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From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
Originally Posted by C4Techie
If the ECT sensor circuit is fully open, the ECM will see the temp as -40 F. That will cause the ECM to fatten up the mixture, but rather than throw money at it, why not test the ECT sensor?
I do intend to test the ECT, but by the time you dig your way in to the ECT location, pull it out, and test the resistance at a few different temp points, you may as well have a spare on hand to replace it - it's a $12 item. But I do want to know if the unit is bad so I have an idea whether or not I found the problem, so an ECT test is absolutely in order.
I do intend to test the ECT, but by the time you dig your way in to the ECT location, pull it out, and test the resistance at a few different temp points, you may as well have a spare on hand to replace it - it's a $12 item. But I do want to know if the unit is bad so I have an idea whether or not I found the problem, so an ECT test is absolutely in order.
I have tested this sensor in my 86 without removing it, assuming you mean to ohm test it.
Just remove the connector and probe with the ohm meter leads. You have to know what the engine temp to see if it matches the resistance. I did this with a cold engine and a hot engine.
From: At my Bar drinking and wrenching in Lafayette Colorado
RRT -
That was a good suggestion. I probed it in place, shooting the actual temps with my IR gun. The resistance values were off, so I replaced it, and the new unit shows correct values. I also just finished replacing the ox sensor and verifying my TPS values. I checked my A.I.R system/diverter, and I'm not getting any injection into the exhaust manifolds once the system goes closed loop - appears to be operating nominally. I'm going to stick the LM-1 probe in it and go drive around to see if my A/F numbers look any better now... Any bets...?