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The LT4 intake will bolt in place of a LT1 intake.
However, there will be problems, the LT4 intake ports are a good bit taller than the LT1.
The LT1 intake on a L98 is not a bolt on proposition as far as bolt pattern goes.
You can get the 4 corner bolts on, after you change the bolt angle by slotting, but that's it as far as a bolt on goes. The next bolt holes in from the ends, will have to be slotted, at a different angle about 5/8" in further. Then the stock center two bolt holes on each side will have to be discarded and 4 new bolt holes will have to be drilled.
Then there's the distributor hole, EGR holes, t'stat and housing, no water holes for the housing to attach to.
I knew about the distributor hole and I am aware of the reverse cooling, but I had thought the bolt pattern was the same. I stand corrected. I was wrong. I should have limited my comments to the subject, Gen I manifolds. Thank you.
As for a fact, I know, got two LT1 intakes sitting in the shop now, 1 coverted except for the distributor, and another started. I prefer to put the water outlets on the back, more room. EGR ports on the back will not clear a big dist, unless you cut them off back to the plenum.
As far as Gen I and Gen II head interchangability goes, you can do it, not labor cost effective, got to plug some deck holes and drill new water outlet holes on the corner to redirect the water holes, about 12-14 hours of labor on the 2nd pair done, more on the 1st try.
Cheaper to buy a set of heads that'll give much more flow, single plane EFI it and make more horsies.
That sounds about right. However, he is removing 76 cc heads and replacing them with 58 cc heads. A difference of 18 ccs. He is going to 128 heads rather than the 113s but all the numbers are the same, either way.
So basically I'm going to be running almost 11:1 compression ratio. Will my engine take that. I always stick with premium anyway so what else will I need to worry about??? And will a custom chip fix any problems I might get from the computer. I understand that running such a high compression ratio means that my engine will be just that much more sensative to little crap and I'll be walking a fine line. But people run 11:1 all the time so I'm not OVERLY worried.
Thanks fellas keep them coming
Last edited by teufelhund; Feb 15, 2007 at 12:24 AM.
So basically I'm going to be running almost 11:1 compression ratio. Will my engine take that. I always stick with premium anyway so what else will I need to worry about??? And will a custom chip fix any problems I might get from the computer. I understand that running such a high compression ratio means that my engine will be just that much more sensative to little crap and I'll be walking a fine line. But people run 11:1 all the time so I'm not OVERLY worried.
Thanks fellas keep them coming
If you go with a static compression ratio that high on a stockish cam with little duration/minimal overlap, your cylinder pressures will go through the roof. Then your motor may end up in knock/detonation land. With compression that high, I'd use a cam with more duration/overlap and that should keep it happy. A cam with something like 212/224 duration, 114 LSA should be good enough to bleed off the extra compression if you are indeed swapping to heads with much smaller combustion chambers. It should be pretty streetable with premium pump gas.
The heads will bolt right on with no problems, I'd definetly replace the valve seals first though, and I think you're gonna have to use center bolt valve covers.How many miles on the engine?
The heads will bolt right on with no problems, I'd definetly replace the valve seals first though, and I think you're gonna have to use center bolt valve covers.How many miles on the engine?
Thanks for the cam help. About the miles on the engine it was rebuilt about 10K ago but the body has ALOT of miles on her. I wouldn't even bother working on it but this was my present to myself from coming back from iraq so I want to keep it running and have it keep putting smiles on my face for a while. I know they rebuilt the bottom end but didn't do anything to the heads that's why I chose to go with the heads. I guess I just need to find a cam to help me out with the compression and have it all installed. What is the standard amount I can expect for a shop to do this work. I think I could handle the heads but the cam I've never done before and I really don't want to screw something up.
From: One day you're a Comet...the next day you're dust... Arkansas
If you are going forward with this, find a good builder(s) in your area with some race experience and get quotes in advance. Meet with them face to face and work with them on your cam selection. BTW, don't skimp on gasket, spring, or seal quality. Don't forget the full roller rockers. Get the best you can afford.
If you can do the heads...you can do the cam. One important step in doing the cam is to identify...each lifter, pushrod etc. and make sure they go back into the same location, if you're using them again. The only thing difficult about the cam is room. And making sure you get the timing marks right on, other than that it's a piece of cake.
If you can do the heads...you can do the cam. One important step in doing the cam is to identify...each lifter, pushrod etc. and make sure they go back into the same location, if you're using them again. The only thing difficult about the cam is room. And making sure you get the timing marks right on, other than that it's a piece of cake.
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