more crank hub questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Tyrone GA
more crank hub questions
I am presently chasing oil leaks on my 92 a4 coupe. My next project is the front crank seal. Before I get into this I would like to ask to questions.
1) What is the success rate with the speedy sleeve? Should I just go ahead and replace the hub?
2) I thought that it might be eaiser if I put the hub in the oven and layed a piece of dry ice on the crank to get the hub back on. Has any one tried installing the hub this way? I rebuild turbine engines and this is the way they are put together as the rotors are mostly interferance fit.
Thanks in advance
1) What is the success rate with the speedy sleeve? Should I just go ahead and replace the hub?
2) I thought that it might be eaiser if I put the hub in the oven and layed a piece of dry ice on the crank to get the hub back on. Has any one tried installing the hub this way? I rebuild turbine engines and this is the way they are put together as the rotors are mostly interferance fit.
Thanks in advance
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
The Speedi-Sleeve, when used properly, is an excellent solution.
It depends on the depth of the groove in the hub.
If you intend to use the Speedi-Sleeve with deeper grooves, it is always best to use a "filler" to support the sleeve before installing the sleeve.
There are several products that can be used as a filler -- JB Weld is the first one that comes to mind.
Just smooth it over and let it cure before putting the sleeve on.
I prefer the stainless steel sleeves.
Tom Piper
It depends on the depth of the groove in the hub.
If you intend to use the Speedi-Sleeve with deeper grooves, it is always best to use a "filler" to support the sleeve before installing the sleeve.
There are several products that can be used as a filler -- JB Weld is the first one that comes to mind.
Just smooth it over and let it cure before putting the sleeve on.
I prefer the stainless steel sleeves.
Tom Piper
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 628
Likes: 6
Speedi Sleeve worked for me!
As for putting the hub back on, I have always just used a longer bolt with the regular 'washer' and installed the hub up to 3/4 of the way in. Then swap bolts for the regular hub bolt and tighten her up...!
Good luck,
Andy.
As for putting the hub back on, I have always just used a longer bolt with the regular 'washer' and installed the hub up to 3/4 of the way in. Then swap bolts for the regular hub bolt and tighten her up...!
Good luck,
Andy.
Racer
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 443
Likes: 0
From: Pueblo Colorado
A
I used to use this method also untill i had a stock bolt snap off in the crank snout. Now i ussually put the hub in the oven at 250 carefully carry it out to the garage (DO NOT let the ol' lady see you takin her mitts out to the garage!) and use a sealed roller bearing installer i found in Summit catalog...after carefully tapping in place with rubber dead-blow mallet. This seems to be the smoothest method i have found and is why i save engine work till winter when possible. Early morning year round is usually cool enough to help the install.
s for putting the hub back on, I have always just used a longer bolt with the regular 'washer' and installed the hub up to 3/4 of the way in. Then swap bolts for the regular hub bolt and tighten her up...!
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,504
Likes: 4
From: Mexico Beach FL
......2) I thought that it might be eaiser if I put the hub in the oven and layed a piece of dry ice on the crank to get the hub back on. Has any one tried installing the hub this way? I rebuild turbine engines and this is the way they are put together as the rotors are mostly interferance fit.......
It has a ball-bearing thrust bearing and is made to assemble in that tight area; it makes easy work of the job. With it, there is no heating and freezing necessary.
You will find many people that have done the job without it, but you will also find several people that have ruined the threads in the crank because they didn't use it.
The question is: how lucky do you feel?
Tom Piper
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 12,264
Likes: 88
From: O'Fallon Missouri
I had no success with the sleeve, and eventually replaced the hub.
The hub goes back on fairly easy without heat/ice. I use grade 8 bolts to run the hub down. Then reinstall a new stock bolt, and torque.
The hub goes back on fairly easy without heat/ice. I use grade 8 bolts to run the hub down. Then reinstall a new stock bolt, and torque.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 628
Likes: 6
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 49
Likes: 0
From: Tyrone GA
Thank you for your replies. Because I may be selling and or trading the car and getting a c5 I did not want to invest over 200 for the Kent-Moore tool. After doing alot of research it seems the only thing to be careful of are the threads in the crank. I will buy a new hub so i can make sure that my setup regular puller will work safely. To put it back on I will try the Ice/heat method and let everyone know how it works.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,841
Likes: 19
From: CLT, North Carolina
LT1 crankshaft snout is soft cast iron, not case hardened 4340 like a race crank and the threads will not take much abuse. Don't pull the hub on with a bolt. Lacking the Kent Moore tool try to get a good stud and good hard nut and washers and better yet a torrington bearing set-up.
