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I'm trying to adjust the rockers I just put in, couple of different ways to do it, but the one thing all the books agree on is use a breaker bar on the damper pulley bolt to turn the engine, well the bolt keeps loosening up. I tried bumping the starter but without a remote starter button I keep going too far, I tried tightening the bolt on the damper as tight as possible hoping it wouldn't loosen but as soon as I try to turn the crank it gets loose again..somebody must have a trick for this...help!
If you can get them close enough to start the car and get it up to temp. Go buy a set of rocker arm oil plugs. They clip onto the rockers and allow you to run the engine without spraying oil all over the place. Just dont rev it beyond idle. If you go this route, do one side at a time and you will need to loosen the nut while the engine is running. Listen for it to start clicking or tapping. At this point tighten it till you hear it stop and go another 1/4 turn. Repeat for the other 15.
The plugs can be purchased at advance auto or any auto parts store usually for under $20
Doing it by rotating the crank is the harder way but you can be sure to get them exactly where you want without a doubt. I've used both methods with success. Once I know I'm on the backside of the cam lobe I just tighten till I cant turn the pushrod by hand and go another 1/4 turn. Many people go another 3/4 turn. I try to keep mine on the loose side. YMMV.
If you can get them close enough to start the car and get it up to temp. Go buy a set of rocker arm oil plugs. They clip onto the rockers and allow you to run the engine without spraying oil all over the place. Just dont rev it beyond idle. If you go this route, do one side at a time and you will need to loosen the nut while the engine is running. Listen for it to start clicking or tapping. At this point tighten it till you hear it stop and go another 1/4 turn. Repeat for the other 15.
The plugs can be purchased at advance auto or any auto parts store usually for under $20
Doing it by rotating the crank is the harder way but you can be sure to get them exactly where you want without a doubt. I've used both methods with success. Once I know I'm on the backside of the cam lobe I just tighten till I cant turn the pushrod by hand and go another 1/4 turn. Many people go another 3/4 turn. I try to keep mine on the loose side. YMMV.
I'd just as soon do it with the crank, hate to take the chance of an oily mess. Just wish I could move the crank by hand. Thanks for the reply though.
When I had my chevelle, I had an old M/T valve cover that had a crack in it, I drilled holes just a little bigger than the socket used to adjust the rockers. That pretty much eliminated the oily mess so that you could adjust them while running.
Now when I put the solid lifter cam in, that didn't work, I don't remembeer it being a problem to move the crank, but it was a 4-spd, so I may have just put it in 4th and rolled the car.
Use the breaker bar and always turn clockwise. Go slow so you don't go to far. I used a 1/2'' ratchet since cranking room is short and sweet.
You do have all the plugs out, right ??
Use the breaker bar and always turn clockwise. Go slow so you don't go to far. I used a 1/2'' ratchet since cranking room is short and sweet.
You do have all the plugs out, right ??
Waiting for pics
If you measure the circumfrence of the damper, you can divide it into quarters(mark it) and have TDC for each cylinder. Takes some of the guess work out of it.
JMHO but turning the crank is really the hard way to do this.
I'm with Evil on this.
Except I don't even use the rocker 'blockers'.
Take a couple pieces of cardboard box and 'cram' them in there right above the exhaust manifolds.
Crank it up, adjust, adjust. Cut it off and install the valve cover.
If the cardboard starts smoking, you're taking too long, LOL.
Ditto for the other side. Takes about 5 minutes per side.
The 'running method' is probably more accurate because it guarantees the lifters are pumped up. An added benefit is this way allows you to 'hear' the rockers so you won't end up with one or two that may need additional adjustment.
With the engine in the car it's difficult to turn the crank bolt.
Another way is to get a remote starter switch to run the starter.
(you can use a couple of wires with aligator clips on the ends to clip to the atarter solenoid)
Crank it over until both valves are closed and adjust those two then go for the next ones. THis way takes about twice as long as the 'running method' but it still beats the heck outta turning the crankshaft manually.
I have found that when I want to turn the engine over, the simplest, lowest effort, less bending over, easiest, way is to put a socket with a ratchet on the alternator pulley nut, and turn clockwise. The "gear ratio" of the smaller alternator pulley requires more turns to get one turn of the crank pulley, but for the same reason the effort is reduced. This way you don't stand a chance of over tightening or breaking the damper bolt. Slick eh?