Well I ordered a new shortblock from Golen Engines. Its a 383 forged crank, H beam rods, and forged -34cc dished pistons. It has 4 bolt billet caps, but they are not splayed.
The cam they recommended is a custom blower cam with the following specs. .531 & .568 lift. 214 & 224 duration, and 115 degree lobe sep.
The heads I have will be reused. They have the larger valves already and the flow numbers are as follows
Lift int. exh.
.100 60 55
.200 125 111
.300 187 155
.400 230 187
.500 263 207
.550 258 211
.600 253 215

I plan to reuse my current exhaust system which is EM headers (1&3/4) stock exhaust with magnaflow mufflers. Still have the stock resonator in place and hope to get that replaced with a x pipe.

I have a 52mm throttle body to put on, but I wonder if I should go with a 58mm version?

I plan to reuse my electric water pump providing it will clear the supercharger. If not, then its back to a mechanical drive water pump.

The supercharger kit I have, I purchased used. Its a vortech kit with a s trim blower. It came with a FMU and a timing retard box. At this time I plan to use the FMU and the timing box, but I would like to hear opinions on this.

I purchased a set of 30lb ford injectors prior to deciding to go with the SC setup. I dont know it they will be large enough or not. I know if I do not use the FMU they will be way too small.

I plan to use a meth kit, probably one of Greg's at Blower Works.

Lastly, I am up in the air about sticking with the standard 6 rib setup that vortech uses, or getting the upgrade from Greg to a 8 rib setup. I may have to wait and do that latter, due to money.

Golen, sells a complete blower motor. It uses the shortblock and cam I ordered. But he uses Lloyd Elliot heads (LE2) They claim that with a 58mm TB Headers, and a procharger making 12lbs boost, it made 700hp and 670 tq. Keep in mind that is on a engine dyno.
I have no idea how mine will compair, due to a different blower and not sure how the heads compair, but I hope to get close to that, eventually!!

Look forward to hearing what everyone thinks and suggestions on what to do different.

 

Sounds like a great combo. Chad built my motor and is a great guy to deal with. Helped me iron out all the details and even came into work on the weekend to let me drop parts of and pick the motor up. I have yet to put it in the car, but it should be interesting. As far as recommendations go, I would talk to him and Alvin as they both know what they are doing. I have also spoken with Greg and he is also a great person to deal. It sounds like you have a good group of people making this happen.

Good luck with it and keep us posted!

 

That cam looks very similar to mine, with a wider LSA...

 

Are you still subjected to emissions testing in VA?

I'd like to see this set-ups results. I'm planning on an engine swap w/a Golen short block or attempt a stroker build my own late this fall.

 

Sounds like a beast in the making! Please post pics of the build-up if you get a chance.

 

Blackrose, Chad has been very helpful. He offered to give me the cam grind no. to save a little money, but I choose to get it from him. He has it on the shelf, so it will come with the motor. He told me he would help me with the part nos. for the other needed parts, ie head gaskets, etc. and he offered any other assistance he could give, ie. walking me through problems or answering questions on the phone as they arrive.

Alvin, well lets just say I am one of his no. 1 fans. He really knows how to tune a car! I told Chad, I planned to have Alvin tune it, and he spoke highly of him as well. By the way, I have already sent Alvin an e-mail to look over my plans.

I have no experience with Greg yet, but everything I have heard has been positive. I expect nothing less.

 

Yes, I have emissions testing. I have passed with my existing setup in my signature. I would expect this to pass easier then my existing setup due to the cam having less duration.
Actually I thought the cam was a little small, but Golen has proven it makes power.

 

Chad is a stand up guy. He gave me his cell phone number and told me to call him when I'm ready to start it up for the first time so he can help me double check everything over the phone. He does have a nice parts room with tons of parts.

Alvin is currently working on my tune. Chad recommended I go with the Burn1 from Moates so Alvin can just email me bins. Alvin agreed it would be a great idea considering my more than mild combo. You may want to look into this also.

My experience with Greg was very good. I had bought a Racetronix Fuel Pump and Wiring Kit off of the forum and wasn't sure how to install it. I gave him a call, he gave me a link to his instructions for it, and talked me through the wiring install and answered any other questions I had.

 

What happened to the old motor? Hope you do your own install work, it gets awfully expensive paying pros to do it all.

 

Its still running. But im getting blow by.
The reason im doing just the shortblock is due to labor rates around here.

 

I would get a 58mm TB, and at least 42lb injectors with that setup.

 

You should have posted this in the FI section.
I say play with what you have then you will know what you really need.

If your goal are 700hp you will definitely need at least 8 rib (if not cog) with a bigger crank pulley, new injectors, new fuel system, T trim or YSI trim, and maybe aftermarket ECM.
If you want to keep those heads you will need to shove a lot of boost thru them to make the power.

What kind of Head gasket are you going to run?

 

Yes, I wonder about that as well. The only reason I felt I may be able to get by with the 30lb injectors is due to using a FMU and the meth kit, both would help compensate for the smaller size.

 

Eventually 700 flywheel hp would be nice but I really dont expect anyways near that.
I plan to use these heads for awhile and eventually upgrade to something such as trickflow.
The gasket will be determined by Golen. The block is o-ringed and Chad recommended Felpro, but I do not know what part number.

 

Dump the FMU, all it causes is grief. In some cases when the pressure spikes high from the FMU it can actually cause the injectors to lock up and cause the engine to lean out. This usually happens in cases where disc style injectors are used. They can't handle high pressure spikes. The other issue is that a FMU is often not repeatable in its pressure control. Your best bet is to get larger injectors and program the ECM properly for the application. If you stay under 8 PSI you can get away with 42s, if you plan on higher boost then use a set of 60s. The other issue is getting enough Hp into the blower to make boost, if you have a stock S trim with its 6 rib belt you will be lucky to get 6 PSI out of it. They rate that boost level on a unmodified LT1. If you build a larger more efficient engine with higher flowing heads, cam and exhaust, then its going to have to spin faster to make up for the new found efficiencies. And with a 6 rib that won't happen.

I have a cogged drive in my car that makes easily 12 PSI on a S trim, but at that level its way off its efficiency curve so I run it at 8 PSI here in Oregon, in New Mexico I got away with the higher levels because of the altitude. For a sea level 383 I use Gregs 8 rib design on a T trim where I can make 12 to 14 and make 620+ to the rear wheels. At that level I suspect its at 800+ at the crank, figuring 100HP drivetrain losses, and 100HP to drive the blower at that level. It is basically at the T trims rated maximum power level. Its a brute of an engine to drive on the street boost hits quick and hard.

 

Nice list Richard
Guess I will have to be pushing the button soon to stay ahead