C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Rear Wheel Hub

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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Default Rear Wheel Hub

I'm trying to remove my rear wheel hub but the nut won't budge. I got one side off easily, but the other is on way to tight. I've sprayed WD-40 on it and used about a 4 foot long ratchet for leverage but it won't move. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? Could somthing be wrong causing it to be so tight. I checked my FSM and it states to tighten the nut to 164lbs. The nut is torqued way more then 164lbs!! Should I be worrying about this? Thanks!

Last edited by jimmers; Apr 2, 2007 at 11:45 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:44 PM
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WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" formula really not too good at helping to loosen nuts/bolts. Try "PB Blaster", spray it on and let it sit over night then loosen. This should work, especially with a 4 foot helper bar to give you additional leverage.

If that doesn't work, then you have a problem. You will have to cut it off. Use a cut off wheel to slice it in a couple of places and then a cold chisel to see if you can split the nut.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmers
I'm trying to remove my rear wheel hub but the nut won't budge. I got one side off easily, but the other is on way to tight. I've sprayed WD-40on it and used about a 4 foot long ratchet for leverage but it won't move. Any ideas on how to get this thing off? Could somthing be wrong causing it to be so tight. I checked my FSM and it states to tighten the nut to 164lbs. The nut is torqued way more then 164lbs!! Should I be worrying about this? Thanks!

Not to be rude, but you are untightening and not tightening? Assuming you're twisting in the correct direction...Age and rust will do that. Might want to try a different penetrant vs WD40. Other than that....more leverage.

I had one that took a breaker bar plus a 6' steel pipe to pop it free.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by John A. Marker
WD-40 is a "Water Displacement" formula really not too good at helping to loosen nuts/bolts. Try "PB Blaster", spray it on and let it sit over night then loosen. This should work, especially with a 4 foot helper bar to give you additional leverage.

If that doesn't work, then you have a problem. You will have to cut it off. Use a cut off wheel to slice it in a couple of places and then a cold chisel to see if you can split the nut.
Well I tried WD-40 and all these other bolt out sprays, but no luck.
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Old Apr 2, 2007 | 11:58 PM
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Take the car to a tire store and let them use a impact wrench then tighten the nut just enough to get you home. When I did mine one nut came off by hand.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 12:10 AM
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I ended up having to use my impact wrench and my dad biting into the socket with a Rigid pipe wrench on the socket w/ a 3 foot cheater bar. It actually popped off REALLY fast doing it that way after breaking two breaker bars on it w/ previous attempts.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 03:30 AM
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Default Why struggle? Do this.

Originally Posted by Jonnymac
Take the car to a tire store and let them use a impact wrench then tighten the nut just enough to get you home. When I did mine one nut came off by hand.


Even if they charge you a few dollars it's worth it. You're not struggling anymore.

Just get it to a local tire shop and have one of their workers quickly loosen it with an air gun. Have them tighten it back on enough to get you home. Then resume your work. On my other car, I struggled trying to break loose an extremely tight hub nut on one side. I think it gets this tight because of the direction of the threads. That's the reason bicycles have left hand threads on the pedal cranks. I had a 7 foot steel beam cranking over a 3 foot breaker bar and still wouldn't budge. Tried PB Blaster, tapping with a hammer etc. Nothing worked. The breaker bar was bending at an extreme amount. I said "Fk this" and gave up. Drove to the nearest tire shop. The guy took it off in about half a second with an air gun and for free. I felt like an idiot for not doing that sooner.

Last edited by 86PACER; Apr 3, 2007 at 03:39 AM.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 07:59 AM
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I guess I will have to take it in somewhere because i've tried everything else. I already broke one socket extension. Thanks everyone!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:02 AM
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If you are replacing the wheel bearing, put some heat to it. Mapp gas gets it done most times.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Pete K
If you are replacing the wheel bearing, put some heat to it. Mapp gas gets it done most times.
Thats a good idea, I never thought of that. I guess I wasn't paying attention in science class for all those years! I'll give it a try tonight!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 06:18 PM
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i just did this whole job using a 60 dollar electric impact wrench from j c whitley. no sweet at all.....except fred beans sending the bearing for my 05 not my 90.....them trying to fix my mistake that wasn't a mistake....lol! i got the axel bolt and all six flang bolts with this method. made it very EASY FOR A JOB THAT GM WANTED 1800.00 TO DO!
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 08:51 PM
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I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a 3 foot extention on the breaker bar. That's about 4-5 feet of pure leverage. I thought the Vette was going to do a wheelie.
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Old Apr 3, 2007 | 09:29 PM
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I finally got it off!!! I heated it up for a good 10 minutes, and it finally gave. Thanks for the help everyone!
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