C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

How to get H2O pump off LT1

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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:39 PM
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Default How to get H2O pump off LT1

Hi all,
I had a water leak and thought it was coming from the pump. So I took all the bolts out and attempted to pull the pump off its drive coupling. NO GO. How do you move it forward to disengage the coupler. I did not want to pry on it against the engine components so here I am looking for info.

While contemplating how to disengage it...I decided to pull the front cover off the pump...GUESS WHAT...the bottom of the cover was leaking so it appears all I would have needed was a new O-ring.

However, now that the pump gaskets are loose...I need to pull the pump off. anyone have tips to do this or pictures of how to pry/break the pump loose.
TIA for any help.
Tom
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 06:46 PM
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Are you aware that the LTx pumps have six bolts and not just four as on other SBCs? The other two are recessed and shorter, so if you don't know they're there, it'd be easy to miss them.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:05 PM
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Yes, I have the new pump ready to put on so I knew there were 6 bolts. I am just having trouble leaning over the car and trying to get it to disengage from the coupler. any suggestions. Thanks.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:16 PM
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I'd just tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.

Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 07:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Gixster
I'd just tap it lightly with a rubber mallet.

Also, once you get the old one off, don't forget to swap the coupler over from the old pump to the new one. It may or may not stick on the shaft coming out of the motor. There is a ring on the outside of the coupler. Be sure to pay attention to the orientation of that relative to the motor/water pump.
.. and here is pic of the coupler orientation:



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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Ok, thanks for the reply and the tips. I will try in the morning. If I were to use two large flat prybar type bars SHOULD it just pop forward. Is it just the O rings and spline groove that is the resistance I am having.
I can wobble it up/down and side/side a 16th of an inch (guess) or at least I know it is not the gaskets holding it to the block.

Tomorrow is another day...its been on blocks 4 weeks or so and just drained it today and tried to get it removed. Can you use the old Oring but no new one came with the new pump. is the Oring specific from GM or can I take the old to Napa and size it accordingly. Thanks all, till tomorrow. Tom
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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 08:58 PM
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no, the coupler is a "slip" fit, not compression fit. This should not be a point of resistance. If you have all 6 bolts removed, I am betting that someone used some heavy duty gasket sealant on previous installation. You should be able to wiggle it up and down while pulling forward to remove. Pry bars shouldn't be needed on a job like this.....

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Old Mar 23, 2007 | 10:58 PM
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Been a while so my memory is fuzzy, but I think I had to pry on mine (factory WP with ~65k/9 years on it) quite a bit.
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 12:49 AM
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Mine was stuck as well. I broke the seal with a well-placed 2x2 stub and a couple of blows from a hammer.
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