I have a 93 Corvette with an Automatic. Here are the mods so far.
3.73 rears and a 2800 stahl with a deep pan and trans cooler.
It has a k.n. filter a cut lid, flowmaster exhaust and an air foil
What would be the next step ?

 

Make a lot of money, because you'll need it.

Rich down here has a ported heads/LT4 Hotcam car that dips into the 11s. His engine makes about the same power as mine that turns 12.5s, but he's got the rest of the chassis setup that makes his car launch. He's running A4, High stall, 4.09s with ET streets, and replacing his broken D44.

 

 

Spray it with a 150 shot and you will be deep in the 11's.

 

You can get there with a awesome H/C set up. Youll need a big cam, Drag radials, Headers. A 3200 stall would of been better for 11s. I run 12.5 with my set up in profile and I have a small cam and a 2400 stall.

 

A 100 shot 12.10 to 11.70's and a 125 shot 11.20's Barry Grant system.

 

O.K. I am liking the nitrous idea, how much does it cost ? I see kits for sale and they're not alot of $ but is that all you need ? Does someone make a complete set up for my car ? If I do it, I want to do it right.
Thanks !!

 

So here is a purely ignorant question. Is bolting on a 150 shot NOS system and doing nothing else going to result in a blown up engine?

 

My vote is for nitrous, here is nice info for ya:

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vader86/

Besides the kit u also need,
purge system
blow valve opener with tube
MSD window switch or similer
Bottle heater
nitrous gauge
Fuel pressure switch 30-50 psi. like hobb or even made by many nitrous makers, if fuel pressure drops <30 than nitrous will cut off right away good thing.
some relays.
Ur's is LT1 so u cant retard timing so u need MSD retard box but for this u need MSD 6al or equivalent.

Need 1 step colder spark plug like ngk b8efs or equivalent

and thats it.

If u want to little further than instead of window switch install a progressive controller PC which is good system, for eg if u wanna spray 150 shot than using PC u can activate 75 shot at 3000 rpm than another 75 shot at 4000 it does by PC u need to set those rpm, min 3000 rpm thats where wot kicks in. hope this helps.

 

Mr Peabody asks a legitimate question. This is how we learn.

With what you have done already, Mackey dipped into the 11's with some head work and a cam.

I ran a 12.50 with the stock LT1, 2800 stall, 3.45 gears and the lightweight wheels and drag radials.

Race weight is 3434, and of course some excellent weather.

A 75 shot is all I would need to hit 11's.

 

You do not need more that the nos5151 kit contains.
Timing retards, purge valves, bottle heaters, etc are all nice options to have, but not absolutely nescessary. I have run spray since 1996 and have had good luck. Rule of thumb is to pull 1-1 1/2 degrees of timing per 50 hp. Nos jets the system so rich that I rarely pulled timing when I was running 10:1 compression.

 

Beware of the addiction of NOS. Red5 once told me: "NOS is like a cheap hooker, you know you shouldn't hit it all the time, but you will anyway."

 

Are you asking this question or implying that I did ? I was asking what else is needed and if someone makes a complete kit with everything included. Zex offers a kit with a digital controller for the LT1 which is supposed to control the fuel as well.

 

another 300 HP.

 

I have the ZEX 125hp dry kit. It is supposed to be one of the easiest kits to install. It comes with a management unit that monitors bottle pressure and adjusts fuel accordingly. It also taps into the TPS sensor and learns the voltage curve, only activating at WOT. So some of the saftey features are already built in to the kit. It comes with an in-line fuel booster to increase the fuel pressure. The only drawback to the dry kit is that it only goes up to a 125hp shot so I may have to upgrade in the future to a wet kit. You will still need a heater, blowout tube, and pressure gauge. I also bought a purge kit for it but it's not completely necessary. I upgraded the injectors to 24# SVO's just as an extra precaution, but also not totaly necessary. I pulled the timing by uploading a tune from PCMFORLESS. I have two tunes I can switch between in about 3 minutes time. One NA and the other for nitrous. Even if you permenantly leave in a tune or chip for nitrous you will only loose about 7hp or so when not spraying. My whole setup cost about 2k. I'm adding pillar gauges which will raise the price some more. I am now looking to go with ported heads and cam for more power but I would have wanted the nitrous regardless. The only bad thing about nitrous is the $42/bottle refill and the fact that it runs out.

 

what do you mean by cut lid?

 

The air cleaner lid has a small opening in it from the factory. You cut it open and it exposes more of the filter. The idea behind it is more air= more power. Some say it works some say it doesn't but it costs nothing but 15 minutes of your time to do it.

 

WOW! We came full cicle.

 

Can you tell and show me how you did it, like a diagram of what to cut and all, thnks

 

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1102...39559089bZkBPQ