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I don't fully agree w/ the need. I've ran both on my TPIS long tubes. Perhaps I hit closed loop a little faster with the heated unit but I checked & never seemed to drop out of closed with the stock sensor either. If you tune is good, headers are ceramic coated to keep the heat in, that exhaust is hot even at the collector of a header. Feel free to test & put your hand on mine anytime.
Of course Y-LT-MV.
IMHO... if I had to do it over, I wouldn't bother.
Even living in hot Texas, my car would go open loop at idle. It would start smelling like gas. Put scanner just to see. Went with heated o2's and never had problem again. It was an easy fix.
Even living in hot Texas, my car would go open loop at idle. It would start smelling like gas. Put scanner just to see. Went with heated o2's and never had problem again. It was an easy fix.
Even living in hot Texas, my car would go open loop at idle. It would start smelling like gas. Put scanner just to see. Went with heated o2's and never had problem again. It was an easy fix.
That sounds exactly like what i want to do. prevent it from going back to open after it goes in to closed on startup. What sensor do i get? running a stock 88 O2 now?? thanks
With my new Hedman longtubes, I mounted a stock replacement O2 sensor in the #7 primary tube (roughly 10" from header flange, like stock), after welding a bung for it to thread into. Works fine.