Or a bypass module that one could install in a discrete location with a switched ground so as to disable the system at the owners discretion per my previous post. But GM even manager to F*** that up in the early 90s.

www.vatssucks.com - yes it does!

 

Partial Quote from 92LRC:
There is no easy fix for VATS.
_________________________________

There is no easy fix for almost anything that breaks on your car!
Instead of wasting your time and energy complaining about your VATS, find out what isn't working right and FIX it, then get on with your life.
I've had far more serious repairs required on my 87, some multiple times. I fixed them or had them fixed and continued driving it every day. If something breaks tomorrow, I'll fix it. If this puny problem is so disabling to you, sell your car and buy a newer one. Older cars are prone to problems from time to time, parts don't last forever!!!!!!
Continued whining without fixing the problem is the mark of an immature person and guess what.....your VATS still won't be reliable. Fix it already and enjoy your Corvette, they are worth it.

 

The door lock is mechanical, and has nothing to do with key resistance. If the door lock isn't working properly you'll know it since the security system will remain armed and the the horn will begin blowing when you open the car door. Since you made no mention of the alarm sounding, your door lock cylinder and associated wiring is fine.

VATS is very straight-forward on '90 and up cars. There are 4 things that can cause a VATS no-start issue...

1) Bad ignition key
2) Bad ignition key cylinder (due to worn contacts)
3) wiring / connectors
4) CCM

If GM put a separate switch in the glovebox, hidden or not, thieves would know about it practically as the cars arrived on the the showroom floor. That information would be readily available at the library (given it was ~1986 when VATS first appeared), or in the service manuals. Of course even if GM ignored the obvious and tried to "hide a box" somewhere, the first owner who misplaced the VATS key would cry foul and then that approach would be crucified as well. Hmmmm...from a high theft rate to practically 0, lower insurance rates...I think that given the technology of the time VATS was an ideal solution.

Since your IP works, your CCM is fundamentally ruled out....less than a 1 in 1000 chance IMO.

That leaves wiring or the ignition key cylinder which, by your own admission, is a mechanical malfunction that you said you can deal with.

For all the calories wasted on this debate, you could have fixed it by now.

 

For what it's worth, here's something you can do in a pinch...Take a paperclip and unfold it. Use the end to pry the contacts in towards the middle of the ignition cylinder. Do this gently; if you break the contacts, you're out of luck. This allows the contacts to make better, uh, contact with the pellet on your key. Worked for me until I disabled the system.