C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1993 OptiSpark

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:26 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Desert1957
I like this set-up to replace the Opti.

http://www.delteq.com/opti_pricing.htm

Desert
Thats the conversion I was talking about! Thanks!

do this it is good!
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:42 AM
  #22  
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All of the advice above it good, but can I ask the first question that I didn't see asked? Why do you think it's your Optispark?

What are your symptoms? Many on here are quick to point to the Optispark as the source of all LT1 evils but it's not always the case. It's an expensive and time consuming fix for a problem that may be plugs, wires, ignition module, fuel injectors, etc. I changed mine twice in the first two years I had it, and neither time was it actually the optispark.

And here's a shameless plug...I have a Meziere electric WP that I'm selling for $120 if you need one It's in the C4 for sale section.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 11:49 AM
  #23  
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Well 85k on the stock opti from what I know. When I have anybody around here that seems to know their vettes always says opti. If the car has been sitting for a while, the motor has to turn over alot of times to start. But if warmed up, and you turn off, then right back on, instant start. Not to mention, downshifting and gunning it on the highway just doesnt have the pull it should at high rpm.

Does the fact that the car have forced induction (vortech) have any matter here?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by RoperC4
Well 85k on the stock opti from what I know. When I have anybody around here that seems to know their vettes always says opti. If the car has been sitting for a while, the motor has to turn over alot of times to start. But if warmed up, and you turn off, then right back on, instant start. Not to mention, downshifting and gunning it on the highway just doesnt have the pull it should at high rpm.

Does the fact that the car have forced induction (vortech) have any matter here?
That doesn't sound like an opti problem. More like a fuel related problem.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 01:00 PM
  #25  
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Thats what I thought. But I keep getting people disagreeing with me. I really just want a reliable car that is putting out over 400hp like it should be. I do not want to dog on my car but I intend on high performance. Would computer diagnostic like at a dyno shop help me locate a fuel related problem or opti?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:05 PM
  #26  
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accel unit is cheap, Oil-lite bushings dont sound good to me.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:09 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by clf93lt1
accel unit is cheap, Oil-lite bushings dont sound good to me.
What?
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:56 PM
  #28  
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See, STL and I may have just saved you $600.

What happens at high RPM? Does the car stutter or miss? Often this is a sign of spark plug wires needing replacement. Check them thoroughly. Lower RPM misses or low power can often be attributed to bad spark plugs. Have you pulled one and ispected it?

The easiest and most reliable way to check for a bad opti is to read the trouble codes. If you have a code 16 or 31 (I may be off, someone confirm or correct me please) then it's a 99% chance it's an opti failure. If you don't have access to a tech tool you can check codes with the check engine light by grounding the ALDL connector under your dash. There are a ton of write ups on how to do this if you search on the tech tips.

To see if it's a fuel problem pull the fuel pump relay and spray ether into the intake and see if the car runs the same. Just don't catch anything on fire...I did that once and had to pour my beer on it to quench the fire
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 02:59 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by RoperC4
Does the fact that the car have forced induction (vortech) have any matter here?
It shouldn't affect the soptispark. But it could support STL's suggestion. If you're getting more air and not enough fuel at high RPM then you'll run lean. Not good.

How are your injectors? Do you have a temperature guage? Check the temp at every cylinder (right at the exhaust manifold). If some are running colder than others you could have a bad injector.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:22 PM
  #30  
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No i will be new into checking all these injectors and everything. my last 4 wheel vehicle was carbureted and I needed not deal with electronics either, everything but my alarm and gauges were mechanical.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:44 PM
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Do a simple fuel pressure leak down test. The trouble starting may be from lack of fuel pressure. It could be as simple as a fuel pressure regulator or a bad valve in the fuel pump.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 03:56 PM
  #32  
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Ok. I just now did my air filter recharge kit. Its amazing the car got any air as well. The thing was covered with half an inch of grime. (not due to my neglect, I just bought this car 2 weeks ago). Im about to put the filter back on, hopefully some improvement there too.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by RoperC4
Ok. I just now did my air filter recharge kit. Its amazing the car got any air as well. The thing was covered with half an inch of grime. (not due to my neglect, I just bought this car 2 weeks ago). Im about to put the filter back on, hopefully some improvement there too.
You're on the right track, even if that's not the problem. Start small and eliminate this kind of thing before jumping in and spending a bunch of money replacing parts that aren't bad. Keep in mind these cars are 10-15 years old, things go bad like sensors and wiring. Expensive things break, too, but hopefully you get lucky and we find another problem other than the opti.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:16 PM
  #34  
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I feel like I wasted alot of peoples time helping me out. That air filter.....man, it was a wonder the car could start. Its a cold air K&N going up, its got a supercharger and all, but the grime on this filter, was insane, had to run the recharge kit through it twice, and clean it out for at least half an hour and i was still getting crap out. Long story short, car starts fine now and is a beast out of the hole. Still feel like its missing some power running on the highway, but i dont really know because I didnt want to just beat the hell out of my car as soon as I saw improvement in performance. Where should I go next? Plugs, Wires? Dyno?

Also, what Kind of beneficial information can the dyno people give me? Here is where I will be taking it:

http://www.real-performance-motorsports.com/
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:22 PM
  #35  
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One side note - If you up grade to the newer vented opti the cam pin that drives the opti has to be changed. Do not allow the installer to pull the cam to accomplish this as the main bearings are quite sensetive and can be easily contaminated. Then if this happens you need to pull the engine and do an overhaul. Speaking from expensive experience.
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:37 PM
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Things to do now.... oh the things to do. How much should that dyno and diagnostics run me? Can you guys tell me what is a good deal and what is a rip? From what I hear these guys im going to are really good.
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