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Atleast the T5 was designed, in some aspect, to have a mount at the tailshaft. In a Camaro, the T5 tailshaft mount takes much the same twisting force as in the C4.
No, it does not because the CAMARO application USES the mount pad....that was the point I was trying to make. So now you are eliminating a mount point, do that in the Camaro and the transmission smashes up against the floor. It was just a point to bring up since as I said the factory cases cracked. The T5 extension cannot be compared to the beef of a TKO, ZF, or factory casting.
There is no float in this application, and unlike the Camaro it must be locked solid. I'm am not saying it won't work, but its just a point to consider.
Interesting point Paul (5Speeds). I'm glad that you added to this thread.
I wonder if a strut rod(s) would be of any benifit? (Similar to struts found on 4WD transfer case to transmission assemblies). 'Not sure where to mount them though, where it would actually help take some of the torsional stress.
Years ago on the S-10 T5's there was a lower fin on the tail that reinforcement straps bolted to that "V"'d out into the bell. The idea was to keep the assembly from twisting. Something like this may help, but the cracking problem existed on the factory 4+3 anyway. People always thought it was just a bolt leaking on the bottom of the case mid section, but actually the case would crack at that point and oil would like around the gasket and out of the crack.
Any one who has a gear lube leak at where the OD unit meets the adapter basically has a cracked section.
Years ago on the S-10 T5's there was a lower fin on the tail that reinforcement straps bolted to that "V"'d out into the bell. The idea was to keep the assembly from twisting. Something like this may help, but the cracking problem existed on the factory 4+3 anyway. People always thought it was just a bolt leaking on the bottom of the case mid section, but actually the case would crack at that point and oil would like around the gasket and out of the crack.
Any one who has a gear lube leak at where the OD unit meets the adapter basically has a cracked section.
Hmmm, that ma actually explain my current gear oil leak in my 4+3. It's leakin' out somewhere, and I think it's between the sections. Is the 4-speed part cracked or the OD part? OD still works...
Tak some brake cleaner and clean up the mid section casting. Its usually dead enter on the bottom. The casting is thin there and cracks from flex..
The fix is simple actually. When I use to rebuild those units, there are 2 12 point bolts that fasten the adapter housing to the 4 speed ( inside). The gasket basically seals the upper portion of the lower hole, but doesn't surround the complete bolt hole. So when it cracks the oil goes into the hole and out the bottom.
What I did was after every 4 speed rebuild was fill the hole with epoxy BEFORE bolting on the OD, so in the event it ever did crack the oil could never leak out.
You would need to pull the trans, remove the OD and seal the hole and of course use a new gasket.
I'm most of the way through this. Cutting is done, and the trans went in for test fitting. I'm currently waiting on a stupid little plastic thing I lost while swapping out the tailshaft.
I'm most of the way through this. Cutting is done, and the trans went in for test fitting. I'm currently waiting on a stupid little plastic thing I lost while swapping out the tailshaft.
Did you get around to test mounting the shifter? Curious how it feels.
I thought it was a little high, until I got the ZF6. Seems as if GM designed these to shift like dump trucks.
Nah, I haven't finished cutting the side out of the console yet (the part still attached to the car, not the shifter cover part). I'm gonna snap pics of the shifter and the patching when I get back on track so you can add pics of a 4+3 tunnel to your writeup. It's different than the auto tunnel.
The dealer is supposedly getting me the T5 part I lost, but it won't be here til late this week (which means probably next week). Ah, well, that'll teach me. You might wanna add a pic of the oiler thingy to your writeup and tell people to make sure they look after it
Hey Joe, been meaning to ask, I picked up a "Spectre" rubber boot (cheap chinese copy of a hurst boot). The large one. The trans sits off to one side of the hole I've made in the tunnel. I should center the boot over where the stick actually sits when in neutral, not over the center of the trans, right? Otherwise the boot will always be cocked way to the left and might make the sifter hard to hit 1st in.
Still gotta find me a 'Stang lever and ball. No junkyards around here got one. What year/model am I looking for?
Nah, I haven't finished cutting the side out of the console yet (the part still attached to the car, not the shifter cover part). I'm gonna snap pics of the shifter and the patching when I get back on track so you can add pics of a 4+3 tunnel to your writeup. It's different than the auto tunnel.
The dealer is supposedly getting me the T5 part I lost, but it won't be here til late this week (which means probably next week). Ah, well, that'll teach me. You might wanna add a pic of the oiler thingy to your writeup and tell people to make sure they look after it
Hey Joe, been meaning to ask, I picked up a "Spectre" rubber boot (cheap chinese copy of a hurst boot). The large one. The trans sits off to one side of the hole I've made in the tunnel. I should center the boot over where the stick actually sits when in neutral, not over the center of the trans, right? Otherwise the boot will always be cocked way to the left and might make the sifter hard to hit 1st in.
Still gotta find me a 'Stang lever and ball. No junkyards around here got one. What year/model am I looking for?
I'd sit it wherever it won't interfere with the shifter. I was going to put t over the shifter so the slot was inline with the center of the shifter base. The movement is less closer to the shifter base, so I imagine it wouldn't tug on the boot as much there.
Pix will be nice. I get emails all the time about this swap. It's becoming popular.