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Get two gallions of Dex-Cool concentrate and 2 gallons of distilled water.
The FSM says to remove the knock sensors at the bottom of the block to remove all of the old coolant. Once you have the old stuff out, fill with fresh water and run to operating temp and drain all of that. If it still comes out dirty, do it again.
Then with everything buttoned up, add the two gallons of Dex-Cool and finish with the distilled water (you can find it at grocery stores for a buck a gallon). You should also remove the plastic overflow tank and dump out the old stuff, clean it and then refill with a 50-50 mix once you have the new coolant in.
It's also a good time to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses. If yours are original, they are now 12 years
thanks yall....but does anybody know about throttle body bypass??
You don't need anything, just reroute the hose from driver's side of the T/B to the right side line going under the fuel rail cover. You will actually have a formed 90* hose and two clamps left over, You don't even need to cut any hose, real easy job on the 95/96s, the 92-94s need a splice kit, 95-96 don't. Be sure you know how to bleed the air out properly or you will have overheating problems.
When I did my coolant bypass on my 95, I bought a kit. You remove the hoses from the TB and place a 5/8" short plastic pipe in them and use hose clamps. Use rubber caps on the TB fittings.
Have the 2 gallons of concentrated coolant and 2 gal of distilled water handy. Remove the drain plug on the bottom right of the radiator and drain the coolant out into a pan (empty as necesary).
There are 2 bleed screws. One under the TB and the other on the thermostat housing. Loosen these up as you add the new coolant/water. Have a rag handy to soak up the coolant that comes out.
Get two gallions of Dex-Cool concentrate and 2 gallons of distilled water.
The FSM says to remove the knock sensors at the bottom of the block to remove all of the old coolant. Once you have the old stuff out, fill with fresh water and run to operating temp and drain all of that. If it still comes out dirty, do it again.
Then with everything buttoned up, add the two gallons of Dex-Cool and finish with the distilled water (you can find it at grocery stores for a buck a gallon). You should also remove the plastic overflow tank and dump out the old stuff, clean it and then refill with a 50-50 mix once you have the new coolant in.
It's also a good time to replace the upper and lower radiator hoses. If yours are original, they are now 12 years
Do not use Dexcool unless your car has that in it now. Even then I would highly recommend flushing it all out and going to the 50/50 green. The bleed screw on the TB is easy to strip, be carefull with it.
For the TB bypass remove the passanger and driver side hoses from the TB and join them together with a double sided male adapter. I think I bought the pipe adapter at a local hardware store. As another option, some people run a new singal hose and remove the two seperate hoses.
This is a picture of a kit. The extra rubber hose is not necessay.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Jan 22, 2007 at 10:38 AM.
Do not use Dexcool unless your car has that in it now. Even then I would highly recommend flushing all out and going to the 50/50 green. The bleed screw on the TB is easy to strip, be carefull with it.
For the TB bypass remove the passanger and driver side hoses from the TB and join them together with a double sided male adapter. I think I bought the pipe adapter at a local hardware store. As another option, some people run a new singal hose and remove the two seperate hoses.
This is a picture of a kit. The extra rubber hose is not necessay.
well yall got me worred now.....i have no ideal on how to bleed the air out of the system.....any help im going to do this tomm (monday)...
Hopefully this picture will help. On the 95 there is only one bleed screw, which is on the t/stat housing and a slotted brass screw. Fill up the system, start car, wrap a rag around the bleeder to catch any spillage, open bleed screw until coolant comes out. Repeat a few minutes later. Then run engine to operating temp (t/stat opens) and repeat. Be sure surge tank (by firewall) is full and the overflow reservoir (front of pass side tire) is to proper level. T/B by pass also shows in the picture. You can just leave the lines at the T/B open, no need to cap them off, reroute the hose and it is done.
Good info. Did you guys see a big difference or at least a noticable one? I have a 96 CE and want to try this out, but wont bother if nothing is noticed. I also heard of surging problems when the car is cold, is this true?
Good info. Did you guys see a big difference or at least a noticable one? I have a 96 CE and want to try this out, but wont bother if nothing is noticed. I also heard of surging problems when the car is cold, is this true?
I did not notice any gains, but then I don't dyno for it. To me it is just one less piece of hose to have fail and 2 less clamps to leak. The surging problem is BS, no problems there either.