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You are better off ordering them from one of the Vette shops like Ecklers. They are cheap and the ones from the hardware stores do not have the holes for the cotter pins.
You are better off ordering them from one of the Vette shops like Ecklers. They are cheap and the ones from the hardware stores do not have the holes for the cotter pins.
The places I have seen selling them don't use cotter pins either. As far as I know, Advanced Auto doesn't stock nuts and bolts.
For the rear I just picked up some 12" bolts and nyloc nuts at the hardware store for like $6. The nuts haven't moved in almost 4 years of being on there so I don't think you really need to have the pins. For the front you don't need to buy the wedges either. Just drop the spring and cut the rubber off. You may want to find some kind of thin material to put in there so the spring isn't on the frame.
Think hard before you lower your C4. I bought mine lowered and must admit, it looks mean. It looks better than a stock height. BUT keep a stash of front chin spoilers handy. In the 40K miles I have had mine I have replaced the chin spoiler 5 times....it hits everything, road kill is the worst. I can push an empty 20oz. Coke bottle down the road with the spoiler. On mine, the convertors hit, the exhaust hits, the frame hits almost EVERY parking curb, my front tires rub the hood (I run 275/40/17s on 9.5" Amolds) and the ride height is now 1.5 inches closer to ground so you bottom out a little sooner. The worst thing is I smashed the drain plug for my ZF on a speed bump in a parking garage. If you can handle the cons of lowering it, the pros MORE than make up for it.
The previous owner bought that kit from MidAmerica....bolts for rear and wedges for front. He said the whole kits was around $40.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by vetteboy95
For the front you don't need to buy the wedges either. Just drop the spring and cut the rubber off. You may want to find some kind of thin material to put in there so the spring isn't on the frame.
Anything less than the aftermarket wedges and your spring will rub against the frame.
The frame is recessed about 1/4" where the wedges go, so you need at least that, plus extra for spring movement, plus extra because the wedges will flatten out.
Anything less than the aftermarket wedges and your spring will rub against the frame.
The frame is recessed about 1/4" where the wedges go, so you need at least that, plus extra for spring movement, plus extra because the wedges will flatten out.
Would it be best to leave some of the rubber on the spring then? I am thinking of lowering soon and am wondering what would be the best route. I'd like one inch or a little over in the drop, not over two inches.
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by Aardwolf
Would it be best to leave some of the rubber on the spring then? I am thinking of lowering soon and am wondering what would be the best route. I'd like one inch or a little over in the drop, not over two inches.
Yes, put the entire wedge on the spring. It may work without the shim, I forget whether I had to add that back in or not.. You will only get about 5/8" drop from the wedges, and that's after the suspension settles and if your bushings aren't siezed up. You can get about twice that by cutting the pads off the ends of the springs. Make sure you still have some rubber left to protect it from the aluminum. Anything more will require coilovers.
The rear bolts needed can be metric or 9/16".. You'll find neither in those lengths at your local hardware store. The ones sold in the kit also come with a nyloc nut that doesn't come loose. You could probably drop the rear anywhere up to 2" with the bolts, and its adjustable unlike the front.
Yes, put the entire wedge on the spring. It may work without the shim, I forget whether I had to add that back in or not.. You will only get about 5/8" drop from the wedges, and that's after the suspension settles and if your bushings aren't siezed up. You can get about twice that by cutting the pads off the ends of the springs. Make sure you still have some rubber left to protect it from the aluminum. Anything more will require coilovers.
The rear bolts needed can be metric or 9/16".. You'll find neither in those lengths at your local hardware store. The ones sold in the kit also come with a nyloc nut that doesn't come loose. You could probably drop the rear anywhere up to 2" with the bolts, and its adjustable unlike the front.
Do you think it would be best to leave the shims alone and just trim the ends? This would take less work then messing around the shims right?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
No, because once you get that far, you are 10 minutes from removing the spring.
In fact, you can slide the spring all the way out to one side, work that wedge, slide it the other way, work on the other side, you never really have to fish it out, but again, you could just remove it and put it on your workbench instead.
No, because once you get that far, you are 10 minutes from removing the spring.
In fact, you can slide the spring all the way out to one side, work that wedge, slide it the other way, work on the other side, you never really have to fish it out, but again, you could just remove it and put it on your workbench instead.
Yes, put the entire wedge on the spring. It may work without the shim, I forget whether I had to add that back in or not.. You will only get about 5/8" drop from the wedges, and that's after the suspension settles and if your bushings aren't siezed up. You can get about twice that by cutting the pads off the ends of the springs. Make sure you still have some rubber left to protect it from the aluminum. Anything more will require coilovers.
The rear bolts needed can be metric or 9/16".. You'll find neither in those lengths at your local hardware store. The ones sold in the kit also come with a nyloc nut that doesn't come loose. You could probably drop the rear anywhere up to 2" with the bolts, and its adjustable unlike the front.
I did this about 4 years ago.
For the front when I was researching and reading on this forum there was talk of just cutting off the rubber by the mounts and off the spring ends and then putting it back in like that. That's what I did. It gave me 2-3 inches of drop. I can't even get two finger widths between the tire and fender. Looking back on it I probably would have found something thin to put between those spots but I still wouldn't buy the kit because it doesn't give the drop I wanted for all of the work thats involved. Someone on here recently mentioned a thin strong material for this but I can't remember what the name is. In saying that I haven't had any problems NOT having anything in there either.
For the rear, I did find 12" bolts in a store. I don't remember if they are 9/16 or the metric equivelant but one of the two. It took some looking but I did find them. It might have been at Ace Hardware. I also took shims out so it allowed a big drop.
For the record if I had the $$$ for coilovers I would definitely go that route.
to lower the front i know they sell wedges but for lowering the rear what is needed?
Just did my rear the bolts are not commonly found at hardware stores or auto parts.I got mine from Fastenal you can order them online or go to your local store.The bolts need to be grade 8 or better and they are 14mm.Here's the part# from fastenal 38997 locknuts are 1140175.
Just did my rear the bolts are not commonly found at hardware stores or auto parts.I got mine from Fastenal you can order them online or go to your local store.The bolts need to be grade 8 or better and they are 14mm.Here's the part# from fastenal 38997 locknuts are 1140175.