How to get H2O pump off LT1
Hi all,
I had a water leak and thought it was coming from the pump. So I took all the bolts out and attempted to pull the pump off its drive coupling. NO GO. How do you move it forward to disengage the coupler. I did not want to pry on it against the engine components so here I am looking for info.
While contemplating how to disengage it...I decided to pull the front cover off the pump...GUESS WHAT...the bottom of the cover was leaking so it appears all I would have needed was a new O-ring.
However, now that the pump gaskets are loose...I need to pull the pump off. anyone have tips to do this or pictures of how to pry/break the pump loose.
TIA for any help.
Tom
I had a water leak and thought it was coming from the pump. So I took all the bolts out and attempted to pull the pump off its drive coupling. NO GO. How do you move it forward to disengage the coupler. I did not want to pry on it against the engine components so here I am looking for info.
While contemplating how to disengage it...I decided to pull the front cover off the pump...GUESS WHAT...the bottom of the cover was leaking so it appears all I would have needed was a new O-ring.
However, now that the pump gaskets are loose...I need to pull the pump off. anyone have tips to do this or pictures of how to pry/break the pump loose.
TIA for any help.
Tom
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Are you aware that the LTx pumps have six bolts and not just four as on other SBCs? The other two are recessed and shorter, so if you don't know they're there, it'd be easy to miss them.
Yes, I have the new pump ready to put on so I knew there were 6 bolts. I am just having trouble leaning over the car and trying to get it to disengage from the coupler. any suggestions. Thanks.
I'd just tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.
Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
I'd just tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.
Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
.. and here is pic of the coupler orientation:
Ok, thanks for the reply and the tips. I will try in the morning. If I were to use two large flat prybar type bars SHOULD it just pop forward. Is it just the O rings and spline groove that is the resistance I am having.
I can wobble it up/down and side/side a 16th of an inch (guess) or at least I know it is not the gaskets holding it to the block.
Tomorrow is another day...its been on blocks 4 weeks or so and just drained it today and tried to get it removed. Can you use the old Oring but no new one came with the new pump. is the Oring specific from GM or can I take the old to Napa and size it accordingly. Thanks all, till tomorrow. Tom
I can wobble it up/down and side/side a 16th of an inch (guess) or at least I know it is not the gaskets holding it to the block.
Tomorrow is another day...its been on blocks 4 weeks or so and just drained it today and tried to get it removed. Can you use the old Oring but no new one came with the new pump. is the Oring specific from GM or can I take the old to Napa and size it accordingly. Thanks all, till tomorrow. Tom
no, the coupler is a "slip" fit, not compression fit. This should not be a point of resistance. If you have all 6 bolts removed, I am betting that someone used some heavy duty gasket sealant on previous installation. You should be able to wiggle it up and down while pulling forward to remove. Pry bars shouldn't be needed on a job like this.....













