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... and had a hard time staying running. ('85 43+, 68k.)
This is a surprise to me, considering how nicely it was running the last few days. I was on my way home from a 40 mile drive. As I was about to make a turn, the engine stalled. I tried to restart. It would run a few seconds and die. It would rev just fine, but not idle one bit. No codes!
(Note: It idled fine for me when I ran some tests this evening.)
Recent work over the winter:
IAC - Corrected hunting idle and is steady @ 700rpm warm now.
CAI
Underdrive pulleys
AFPR - 40psi primed, 36psi idling.
Diaphram - Old one was losing its rubber coating! 37 psi max.
Radiator
Radiator hoses
Alternator
160 Stat - May be causing open/closed loop issues... Move to a 180?
And:
Fuel pump - 1 year ago
Dist cap/coil - 1 year ago
Rotor - 1 year ago
Wires - 1 year ago
Plugs - 1 year ago
Module - 1 year ago
What could this be???
There is a chance that I have a questionable oil sending unit. I have a slight oil leak somewhere between the engine & trany. Looking for a rack to get a peek. The oil sender may have dropped the idle psi rating to under 4psi. That would cut the fuel pump. Keeping it @ 1000 rpm once it started got me home. It would start easily, but die after a few seconds.
The oil sender may have dropped the idle psi rating to under 4psi. That would cut the fuel pump. Keeping it @ 1000 rpm once it started got me home. It would start easily, but die after a few seconds.
Thoughts?
There is no connection between anything in the oil system and the ECM. The only way low oil pressure will affect the running of the fuel pump, is if you have a bad fuel pump relay. Trouble shoot the relay, it might be the problem.
There are sites that claim if the oil sender drops below 4psi that a switch will cut the fuel pump. Is this true, or 'kinda' true, or not at all?
How would I troubleshoot the relay? I'm not entirely sure what relays are what. There are a couple large relays on the DS of the distributor on the firewall. Is that it?
From: San Diego , CA Double Yellow DirtBags 1985..Z51..6-speed
Originally Posted by williammackean
There are sites that claim if the oil sender drops below 4psi that a switch will cut the fuel pump. Is this true, or 'kinda' true, or not at all?
Nope. It's 100% b.s.
When it has over 4 psi, the oil sender will power the fuel pump through the "off" contacts of the fuel pump relay, which can happen only if the ECM is not turning on the relay. The relay would have to be in pieces for neither to power the pump. And it would never prime the system or start to begin with.
Relay isn't your problem.
Also, a 160 stat will not cause open loop issues, that's another myth.
Last edited by CentralCoaster; Mar 22, 2007 at 10:22 AM.
I would hate to say it but I will anyways. A flaky connection to the MAF or a bad MAF itself will cause an immediate stall. In my case, sometimes there were MAF codes, other times there were none. If you restart it again, the car would idle but as soon as you tap the gas pedal, you'd stall it again. I'd check the MAF connector first.
One way is to jumper +12Vdc to ALDL pin G, lower left. This will apply power through the relay in case it is in the Off position.
I beleive the '85 will run with the MAF disconnected, indicating a bad MAF. I tried this test a few years ago and my '88 would NOT run with the MAF disconnected.
I tried this test a few years ago and my '88 would NOT run with the MAF disconnected.
I can't see how that is possible. I definitely know that my car will run with the MAF disconnected. When I introduce a vacuum leak while running MAFless, e.g. unplugging the brake booster hose, the car will stall out immediately. When restarted with a vacuum leak, the idle would be high, surge up and down and lope a bit. I'd guess you have a vacuum leak somewhere...