F and then back down to 195 and back again over and over. It would drive me crazy because I knew there was no air in the system, just the thermostat was a pos. Poor design. Well drilling a 1/32" hole in the thermostat fixed the issue, now it comes up from 100F to 195 with very very little swing.
I think 4 holes are way to much, it will never allow the thermo to heat up to the correct temperature. It would almost act like an open thermostat. I was told about this trick a while back from a gear head who taught me everything I know about wrenching.
Even he said it not a performance gain, but corrects for air bubbles in the system. He was right on the money......
I think 4 holes are way to much, it will never allow the thermo to heat up to the correct temperature. It would almost act like an open thermostat. I was told about this trick a while back from a gear head who taught me everything I know about wrenching.
Even he said it not a performance gain, but corrects for air bubbles in the system. He was right on the money......