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Hello, I finally have my 1988 back on the road after some time without it. I replaced the ecm, injectors, regulator, pump, egr valve, mat sensor, coolant sensor, egr sensor, cold start sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, iac sensor, and plugs.
My car starts right up no problems and idles about 1,200 rpm until it warms up and then it settles down to the usual 700, but it is taking longer to do this.
Upon starting the service engine soon light comes on. I proceed to drive on the highway and get it up to 2000 rpm, and it goes off. If I decrease speed it will come back on. At idle it is on. If I brake suddenly it comes back on.
Car drives fine for the most part. The idle is steady. There are no codes.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is, and why the light only shuts off at highway speeds with rpms over 1900?
Chris: Consider posting this in the tech section as a lot of good people are there and may be able to help you. I do not have a clue what is going on with your car.....sorry!
Hello, I finally have my 1988 back on the road after some time without it. I replaced the ecm, injectors, regulator, pump, egr valve, mat sensor, coolant sensor, egr sensor, cold start sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, iac sensor, and plugs.
My car starts right up no problems and idles about 1,200 rpm until it warms up and then it settles down to the usual 700, but it is taking longer to do this.
Upon starting the service engine soon light comes on. I proceed to drive on the highway and get it up to 2000 rpm, and it goes off. If I decrease speed it will come back on. At idle it is on. If I brake suddenly it comes back on.
Car drives fine for the most part. The idle is steady. There are no codes.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is, and why the light only shuts off at highway speeds with rpms over 1900?
Thank you,
Chris
When you attempt to flash the codes on your car, do you at least get the code 12? You should get six code 12s in a row if you have "no codes" and lack of that could possibly indicate an ECM failure.
Scan and datalog it at idle until the SES light comes on then a bit more.
That should capture what is causing the issue.
Sounds like whatever it is the closed/low throttle is key to making it happen.
When you attempt to flash the codes on your car, do you at least get the code 12? You should get six code 12s in a row if you have "no codes" and lack of that could possibly indicate an ECM failure.
Yes, I do get code 12. I haven't purchased the Turbo Link cable and software yet to scan it.
As soon as I find out more, I will report back with my findings.
From: Sacramento, CA Money can't buy happiness - but it's more comfortable to cry in a Corvette than a Yugo.
Originally Posted by 1988redvette
Hello, I finally have my 1988 back on the road after some time without it. I replaced the ecm, injectors, regulator, pump, egr valve, mat sensor, coolant sensor, egr sensor, cold start sensor, oxygen sensor, throttle position sensor, iac sensor, and plugs.
My car starts right up no problems and idles about 1,200 rpm until it warms up and then it settles down to the usual 700, but it is taking longer to do this.
Upon starting the service engine soon light comes on. I proceed to drive on the highway and get it up to 2000 rpm, and it goes off. If I decrease speed it will come back on. At idle it is on. If I brake suddenly it comes back on.
Car drives fine for the most part. The idle is steady. There are no codes.
Does anyone have any idea what the problem is, and why the light only shuts off at highway speeds with rpms over 1900?
Thank you,
Chris
Let's look at the symptoms you describe. The SYS light is generally on whenever you are below 2000 rpm. It comes on when you brake suddenly, (which involves rpms dropping below 2000, or all four high current taillight filimants are suddenly lighting up). No permanent code set.
This is a guess, but you might have an electrical problem that is due to poor power flow from the alternator, or power to the ECM. I would pull the ECM (pretty easy on the 88) and use some "quality" contact cleaner on all of the contacts. I suggest using some DeoxIT from Radio Shack. The DeoxIT ProGold kit has a spary cleaner and protectant. I'd also double check the cleanliness and tightness of the battery connections. Use some cleaner there as well. Check all connections to the alternator. Disconnect, clean and reconnect. All of this will take under 2 hours and cost less than $15. See if that helps.