And that'd be enough to do it. 
Alternator Connection
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Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Port Angeles WA
Alternator Connection
I had to replace the alternator plug-in connecter on my 92 LT1. The new plug (CS-130, $60 from the dealer) came with four wires while the original plug only had three. Although the new plug matches the receptacle in the alternator, there seems to be two of the connections that aren’t needed. I’m having trouble figuring out which combination is the right one. You'd think I'd have a 50% chance of getting it right. The alternator light and or SERVICE ENGINE SOON light keep coming on. Thanks for any help!
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From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
Anyway, there should be a terminal within the plug that is slightly larger and spaced apart from the rest. This is where the red wire goes. This may be marked with an S on the connector too, the original is.
Next to it goes the brown wire to the F terminal if so marked and then another brown wire to the L terminal. The last, or P terminal is not used.
The brown wire that is only powered in the "run" position is the one that goes next to the red wire. If it has no power on it with the key in the run position, check your valet fuse.
This is all from my '95 schematic but I'm betting it's the same for yours.
I'm unclear on this but it appears as if the other brown wire may be powered at all times, so take note of that when checking them.
Last edited by Corvette Kid; Apr 7, 2007 at 01:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 120
Likes: 0
From: Port Angeles WA
This confuses me. The original had three wires, the replacement has four but two aren't needed?
Anyway, there should be a terminal within the plug that is slightly larger and spaced apart from the rest. This is where the red wire goes. This may be marked with an S on the connector too, the original is.
Next to it goes the brown wire to the F terminal if so marked and then another brown wire to the L terminal. The last, or P terminal is not used.
The brown wire that is only powered in the "run" position is the one that goes next to the red wire. If it has no power on it with the key in the run position, check your valet fuse.
This is all from my '95 schematic but I'm betting it's the same for yours.
I'm unclear on this but it appears as if the other brown wire may be powered at all times, so take note of that when checking them.
Anyway, there should be a terminal within the plug that is slightly larger and spaced apart from the rest. This is where the red wire goes. This may be marked with an S on the connector too, the original is.
Next to it goes the brown wire to the F terminal if so marked and then another brown wire to the L terminal. The last, or P terminal is not used.
The brown wire that is only powered in the "run" position is the one that goes next to the red wire. If it has no power on it with the key in the run position, check your valet fuse.
This is all from my '95 schematic but I'm betting it's the same for yours.
I'm unclear on this but it appears as if the other brown wire may be powered at all times, so take note of that when checking them.
I went back and studied it some more and found that it was the last wire in the row that wasn’t needed. I reconnected the two wires. Now it’s indicating that it’s charging and the alternator light doesn’t come on. However, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light still comes on. I read in the Haynes manual that CS alternators from 92 on should not be disassembled. They should be sent to someone more qualified than myself to be worked on. Could this cause the SES light to come on?
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
I can't see where an alternator or it's wiring should cause a SES light except possibly indirectly if your system voltage is not back up to normal yet because the battery's not at full charge. This could possibly be causing a sensor or two to read out of range much like a poor connection would. Do you have a way to read your codes?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 120
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From: Port Angeles WA
I can't see where an alternator or it's wiring should cause a SES light except possibly indirectly if your system voltage is not back up to normal yet because the battery's not at full charge. This could possibly be causing a sensor or two to read out of range much like a poor connection would. Do you have a way to read your codes?
I'm not sure what I did but the SES light finally went out. I did disconnect the battery and then reconnect it and I found a loose vacuum hose??
No way to read codes. I'm going to have to invest in a code reader if I keep this car.
I'm going to take it for a test drive to see if it's fixed.
Thanks for the help!
Large Impressive Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 65,811
Likes: 71
From: Good health is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die
St. Jude Donor '04-'05-'06-'07
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