rabiddawg

dont forget if your gonna use full rollers youll need guideplates and hardened pushrods!

CFI-EFI

I couldn't tell from your link, but if those are the self aligning rockers, like your car came with, you didn't need the push rods. If they are non-self aligning rocker arms, I hope the push rods you ordered are the HARDENED push rods. You will need then to keep them from wearing out against the guide plates you have yet to order. See post #16 @ 1:08 PM if you need the details. You have the 113 heads.

RACE ON!!!

CFI-EFI

That isn't necessarily true. And whether they are FULL rollers it not has anything to do with it. Read the thread, That has all been covered.

RACE ON!!!

65Z01

Good point.
Are those "stamped rockers" self-aligning or not?
What comes with the "kit"?
It won't hurt to preplace the push rods, what length RP did you order?

BADDUCK

On this kind of upgrade on a 1989 motor all you need is FULL roller rockers and LT4 springs. You can get full aluminum RR's from a reputable supplier for about $230. You can get LT4 springs from GMPP for $30. You don't need new pushrods. Spend the money on the things that have the most impact. Buying roller tip only stamped RR's and hardened pushrods is a waste of time and money IMO.

CFI-EFI

Since vetteman8924 never would say, I went to the trouble to check out the rocker arms. They ARE self aligning. It appears the "kit" is the rocker arms and the (unneeded) push rods. The unnecessary push rods won't hurt a thing, but unless he knows he has problems with the existing push rods, they were a needless expense. Hopefully he won't have to buy yet another set, to correct any geometry problems. The GOOD news is that they are the self aligning rockers and he doesn't need to buy anything else to "adapt" them.


Not really. The bearings (rollers) DO reduce the friction, but especially for this application they would show no increase in performance. In fact for $100.00 less than he spent, he could have bought plain, stamped steel rockers, without the roller tip.

RACE ON!!!

BADDUCK

You misunderstood my statement or took it out of context. The point was, with the proper full roller rockers and springs you have a complete upgraded mod without need for additional parts. ie pushrods, guideplates, etc. Why would he buy what he already has. (stamped steel rockers without a roller tip).
The title of the thread indicates he wants 1.6 roller rockers not a replacement for what he already has.

65Z01

For $30 more he could get the CC ProMagnum RRs which are stronger than the Al and have lower rotating mass.

When I did my setup I Summit had a delay so I ordered from CC direct and had parts the next day.

vetteman8924

its not that i would not say i wasnt on the forum till now!! as for the pushrods why not change them when you are in to the motor changing the rockers?? well different strokes for different folks..

CFI-EFI

The point wasn't properly made. You didn't write what you were thinking. I responded to what you wrote. It was YOU the capitalized the word "FULL" in the statement, "On this kind of upgrade on a 1989 motor all you need is FULL roller rockers and LT4 springs.", stressing the, "FULL rollers" as the main point of the subject. The rollers, full or otherwise, reduce friction, which is what I wrote about following my quote of your statement. Whether the new rocker arms are self aligning or not, which you didn't address, is what dictates the need for guide plates and hardened push rods, not whether the rockers are "FULL roller" or not.



I never suggested that he might (should) buy what he already has. In case you are unaware, "stamped steel rockers without a roller tip" are also available in the 1.6:1 ratio he is looking for. These by CRANE, or these SUMMIT brand rockers. YOU are the one reading false meaning into the posts of others. Just because you don't know what I'm talking about, doesn't mean that I don't.

RACE ON!!!

BADDUCK

I think you have already proved what you don't know. You don't know much about the setup on 113 heads at all and are learning as you go. All you have done so far is muddy the waters on a very simple issue.
If you want to spend the rest of the day parsing my words go ahead, but I have been consistent with my answers regarding how I would approach the original question.
Have a nice day!

Aardwolf

Why waste the money if you don't need to?

CFI-EFI

You have a real comprehension problem. Where you quoted me, I was asking if the previously mentioned, at that time, 1988, used the 128 or the 113 heads, so I described the situation for both. I was told and I apologized for any confusion I may have caused, by unnecessarily including the 128 info. BUT, the comment, "You don't know much about the setup on 113 heads at all and are learning as you go." is totally incorrect and unfounded. I completely, accurately, and concisely, described both the 128 and 113 head set ups. Back up your accusations.

Your false accusations are only a weak attempt to draw the attention from your deficient postings.



Consistently vague, misleading, and incorrect.

RACE ON!!!

BADDUCK

Your postings are going far beyond simple hubris. I love YOUR statement that I didn't write what I was thinking. Either you consider yourself God like, or this is simply the ranting of a madman. How could you possibly know what I was thinking if I didn't say it.

I know things can seem vague if you don't understand the context of a statement. That is not my shortcoming but yours. I think you are just being mean and arguementative because that is your nature.

As usual you don't see that as a problem.

JAKE

Thanks for that information. I'd forgotten those are still being offered for sale.

Jake

JAKE

Yes, you can run them as long as they are meant for your 89 valvetrain setup. Years ago I had a problem running stamped, 1.6s on my 86E because the pushrods would bind against the slots in the iron heads that engine came with. I ended up with half a dozen or so bent pushrods.

My point is, make sure the rockers you're considering are designed for the heads you're running.

You may see an increase in power because of the additional valve lift and slight increase in camshaft duration you'll get with the 1.6s. I have to emphasize MAY, because I've never seen back to back dyno results on them.

Hope this helps.

Jake

CFI-EFI

My mistake. I was trying to give you the benefit the of doubt. What your wrote was indicative of no thinking. I was trying to give you credit for just a simple lapse. You are right in that I don't know what you were thinking, because you were incapable of communicating it. You seem convinced of ideas that you are incapable of communicating and yet you continue to try to confuse and dance around them rather than stick to the issues. I would love to stick around and challenge you to a battle of wits, but I hate to take advantage of an unarmed man. Since you seem unable to participate in a cogent conversation, I bid you adieu.

RACE ON!!!

Tom 35th anniversary

Wow!!!! Is anyone else feelin the love in here?!!!

rodj

Just to muddle the waters further , the 128's on my '87 heads were SA.
I was of the belief that all the alum head, roller cam L98's were SA.

As stated above;
regardless of what style (roller tip or full roller) you go with;
if you have SA ,you only need to buy SA rockers .
If you decide to buy NSA, you need guideplates and new pushrods

JAKE

Another wrinkle to this whole thing is that CompCams recommends that for a high performance (or some such wording) application, go with NON-self aligning rockers, guide plates and hardened pushrods.

I found it buried in some of their literature.

The problem now becomes, how do you define "high performance" or some such wording?

Now that I've recalled that info, I'm now NOT getting the CompCams 1.6SELF-aligning rockers for my LT1 but will, instead get their 1.65 NON-self aligning rockers, plates and rods.

Anyone have any experience with those?

Jake