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On my '86 I made some pieces for the front out of some hard rubber stuff and never had to remove the spring. Split both lower ball joints and removed the spring clamps. Speaking of clamps you'll have to mod yours because after you remove that big hunk of rubber, the spring will now be closer to the frame and wont tighten. Got it down about 7/8 in front. In the rear I took the shims on the rear spring and moved them from top to the bottom and turned the nuts on the bolts down as far as I could and still get the c- pin in. Car looks great.
Can you double check the first part number please- the number you posted doesn't come up on there website. Thanks
I checked and thats the # on the reciept..I went to my local store and got these.Maybe give them a call and they can help over the phone their exact description is (8.8 HCS M14-2.0 x 280P) $4.82 each
The lowered look is COOL!!! but makes your vette very unstreetable. Every steep driveway and speedbump will be a challenge. Think twice before you do this laborious job....and look under your vette and you will notice that the lowest point behind the front tires is not the frame but the fiberglass foot-wells....CRUNCH!!!!
Coil-overs are the way to go. Lower as much as desired for autocrossing, car shows and just looking cool....then raise back up to a streetable height when you're sick of driving cautiously into every driveway or speed-bump!
Last edited by BlackRocket; Mar 27, 2007 at 12:40 AM.
I hear all these negatives about lowering all the way around, what about lowering the rear say.. an inch, maybe 1.5 or even 2? I am noticing now with my new wheels the HUGE space in the rear, the front isn't too bad though.
Wouldn't that significantly enhance the look without the problems?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by bluedevil99
Wouldn't that significantly enhance the look without the problems?
Yes it will help a ton. Most guys just drop the rear an inch because it's easy.
I don't see how its possible that lowering the car will worsen ride quality. As long as it's not hitting the bump stops during driving, most drivers will notice no difference whatsoever in handling or driveability. Changes in roll center or anti-squat are inconsequential to them. I think my car handles pretty damn good, I dropped in 1 inch in front, and about 1.5 in rear.
This all assumes you get an alignment afterwards, as dropping the rear will have a measurable effect on rear toe and camber.
I'd like to hear anyone complaining about their ride quality back it up with anything coherent. These are probably the same people saying their car felt faster with an airfoil on it.
On my 93 it sits real high in the back for stock, if I only lower the rear, with a 1' drop, will it be a noticeable view? will it be even with the front?
I lowered the rear 1 5/8 in. This still gave some rake front to back.
This took several adjustments to get it right these cars settle quiet a bit after compressing the spring so after every adj. would take it down the road and come back and re-measure. Couple of times it settled over an inch..
I don't see how its possible that lowering the car will worsen ride quality. As long as it's not hitting the bump stops during driving, most drivers will notice no difference whatsoever in handling or driveability. Changes in roll center or anti-squat are inconsequential to them. I think my car handles pretty damn good, I dropped in 1 inch in front, and about 1.5 in rear.
This all assumes you get an alignment afterwards, as dropping the rear will have a measurable effect on rear toe and camber.
I dropped mine over 2" all the way around with the rear being slightly higher. I can't fit 2 fingers in between the front tire and fender, it's low. No difference in ride quality. Didn't get harsher. I did notice a difference in roll during cornering with the lower center of gravity but even that is minimal. Yes get an alignment. Only problem with lowering is being very careful where you drive. I can live with that.
For the rear I just picked up some 12" bolts and nyloc nuts at the hardware store for like $6. The nuts haven't moved in almost 4 years of being on there so I don't think you really need to have the pins. For the front you don't need to buy the wedges either. Just drop the spring and cut the rubber off. You may want to find some kind of thin material to put in there so the spring isn't on the frame.
Agreed, my car was done before I bought it but it doesn't have the cotter pins. This concerned me when I first saw it but it hasn't moved EVER - last time I put it back together I did put some loctite on it for safekeeping.