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I'm trying to remove my rear wheel hub but the nut won't budge. I got one side off easily, but the other is on way to tight. I've sprayed WD-40 on it and used about a 4 foot long ratchet for leverage but it won't move. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? Could somthing be wrong causing it to be so tight. I checked my FSM and it states to tighten the nut to 164lbs. The nut is torqued way more then 164lbs!! Should I be worrying about this? Thanks!
WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" formula really not too good at helping to loosen nuts/bolts. Try "PB Blaster", spray it on and let it sit over night then loosen. This should work, especially with a 4 foot helper bar to give you additional leverage.
If that doesn't work, then you have a problem. You will have to cut it off. Use a cut off wheel to slice it in a couple of places and then a cold chisel to see if you can split the nut.
I'm trying to remove my rear wheel hub but the nut won't budge. I got one side off easily, but the other is on way to tight. I've sprayed WD-40on it and used about a 4 foot long ratchet for leverage but it won't move. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? Could somthing be wrong causing it to be so tight. I checked my FSM and it states to tighten the nut to 164lbs. The nut is torqued way more then 164lbs!! Should I be worrying about this? Thanks!
Not to be rude, but you are untightening and not tightening? Assuming you're twisting in the correct direction...Age and rust will do that. Might want to try a different penetrant vs WD40. Other than that....more leverage.
I had one that took a breaker bar plus a 6' steel pipe to pop it free.
WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" formula really not too good at helping to loosen nuts/bolts. Try "PB Blaster", spray it on and let it sit over night then loosen. This should work, especially with a 4 foot helper bar to give you additional leverage.
If that doesn't work, then you have a problem. You will have to cut it off. Use a cut off wheel to slice it in a couple of places and then a cold chisel to see if you can split the nut.
Well I tried WD-40 and all these other bolt out sprays, but no luck.
Take the car to a tire store and let them use a impact wrench then tighten the nut just enough to get you home. When I did mine one nut came off by hand.
I ended up having to use my impact wrench and my dad biting into the socket with a Rigid pipe wrench on the socket w/ a 3 foot cheater bar. It actually popped off REALLY fast doing it that way after breaking two breaker bars on it w/ previous attempts.
Take the car to a tire store and let them use a impact wrench then tighten the nut just enough to get you home. When I did mine one nut came off by hand.
Even if they charge you a few dollars it's worth it. You're not struggling anymore.
Just get it to a local tire shop and have one of their workers quickly loosen it with an air gun. Have them tighten it back on enough to get you home. Then resume your work. On my other car, I struggled trying to break loose an extremely tight hub nut on one side. I think it gets this tight because of the direction of the threads. That's the reason bicycles have left hand threads on the pedal cranks. I had a 7 foot steel beam cranking over a 3 foot breaker bar and still wouldn't budge. Tried PB Blaster, tapping with a hammer etc. Nothing worked. The breaker bar was bending at an extreme amount. I said "Fk this" and gave up. Drove to the nearest tire shop. The guy took it off in about half a second with an air gun and for free. I felt like an idiot for not doing that sooner.
i just did this whole job using a 60 dollar electric impact wrench from j c whitley. no sweet at all.....except fred beans sending the bearing for my 05 not my 90.....them trying to fix my mistake that wasn't a mistake....lol! i got the axel bolt and all six flang bolts with this method. made it very EASY FOR A JOB THAT GM WANTED 1800.00 TO DO!
I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 3 foot extention on the breaker bar. That's about 4-5 feet of pure leverage. I thought the Vette was going to do a wheelie.