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I'm having a problem with my 1991 steering. The car seems to sway to the right then to the left. This happens mostly on the highway and does not happen all the timw. When it does happen, I feel the steering wheel turn a little to the right and the car "sways" that way then to the left and the car then "sways" that way. It actually feels if something is actually turning the the wheel with a suttle force. I wrote about this in the past (I could not find the post) and it was suggested that I may have a sway bar problem such as loose bolts or bad sway bar bushings. I have since change the bushings and made sure the bolts are tight but I still have the problem. Does anyone have any other suggetions?
197,000 miles on it. Last alignment was approx. 5 months ago. Tires are less than a year old. I went with a different brand of tire, but if I recall correctly the car did this somewhat before I the tires. Also, the sway really does not feel the "pull" you get when you have low tire pressure.
Last edited by hgoodwiniii; Feb 6, 2007 at 08:03 AM.
Jack your car up and put your hands at 3 o' clock and 9 o'clock on the front tire and try to pull towards you (back and forth). Any excess play?? If so it's most likely your tie rod ends. While it is jacked up you can also put your hands at 6 and 12 and check for any wheel bearing play.
Loosen the nuts holding the tire rods on the spindles and check them for play. I dismantled my suspension last night and I have a feeling the tie rod end was an original part with 242k miles on it. "Loose" doesn't even begin to describe what was going on there.
Check this stuff out. Most if it is a 'feel' test and visual inspection.
These cars can 'steer' from the front AND the back when something goes wrong so don't rule out the rear suspension components.
1) Tie Rod Ends as specified above.
2) Wheel Bearings Front and Rear
3) Ball Joints Top and Bottom
4) Control Arm Bushings
5) Rear DogBone Bushings
6) Rear 'Toe' Rod Ends
Take a look at the steering shaft u-Joints too, while you're looking.
Ball Joints, bushings are new. I'll check out the rest of the stuff this weekend. Also, someone suggested there may be a problem with the power steering gear. Can anyone give advice on this? Also, how difficult is it to change the unit? Thanks.
I have an update everyone. I let someone drive the car today and they are of the opinion that the discussed condition happens most of the time when the accelerator is initially pressed from a stand still and when you accelerate more while rolling. Any ideas?
I have an update everyone. I let someone drive the car today and they are of the opinion that the discussed condition happens most of the time when the accelerator is initially pressed from a stand still and when you accelerate more while rolling. Any ideas?
Problem sounds like it's in the rear.................but this is all pretty much speculation based on your description of the problem.....
Sounds like 'torque steer'. Check the REAR toe rod ends for looseness.
Both ends of them need to be checked.
THere's a mounting device that mounts them to the center of the rear, I can't visualize it at the moment but chack that too.
Check the Dog Bone bushings. Check anything that holds the rear suspension in place. Mostly that's the toe rods, the upper and lower links and their doggy bushings of which there are eight, four on each side.
Bingo. I want to give an update to my steering/swaying problem.I changed all the tie rod ends on my car but I have not driven it yet. They old ones were pretty shot after 198,000 miles. Also, I checked for looseness in all tires as recommended and low and behold the rear passenger tire is loose. It gives in all directions. Looks like the whole roter and tire has play. Sounds like the bearings are out? If so can the bearings be replaced and the old hub be rebult or is the only option to change the entire hub assembly? Thanks.
Can someone tell me if the spindle should be greased when replacing the sealed wheel hub? The GM service does not say so.
You don't have to grease the spindle end if that's what you're referring too. Just remove and replace the bearing hub assembly, you'll need a torx #55 and a 36mm socket to remove the old bearing hub assembly.