C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 10:39 PM
  #1  
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Default Squeak

I have a 1990 coupe and I'm getting a sqeak from the rear passenger side of the car when I press the throttle in. It sounded like a break pad squeak at first but it stops when i push the break pedal. The sound is louder and more noticeable when I start and gets softer and faster as I speed up. Does this sound like anything obvious???
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Old Apr 11, 2007 | 11:11 PM
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probably the wheel bearing
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 01:10 AM
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Default bearing


I have an almost new one for $100 in you are interested. PM me if you want it
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 08:59 AM
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Default

Jack that corner up. Place your hands at 12 and 6 o'clock. Rock back and forth to see how much play there is. There should be only a tiny bit of play. Any significant wobble and your bearing is shot. Very common.
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Old Apr 12, 2007 | 11:18 PM
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Default squeak

hi, i had a similar squeak on my 1986 vette in the left rear. i thought it was the wheel bearing and so i changed it. the squeak did not go away. then i thought it was a u-joint so i checked all of them and none were bad. then i did a search and found out about a special washer that goes between the bearing and the drive shaft splined shaft that interfaces with the bearing. this washer has a special coating on it and had worn off over time. i ordered a few from chevrolet and replaced that washer and i have not had the squeak any more. hope this is the simple fix for you. they only cost about $5.00 each.
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 12:50 AM
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Default so i found out what it was

It is the U Joints i believe. i took your advice Red Guts and checked the play in the wheel and there was almost none. i took it over to my dad's house and the first thing out of his mouth was "you need to check your universal joints on that thing. It sound like it's gonna fall apart!" So does anyone know where i can get a good one for cheap?
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Old Apr 14, 2007 | 01:39 AM
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Default U joints

Any auto parts store can help you with them
U joints come in three flavors. Generic, the center of the crosses are drilled, and have places to store grease and may break under WOT. Normal use, they should last 60,000 miles. grease them once in a while you should be ok. Cost $15-$20 bucks
High performance where the hole in the center of the crosses are a lot smaller, giving more metal to the part, yielding better strength. There is sufficient area to store grease, and you should grease them on installation, and every 10,000 miles. cost $20- $30
There is the racing ones that have no hole, and you have to keep greasing them to make them live since they have no grease reservoir.
Cost the same as the middle grade. You can get them from Jeg's or Summit racing.
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 12:24 AM
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Default Thanks

Thanks Y'all for all the info and advice. I got both U-Joints on the passenger side replaced; bought the generic u-joints for $10.88 a piece at advance auto(mainly because thats all they had in stock and tomorrow is Sunday-corvette driving day). It took me about six hours to complete start to finish including time to go to advance auto and pick up the parts. I think that's pretty good considering that was my first major project on the car.

~Stu~

Last edited by bigstu2203; Apr 15, 2007 at 12:32 AM. Reason: punctuation & spelling
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:15 AM
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Default stu

Hey Stu,
you can put your shirt back on now
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Old Apr 15, 2007 | 01:33 AM
  #10  
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From: Taylors SC
Default shirt

Well I do work on her without a shirt but since the work is done for now I suppose I could put some clothes on... It gets warm when you work on a car this hot :o
I've been meaning to change the pic anyway... just got her back from getting a brand new paint job for Easter. Maybe I'll take some new ones when it stops raining.

Last edited by bigstu2203; Apr 15, 2007 at 01:36 AM.
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