C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1.6 roller rockers

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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 08:42 PM
  #41  
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rodj
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"Another wrinkle to this whole thing is that CompCams recommends that for a high performance (or some such wording) application, go with NON-self aligning rockers, guide plates and hardened pushrods."

I have read somewhere in the past that this is supposed to give better control over the valve train
Alignment control is in the middle rather than relying on the rocker tip to at the end.

Self aligning obviously works but you can see see it as a $$$ saving exercise from the factory as they don't have to install guideplates and hardened pushrods.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe self aligning was a factory idea , not one that came from racing experience intergrated back into production engines
Bean counters?
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 09:07 PM
  #42  
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[QUOTE=rodj;1559707204
I have read somewhere in the past that this is supposed to give better control over the valve train
Alignment control is in the middle rather than relying on the rocker tip to at the end.

Self aligning obviously works but you can see see it as a $$$ saving exercise from the factory as they don't have to install guideplates and hardened pushrods.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe self aligning was a factory idea , not one that came from racing experience intergrated back into production engines
Bean counters?[/QUOTE]

I think you've nailed it.

Jake
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Old Apr 6, 2007 | 11:32 PM
  #43  
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Default roller rockers

Um, Gentlemen,
Someone has to address the drip rails on his rocker covers. They will have to be removed. Care to argue over how to remove them or anything?
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:32 AM
  #44  
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SS409 425HP
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I am also considering buying some new rockers and came across this paragraph in John Lingenfelters book on small-block chevys.

Quote: With the advent of aluminum heads, Chevy employed the rail type rocker (also called the self-aligning rocker). This rail type rocker requires a taller valve stem tip that protrudes further above the retainer. This is important since rail rockers cannot be used on older, shorter valve stem tip engines. Neither can non-rail stamped rockers or roller rockers be used on the later heads unless hardened guideplates are employed to properly align the pushrods.

He also states, Quote: Perhaps the most misunderstood point is that the roller tip actually rolls across the valve stem tip. This is not true. Even though the roller will spin easily between your fingers, once loaded against valve spring pressure the roller merely slides across the valve stem.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 08:34 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by rodj
"Another wrinkle to this whole thing is that CompCams recommends that for a high performance (or some such wording) application, go with NON-self aligning rockers, guide plates and hardened pushrods."

I have read somewhere in the past that this is supposed to give better control over the valve train
Alignment control is in the middle rather than relying on the rocker tip to at the end.

Self aligning obviously works but you can see see it as a $$$ saving exercise from the factory as they don't have to install guideplates and hardened pushrods.
Correct me if I am wrong but I believe self aligning was a factory idea , not one that came from racing experience intergrated back into production engines
Bean counters?
Comp Cams also sells more parts if you convert to non SA RR's. 65Z01 describes how he did that in this thread. I also believe he has stated before that he got little or no HP increase from this conversion on his 1988.
It depends on what you want to accomplish. Jim races his car so he installed hardened steel parts. On the other hand these engines run 200K with SA stamped RR's from the factory.
What we got from racing, is that to improve HP you want to reduce friction, reduce weight, and increase lift in your valve train. With the 113 heads you can easily accomplish all three things by installing narrow, self aligning, 1.6 aluminum full RR's along with stouter springs. There is no need to convert to a guided setup on a street driven or lightly raced car IMO.
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 09:28 AM
  #46  
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Default Nice Rocker Arm article , Good Reading

Originally Posted by BADDUCK
Comp Cams also sells more parts if you convert to non SA RR's. 65Z01 describes how he did that in this thread. I also believe he has stated before that he got little or no HP increase from this conversion on his 1988.
It depends on what you want to accomplish. Jim races his car so he installed hardened steel parts. On the other hand these engines run 200K with SA stamped RR's from the factory.
What we got from racing, is that to improve HP you want to reduce friction, reduce weight, and increase lift in your valve train. With the 113 heads you can easily accomplish all three things by installing narrow, self aligning, 1.6 aluminum full RR's along with stouter springs. There is no need to convert to a guided setup on a street driven or lightly raced car IMO.


Hey Guys ,
Here is very nice article for anyone who is interested on this subject of "Rocker Arms"


http://www.compcams.com/Community/Ar...p?ID=153327675

I have used "Comp Cams" products for many years and like them very much , not trying to promote anyone manuf.

Desert
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Old Apr 7, 2007 | 03:36 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by coupeguy2001
Um, Gentlemen,
Someone has to address the drip rails on his rocker covers. They will have to be removed. Care to argue over how to remove them or anything?
I tried it two different ways on my 86's covers.

First I tried breaking them off with a pair of pliars. All was going well for the first few, then I broke one that caused a nice little hole in the valve cover.

So from then on it was High Speed grinder time.

Jake
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